Massolino

Barolo 2021 and the Great Vigna Rionda
Massolino

With the 2021 vintage in Barolo being hailed as a "landmark" by James Suckling and "superb" by Antonio Galloni of Vinous, it's no wonder that our first shipment of the 2021s from Massolino sold out swifly. Happily, we have been able to obtain a second small shipment of Massolino's classic Barolo, including magnums and half bottles. If you missed out last year or have realised you need more, now's the time to stock up.

This offer also includes three vintages of Massolino's legendary Vigna Rionda Riserva. These wines are destined for a long life in the cellar, and are a must for serious Nebbiolo lovers. 

Massolino Barolo

 
First produced in 1911, the fruit for Massolino’s classic cuvée comes from seven hectares of prime-sited Serralunga vineyards. The most important of these—Briccolina, Collareto, Broglio and Le Turne—are dotted around the town itself; Le Turne borders Margheria, while Collareto lies next to Vigna Rionda. The 2021 includes a little fruit from Massolino’s Parussi Cru as well as some declassified Vigna Rionda! Vine age varies from 10 to 55 years. We are talking quality real estate.

 

Massolino Vigna Rionda Riserva

Vigna Rionda is universally considered, by those with a deep knowledge of the Barolo region and Serralunga, as one of the region’s greatest crus. It is also the vineyard most closely associated with Massolino, who are the largest owners with 3.5 hectares under vine. The Massolino family has farmed this site since 1956 with later purchases in 1967, 1985 and 1987, expanding their holdings to today’s levels. The vineyard’s reputation is well deserved—the site consistently produces brilliant, long-lived Barolos that possess a special completeness. Massolino does not use all their harvested fruit for the single vineyard release; they make a strict selection, and only bottle about a third of the potential volume under this label, with the rest going into the classic Barolo.

There is very little topsoil in Vigna Rionda, with a high concentration of limestone, oxidised iron and other mineral elements. This soil can be traced back to the Lequio Formation, the oldest soil of the Barolo area. The limestone content (around 20%) is one of the highest in the region, limiting vine vigour and ensuring full phenolic ripeness of the grapes. Other features include the altitude of 250 to 360 metres, and the site’s south-southwest aspect which protects the vines from northerly winds and frost. 

Combined, the unique position and soils of Vigna Rionda create wines with an optimum balance of perfume, finesse, concentration and structure. Excellent acidity and tannins are a feature, so the wines benefit from longer aging in botti and in bottle. This is why Massolino always release Vigna Rionda as a Riserva, with a minimum of six years of age. 
 

The Wines

Massolino Barolo 2021
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Massolino Barolo 2021

First produced in 1911, the fruit for Massolino’s classic cuvée comes from seven hectares of prime-sited Serralunga vineyards. The most important of these—Briccolina, Collareto, Broglio and Le Turne—are dotted around the town itself; Le Turne borders Margheria, while Collareto lies next to Vigna Rionda. We are talking quality real estate. The 2021 also includes a little fruit from Massolino’s Parussi Cru as well as some declassified Vigna Rionda! Vine age varies from 10 to 55 years. Half of this Barolo was fermented in large wooden cask, the other half in concrete. The final blend matured for up to 30 months in large, Slavonian oak casks.

From the first sip it is obvious we are dealing with a brilliant release of this wine. So much finesse, so much perfume, so much intensity and length. There is great potential here, yet the wine is already so delicious, with ribbons of sweet, complex fruit shot through with ultra-fine tannins, complexed by smoke and loads of spice. It has excellent structure and freshness yet tremendous elegance. Give it some air, or some time in bottle, and you will be amazed at what is being delivered at this price point. And don’t be scared to age it 5 to 10 years. It’s another brilliant-value wine from Massolino.

Massolino Barolo 2021
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Massolino Barolo 2021 (1500ml)
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Massolino Barolo 2021 (1500ml)

First produced in 1911, the fruit for Massolino’s classic cuvée comes from seven hectares of prime-sited Serralunga vineyards. The most important of these—Briccolina, Collareto, Broglio and Le Turne—are dotted around the town itself; Le Turne borders Margheria, while Collareto lies next to Vigna Rionda. We are talking quality real estate. The 2021 also includes a little fruit from Massolino’s Parussi Cru as well as some declassified Vigna Rionda! Vine age varies from 10 to 55 years. Half of this Barolo was fermented in large wooden cask, the other half in concrete. The final blend matured for up to 30 months in large, Slavonian oak casks.

From the first sip it is obvious we are dealing with a brilliant release of this wine. So much finesse, so much perfume, so much intensity and length. There is great potential here, yet the wine is already so delicious, with ribbons of sweet, complex fruit shot through with ultra-fine tannins, complexed by smoke and loads of spice. It has excellent structure and freshness yet tremendous elegance. Give it some air, or some time in bottle, and you will be amazed at what is being delivered at this price point. And don’t be scared to age it 5 to 10 years. It’s another brilliant-value wine from Massolino.

Massolino Barolo 2021 (1500ml)
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Massolino Barolo 2021 (375ml)
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Massolino Barolo 2021 (375ml)

First produced in 1911, the fruit for Massolino’s classic cuvée comes from seven hectares of prime-sited Serralunga vineyards. The most important of these—Briccolina, Collareto, Broglio and Le Turne—are dotted around the town itself; Le Turne borders Margheria, while Collareto lies next to Vigna Rionda. We are talking quality real estate. The 2021 also includes a little fruit from Massolino’s Parussi Cru as well as some declassified Vigna Rionda! Vine age varies from 10 to 55 years. Half of this Barolo was fermented in large wooden cask, the other half in concrete. The final blend matured for up to 30 months in large, Slavonian oak casks.

From the first sip it is obvious we are dealing with a brilliant release of this wine. So much finesse, so much perfume, so much intensity and length. There is great potential here, yet the wine is already so delicious, with ribbons of sweet, complex fruit shot through with ultra-fine tannins, complexed by smoke and loads of spice. It has excellent structure and freshness yet tremendous elegance. Give it some air, or some time in bottle, and you will be amazed at what is being delivered at this price point. And don’t be scared to age it 5 to 10 years. It’s another brilliant-value wine from Massolino.

Massolino Barolo 2021 (375ml)
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Massolino Barolo Vigna Rionda Riserva Etichetta Nera 2016
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Massolino Barolo Vigna Rionda Riserva Etichetta Nera 2016

Barolo lovers need no reminding: 2016 was an epic vintage, producing a stream of breathtaking wines. First bottled as a single Cru in 1982, 2016 marked the 35th vintage of Massolino’s benchmark Barolo, Vigna Rionda, and even those who know this wine intimately will surely not have tasted a greater expression. This year’s sheer quality led Massolino to introduce a new, all-black label, which henceforth will only be used for the greatest years of Vigna Rionda. The 2016 fermented with indigenous yeasts in oak tini—large, conical oak vats—with the blending and pre-bottling in stainless-steel tanks and cement vats. It matured for 36 months in Stockinger botti.

This is clearly a very special Vigna Rionda. It’s a rich, layered wine of enormous depth and power yet also great finesse. It’s unique, perhaps a little like 2010 or 2004 but with more structural power. The notes below tell you all you need to know about the quality on offer.

Massolino Barolo Vigna Rionda Riserva Etichetta Nera 2016
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Massolino Barolo Vigna Rionda Riserva 2017
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Massolino Barolo Vigna Rionda Riserva 2017

In a recent survey for Michele Longo and Ian D’Agata’s upcoming book, no Barolo cru garnered more votes from respondents asked to name Barolo’s top five Crus in terms of quality and prestige. Vigna Rionda is historically Serralunga’s most revered vineyard and the source of some of the greatest, finest, longest-lived Barolo. The Massolino family took ownership of their first parcel in 1956, and new parcels directly adjoining the existing vines were purchased in 1967, 1985, and 1987. This took Massolino’s holding to the 3.5 hectares of vines (two planted to Nebbiolo).

On some of the oldest soils of Barolo, there is very little topsoil here, with a high concentration of limestone, oxidised iron and other mineral elements. Vigna Rionda’s soil can be traced back to the Lequio Formation, the oldest soil of the Barolo area, originating in the Serravallian period between 13 and 11 million years ago. The limestone presence differentiates this vineyard from many other Barolo vineyards; the soils limit vigour and ensure consistent phenolic ripeness. In fact, within the Barolo area, Vigna Rionda, at roughly 14%, boasts one of the highest limestone contents in the entire Barolo zone.

The vines are at 250 to 360 metres’ altitude and protected from northerly winds and frost by the south/southwest aspect. This vineyard generates wines with an optimum balance of perfume, finesse, concentration and structure rarely found in Barolo. Excellent acidity and tannins are a feature of Vigna Rionda wines, so they require longer aging in botti and bottle. This is why Massolino’s Vigna Rionda is always released with a minimum of six years of age. Always aged in large cask, 2017 was the second vintage where Massolino’s Vigna Rionda also fermented in large wood. It spent 20 days on skins and then aged for 30 months in a 7,000-litre Stockinger botte.

Massolino Barolo Vigna Rionda Riserva 2017
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Massolino Barolo Parafada 2019
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Massolino Barolo Parafada 2019

Planted in 1957, Parafada was the Massolino family’s first prime parcel in Serralunga. It is still home to their oldest vines. Legend has it that Giovanni Massolino planted these vines when he was just 17 years old! Today these 66-year-old vines produce smaller berries with more concentrated fruit as a result. Located between Gabutti and Lazzarito, Massolino’s 1.2-hectare parcel rises steeply from 300 to 340 metres above sea level and faces due south, catching the full face of the sun. The aspect, old vines and dense clay/marl/lime-infused soils (Formazione di Lequio to be precise) typically result in the densest, most powerful wine of Massolino’s three Serralunga Crus. As with all three 2019 Crus, this was fermented and aged in large oak fermenters and had around two weeks on skins.

Massolino Barolo Parafada 2019
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Massolino Barolo Parafada 2019 (1500ml)
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Massolino Barolo Parafada 2019 (1500ml)

Planted in 1957, Parafada was the Massolino family’s first prime parcel in Serralunga. It is still home to their oldest vines. Legend has it that Giovanni Massolino planted these vines when he was just 17 years old! Today these 66-year-old vines produce smaller berries with more concentrated fruit as a result. Located between Gabutti and Lazzarito, Massolino’s 1.2-hectare parcel rises steeply from 300 to 340 metres above sea level and faces due south, catching the full face of the sun. The aspect, old vines and dense clay/marl/lime-infused soils (Formazione di Lequio to be precise) typically result in the densest, most powerful wine of Massolino’s three Serralunga Crus. As with all three 2019 Crus, this was fermented and aged in large oak fermenters and had around two weeks on skins.

Massolino Barolo Parafada 2019 (1500ml)
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