Girlan

Wines with Altitude: New Releases from the Italian Mountains…
Girlan

For all its riches, Alto Adige remains one of Italy’s most quietly compelling wine regions. Set amid the sawtooth limestone peaks of South Tyrol, this region’s wine culture has more in common with the neighbouring Austria and Germany than the rest of Italy. These influences, combined with cool alpine altitudes and rocky soils, shape wines of striking clarity and precision: mineral-driven, mouth-watering whites and finely structured, vibrant reds defined by freshness rather than weight. They are wines that speak directly to modern tastes, where tension, drinkability and definition matter more than power. 


 “Innovation and a pioneering spirit have driven this historic Oltradige winery since its beginnings in 1923. The winery and cellarmaster Gerhard Kofler play a significant role in the Alto Adige winemaking and vineyard scenario. These are all major wines with great technique and personality.” Gambero Rosso


Girlan was founded a century ago as a small co-operative winery with 23 growers on their books. Now, under Gerhard Kofler and Oscar Lorandi, Girlan has crafted a cast-iron reputation as one of the region’s standard bearers. In a region that produces many outstanding wines, the finest of which deservedly sit at the upper end of the market, Girlan stands out for offering a level of quality and regional expression that remains increasingly rare. Grounded in long-established traditions, these are wines whose calibre consistently outpaces their positioning. 

The Wines

Girlan IGT Vigneti delle Dolomiti 448 Bianco 2023
Girlan IGT Vigneti delle Dolomiti 448 Bianco 2023
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Girlan IGT Vigneti delle Dolomiti 448 Bianco 2023

This juicy, drink-now aromatic white is a well-judged blend of 45% Pinot Bianco with the remainder split between Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. All the fruit is grown at 448 metres (hence the name) on the mineral-rich hillside vineyards of Alto Adige's Cornaiano canton. The name not only refers to the altitude of the source vineyards but also to a local expression: “448” or “quattro quattro otto” is a local saying for “hurry up.” So, there's a bit of Tyrolean wordplay going on here! 

This is delicious—an aromatic, juicy wine that’s perfect for drinking over the warmer months. It is a crunchy, fresh, blend for drinking any time of the day or night. Similarly weighted to a Loire or Savoie white, it's an airy, energetic wine with aromas of juicy pear, white peach and sliced apple. The palate is tangy and refreshing, then juicy and textural as it builds in the glass. The lovely grippy close is deliciously pure and mouthwateringly clean. An excellent pouring option—it doesn’t miss a beat.


Girlan IGT Vigneti delle Dolomiti 448 Bianco 2023
Girlan IGT Vigneti delle Dolomiti 448 Bianco 2023
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Girlan Alto Adige Pinot Bianco 2024
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Girlan Alto Adige Pinot Bianco 2024

Like most producers in Alto Adige who want to sell some wine on the international market, Girlan makes a Pinot Grigio. It’s a good wine, but the truth is that this producer’s Pinot Bianco is miles more interesting—in our humble opinion. It is drawn from hand-picked fruit on Alto Adige’s mineral-rich hillsides of Cornaiano at altitudes ranging from 450 to 500 metres. The juice fermented in tank, with 10% going through malolactic conversion to add some flesh to the wine's cool Alpine bones. The weight and texture here are pinpoint; it’s a racy, pulpy, kaffir-lime, apple and spiced pastry-scented quencher with lovely, pithy minerality and a zesty Alpine tang on the finish. Another genuine bargain from this over-delivering outfit.
Girlan Alto Adige Pinot Bianco 2024
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Girlan IGT Vigneti delle Dolomiti 448 Rosso 2024
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Girlan IGT Vigneti delle Dolomiti 448 Rosso 2024

From a vintage built on supple, vibrant fruit and juicy tannins, the 448 Rosso is drawn from grapes grown at around 448 metres above sea level in the Alto Adige. It's crafted from a blend of two indigenous Südtirol varieties—Lagrein and Schiava—along with Pinot Nero. The latter has shown a particular affinity for the terroirs of Alto Adige. The Lagrein comes from deep, sandy soils in the Bassa Atesina (a warmer terroir, ideal for ripening this variety). The Pinot Nero and Schiava are grown on the hillsides of Cornaiano in sunny, well-aerated vineyards. Raised in a mix of tank, barrels and concrete, the 2024 is a cool, fleshy and juby Alpine red steeped in flavours of red berries, cherry and red plums with a lick of herb and spice. It is all neatly folded within the fine, juicy texture—Alpine Beaujolais, anyone? 
Girlan IGT Vigneti delle Dolomiti 448 Rosso 2024
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Girlan Alto Adige Lagrein 2024
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Girlan Alto Adige Lagrein 2024

At its best, Lagrein can produce some of Alto Adige’s most striking reds, and this is one such example. Drawn from vineyards within the sandy Bassa Atesina terroir (a canton of the mountainous Südtiroler Unterland), this fine example was raised in large wooden barrels and concrete vats for five months. It’s a cracking red with an enticing push-pull of sweet summer berries, savoury spice and meadow sage notes. That same exuberance plays out on the fleshy palate featuring floral-scented fruit and lively freshness. There’s also a nice twist of juicy-ripe tannins that will meld beautifully with the right food (grilled and roasted meats, game and various hard cheeses would be an excellent start). 


Girlan Alto Adige Lagrein 2024
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