The wait is over. As you may know, the Rheingau chapter of the VDP has mandated that its top dry wines may only be released on, or after, the first of September two years after harvest. With that day finally here, the 2023 Kiedrich Gräfenberg GG is at last available, an opportunity not to be missed if you didn’t buy on pre-release. Weil’s Gräfenberg Grosses Gewächs is simply a stunning dry Riesling from a note-perfect vintage. A diamond. Robert Weil himself considers it one for the finest wines he has bottled, which it says all, really. Twenty-twenty-three was a best-of-both-worlds kind of year for this address. It’s a vintage where ripe and fleshy fruit is perfectly counterbalanced by visceral, cool-climate energy and mouthwatering structure—low pHs and high tartaric were also a feature of the year. You could say Weil’s 2023s are a distillation of the best elements of 2021 and 2022. And they only become finer, more luminous and overtly mineral as you scale the heights of the remarkable eye-of-the-needle purity and mineral steel of the Gräfenberg Grosses Gewächs. Bottled at just 12.5%, the 2023 release is an outrageously exciting wine that will blow drinkers away for decades to come: the reviews below can fill in the details. We’re sure our wine-loving descendants will look back and say that we were lucky to live in an era when somebody could still purchase a wine of this quality for half the price of a Premier Cru white Burgundy!