Robert Weil

And God Created Riesling—The Stunning 2022s
Robert Weil
If you know where to look, 2022 is manna from heaven for Riesling lovers. We had the pleasure of Robert Weil’s Nicolas Langer’s company recently, giving us ample opportunity to taste and re-taste the wines of this quicksilver German vintage. The wines blew us away with their coiled intensity, succulent fruit, juicy acidity and crystalline citrusy length. A high-voltage year to follow the livewire 2021.  

It wasn’t always meant to turn out like this. 2022 was the warmest year ever recorded in most of Germany’s wine regions, and the summer was both hot and extremely dry; Wilhelm Weil told us it sometimes felt that the Rhiengau had been transported to the Mediterranean. By summer's end, many growers imagined a vintage of rich, weighty wines akin to 2018. But Weil was not so sceptical.

Irrespective of the precision viticulture practised here, the high-altitude hillside vineyards of this iconic grower have what Liam Neeson’s Brian Mills might describe as a very particular set of skills. Even in dry years, not only can Weil’s vines regulate water supply by drawing on reserves from the forest above, but they also possess decisive drainage quality, courtesy of the phyllite soils, meaning they can weather wetter years with success. So, when the rains did arrive in September—and boy, didn’t it rain—Weil’s elevated sites dried off quickly, leaving only the most refreshing, balancing effects of the much-needed moisture when it counted.

Come September 20th, when the estate’s army of pickers began to harvest small, concentrated berries with ravishing acidity, Wilhelm Weil must have been pinching himself. “What you will taste comes across as from a cool vintage,” he says, cool as ice. A quick look at the numbers backs up his statement: all the dry wine sits just below 8 g/L of total acidity.

But who needs data when the wine tastes so good? Weil’s dry Rieslings from this year are super precise, taut, seamless and insanely delicious. I dare you to keep your hands off these wines! This year’s offer also includes the ultra-limited 2021 Monte Vacano, a Rheingau colossus drawn from a historical lieu-dit on the steepest and stoniest sector of the Gräfenberg Grand Cru. We also list for pre-sale the towering Gräfenberg Grosses Gewächs, which will be officially released on 1st September.

Weil’s higher Prädikats are wines that always take your breath away, and the super-limited 2022s are, again, staggeringly beautiful—the stuff of legend. This year, a cameo of pure botrytis arrived between mid and late October, enabling a thimbleful of nobly rotten berries for Weil to craft every level for the 34th year in a row. And God created Riesling.

The Wines

Robert Weil Rheingau Riesling Trocken 2022
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Robert Weil Rheingau Riesling Trocken 2022

This cuvée is a blend of fruit from Weil’s high-altitude sites dotted around the village of Kiedrich. These vineyards include the brilliantly named Sandgrub vineyard and there’s also a good dollop from Wasseros, a steep, southwest-facing vineyard that abuts the Gräfenberg vines. The soils of these sites are typically composed of stony, fragmented phyllite interlaced with loess and loam. At this level, the wine is vinified in stainless steel with roughly 5% fermented in large oak.

Robert Weil Rheingau Riesling Trocken 2022
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Robert Weil Rheingau Riesling Trocken 2022 (375ml)
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Robert Weil Rheingau Riesling Trocken 2022 (375ml)

This cuvée is a blend of fruit from Weil’s high-altitude sites dotted around the village of Kiedrich. These vineyards include the brilliantly named Sandgrub vineyard and there’s also a good dollop from Wasseros, a steep, southwest-facing vineyard that abuts the Gräfenberg vines. The soils of these sites are typically composed of stony, fragmented phyllite interlaced with loess and loam. At this level, the wine is vinified in stainless steel with roughly 5% fermented in large oak.

Robert Weil Rheingau Riesling Trocken 2022 (375ml)
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Robert Weil Rheingau Riesling Trocken 2022 (1500ml)
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Robert Weil Rheingau Riesling Trocken 2022 (1500ml)

This cuvée is a blend of fruit from Weil’s high-altitude sites dotted around the village of Kiedrich. These vineyards include the brilliantly named Sandgrub vineyard and there’s also a good dollop from Wasseros, a steep, southwest-facing vineyard that abuts the Gräfenberg vines. The soils of these sites are typically composed of stony, fragmented phyllite interlaced with loess and loam. At this level, the wine is vinified in stainless steel with roughly 5% fermented in large oak.

Robert Weil Rheingau Riesling Trocken 2022 (1500ml)
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Robert Weil Rheingau Riesling Kabinett Trocken 2022
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Robert Weil Rheingau Riesling Kabinett Trocken 2022

Compared to the Trocken, this release is drawn exclusively from a selection of the coolest and highest slopes of Kiedrich―principally the steep, southwest-facing Wasseros vineyard that abuts the Gräfenberg vines. Another difference is that the fruit is harvested a little earlier, making a wine at least a degree lower in alcohol but no sweeter. The style is a lighter, more filigreed expression with a caressing lightness of touch that dances on the palate. It was raised exclusively in stainless steel. 

Robert Weil Rheingau Riesling Kabinett Trocken 2022
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Robert Weil Kiedrich Klosterberg Riesling Trocken 2022
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Robert Weil Kiedrich Klosterberg Riesling Trocken 2022

The vines on this steep, four-hectare vineyard are now between 40 and 60 years old. At up to 300 metres, this is the highest of the three Weil hillside sites, yet thanks to its southern aspect and deeper, iron-rich weathered slate soils, it also produces the most opulent and seductive of these wines (when young). The Weil team often use the term ‘baroque’ when describing wines from Klosterberg, in reference to the lift and generosity. Like all of Weil’s single site ‘22s, this wine was raised entirely in doppelstückfass and aged on full lees for ten months before bottling. While the Klosterberg shares some similarities in character with the Kiedricher wine, you always get a kick up in intensity, complexity and drive at the finish.

Robert Weil Kiedrich Klosterberg Riesling Trocken 2022
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Robert Weil Kiedricher Riesling Trocken 2022
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Robert Weil Kiedricher Riesling Trocken 2022

Weil’s ‘villages’ level Riesling is a blend of first-picked parcels from the classified hillside estate sites of Klosterberg, Turmberg and Gräfenberg, as well as a measure of Wasseros fruit. As you would expect from such terroir, it is a step-up from the entry wine, with more texture, power and considerably more rocky, mineral intensity. Accordingly, one-third of the wine is raised in large Stockinger doppelstückfass (wooden cask) for six months.

Robert Weil Kiedricher Riesling Trocken 2022
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Robert Weil Kiedrich Turmberg Riesling Trocken 2022
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Robert Weil Kiedrich Turmberg Riesling Trocken 2022

As in the Klosterberg site, the vines here sit in the 30- to 50-year-old range. The name Turmberg—or ‘tower hill’—derives from the ruins of the last surviving tower of the former castle, Burg Scharfenstein (12th century), positioned dramatically atop the vineyard. The infamous German wine law of 1971 made this site a part of the neighbouring Gräfenberg. In 2005, Weil succeeded in having this 3.8-hectare monopole reinstated as an individual classified site in the vineyard register (historically, it had been a separate vineyard, reflecting the unique terroir). It’s interesting to note that while Turmberg has the official right to be classified as Grosse Lage, Wilhelm Weil chooses to bottle an Erste Lage from this steep vineyard. “There is only one tip on a pyramid,” he explains, referring to the Gräfenberg.

Robert Weil Kiedrich Turmberg Riesling Trocken 2022
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Robert Weil Kiedrich Turmberg Riesling Trocken 2022 (1500ml)
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Robert Weil Kiedrich Turmberg Riesling Trocken 2022 (1500ml)

As in the Klosterberg site, the vines here sit in the 30- to 50-year-old range. The name Turmberg—or ‘tower hill’—derives from the ruins of the last surviving tower of the former castle, Burg Scharfenstein (12th century), positioned dramatically atop the vineyard. The infamous German wine law of 1971 made this site a part of the neighbouring Gräfenberg. In 2005, Weil succeeded in having this 3.8-hectare monopole reinstated as an individual classified site in the vineyard register (historically, it had been a separate vineyard, reflecting the unique terroir). It’s interesting to note that while Turmberg has the official right to be classified as Grosse Lage, Wilhelm Weil chooses to bottle an Erste Lage from this steep vineyard. “There is only one tip on a pyramid,” he explains, referring to the Gräfenberg.

Robert Weil Kiedrich Turmberg Riesling Trocken 2022 (1500ml)
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Robert Weil Monte Vacano Riesling Trocken 2021
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Robert Weil Monte Vacano Riesling Trocken 2021

Within Kiedrich’s Gräfenberg Grand Cru lies a small 0.5-hectare parcel once known as the Gräfenberg-Lay. Sitting in one of the steepest portions of the vineyard, the Lay is located at the transition between Gräfenberg and Turmberg and is known for having the highest concentration of phyllite slate on the hill. The vines here are now between 40 and 60 years old.

This site was originally purchased by Dr Robert Weil in the 19th century, using the dowry from his marriage to Emilie von Vacano (a descendant of the Vacano family in Lombardy). The wine from this parcel, called Monte Vacano (the Hill of Vacano), was always produced and bottled alone. It was used only for celebratory occasions and never released for sale. Following Weil's death in 1921, the tradition of Monte Vacano fell dormant, and the fruit was incorporated into a regular Gräfenberg bottling.

Compared to the Gräfenberg GG, Monte Vacano trades power and richness for exceptional purity, elegance and detail. Resurrecting the old custom, 2021 marks the fourth Riesling in a century solely from this special lieu-dit. It was harvested in October, and the grapes were whole bunch-pressed into two ancient refurbished Stückfässer (1,200-litre casks), where the wine fermented spontaneously and spent almost two years on lees before bottling.

Robert Weil Monte Vacano Riesling Trocken 2021
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Robert Weil Kiedrich Gräfenberg Riesling Spätlese 2022
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Robert Weil Kiedrich Gräfenberg Riesling Spätlese 2022

Alcohol: 9.0 % | Acidity: 9.3 g/l  | Residual sugar: 68.8 g/l

Weil is widely considered one of the true greats of the sweeter Prädikat styles. One of the keys to this estate’s success with these wines is that the mountainous, rocky setting of the Kiedricher Berg vineyards allows for a perfect balance between natural sweetness, mouth-watering freshness and pungent, intense minerality.

Think about everything you love in this grower’s Spätlese, and then add some more. A wine of sublime purity and chiselled tension, the ‘22 offers up a kaleidoscopic array of flavour—try all kinds of citrus, quince, sweet yellow florals, woody herbs and slatey notes—perfectly balanced by thrilling, daisy-fresh acidity and mineral precision. Weil’s picking army, which numbers up to seventy strong, has worked its magic again, gifting a beguiling, pure and tangy wonder that seems to dissolve in the mouth. The 9% alcohol comes in very handy: It’s impossible to stop drinking. 

Robert Weil Kiedrich Gräfenberg Riesling Spätlese 2022
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Robert Weil Kiedrich Turmberg Riesling Auslese 2022 (375ml)
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Robert Weil Kiedrich Turmberg Riesling Auslese 2022 (375ml)

Alcohol: 8.5 % | Acidity: 10.3 g/l | Residual sugar: 116.5 g/l

Weil is widely considered one of the true greats of the sweeter Prädikat styles. One of the keys to this estate’s success with these wines is that the mountainous, rocky setting of the Kiedricher Berg vineyards allows for a perfect balance between natural sweetness, mouth-watering freshness and pungent, intense minerality. 

Robert Weil Kiedrich Turmberg Riesling Auslese 2022 (375ml)
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Robert Weil Kiedrich Gräfenberg Riesling Auslese 2022 (375ml)
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Robert Weil Kiedrich Gräfenberg Riesling Auslese 2022 (375ml)

Alcohol: 8.0 % | Acidity: 9.8 g/L | Residual sugar: 123.5 g/L

Weil is widely considered one of the true greats of the sweeter Prädikat styles. One of the keys to this estate’s success with these wines is that the mountainous, rocky setting of the Kiedricher Berg vineyards allows for a perfect balance between natural sweetness, mouth-watering freshness and pungent, intense minerality.

Robert Weil Kiedrich Gräfenberg Riesling Auslese 2022 (375ml)
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Robert Weil Kiedrich Turmberg Beerenauslese 2022 (375ml)
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Robert Weil Kiedrich Turmberg Beerenauslese 2022 (375ml)

Weil is widely considered one of the true greats of Germany’s highest Prädikat styles, which by default places them among the world’s greatest sweet wines. Riesling authority Stuart Piggot has written: “Where would the Rheingau’s tradition of high-end Riesling dessert wines be today if it weren’t for Wilhelm Weil’s modern masterpieces in the style.” He is not exaggerating!  

These wines are as staggeringly beautiful as they are rare. Made in homoeopathic qualities in small, custom-built vats, each sip of these wines is a symphony of flavours, with layers of apricot, peach, honey, and hints of citrus intertwining harmoniously with deep minerality and super-charged, crystalline acidify. The purity and poise, not to mention the sublime elegance and vibrating length, is profound. While they are incredibly delicious when open young, they are also amongst the longest-lived wines, improving in the bottle for generations.

One key to this estate’s success with these unique styles is that the mountainous, rocky setting of the Kiedricher Berg vineyards allows for a perfect balance between natural sweetness, mouth-watering freshness and pungent, intense minerality. 

The harvest seldom begins before October and continues for at least eight to ten weeks. During this time, the grapes are harvested by as many as 40 experienced pickers, with the draconian selection of pristine berries taking up to 17 passes through the vineyards.

The reward for such painstaking work is the kind of iridescent wines that have helped shape Rheingau’s legend for the past two centuries. Indeed, we could consider them among the first ever ‘icon wines’; this estate’s legendary 1893 Auslese traded hands for sums far exceeding Bordeaux or Burgundy’s top growths.

Alcohol: 8.5 % | Acidity: 12.5 g/l | Residual sugar: 235 g/L


Robert Weil Kiedrich Turmberg Beerenauslese 2022 (375ml)
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Robert Weil Kiedrich Gräfenberg Riesling Beerenauslese 2022 (375ml)
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Robert Weil Kiedrich Gräfenberg Riesling Beerenauslese 2022 (375ml)

Weil is widely considered one of the true greats of Germany’s highest Prädikat styles, which by default places them among the world’s greatest sweet wines. Riesling authority Stuart Piggot has written: “Where would the Rheingau’s tradition of high-end Riesling dessert wines be today if it weren’t for Wilhelm Weil’s modern masterpieces in the style.” He is not exaggerating!  

These wines are as staggeringly beautiful as they are rare. Made in homoeopathic qualities in small, custom-built vats, each sip of these wines is a symphony of flavours, with layers of apricot, peach, honey, and hints of citrus intertwining harmoniously with deep minerality and super-charged, crystalline acidify. The purity and poise, not to mention the sublime elegance and vibrating length, is profound. While they are incredibly delicious when open young, they are also amongst the longest-lived wines, improving in the bottle for generations.

One key to this estate’s success with these unique styles is that the mountainous, rocky setting of the Kiedricher Berg vineyards allows for a perfect balance between natural sweetness, mouth-watering freshness and pungent, intense minerality. 

The harvest seldom begins before October and continues for at least eight to ten weeks. During this time, the grapes are harvested by as many as 40 experienced pickers, with the draconian selection of pristine berries taking up to 17 passes through the vineyards.

The reward for such painstaking work is the kind of iridescent wines that have helped shape Rheingau’s legend for the past two centuries. Indeed, we could consider them among the first ever ‘icon wines’; this estate’s legendary 1893 Auslese traded hands for sums far exceeding Bordeaux or Burgundy’s top growths.

Alcohol: 8.5% | Acidity: 11.6 g/l  | Residual sugar: 199 g/L

Robert Weil Kiedrich Gräfenberg Riesling Beerenauslese 2022 (375ml)
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Robert Weil Kiedrich Turmberg Trockenbeerenauslese 2022 (375ml)
Robert Weil Kiedrich Turmberg Trockenbeerenauslese 2022 (375ml)
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Robert Weil Kiedrich Turmberg Trockenbeerenauslese 2022 (375ml)

Alcohol: 8 % | Acidity: 12.7 g/l | Residual sugar: 255 g/l

Weil is widely considered one of the true greats of the sweeter Prädikat styles. One of the keys to this estate’s success with these wines is that the mountainous, rocky setting of the Kiedricher Berg vineyards allows for a perfect balance between natural sweetness, mouth-watering freshness and pungent, intense minerality.

Robert Weil Kiedrich Turmberg Trockenbeerenauslese 2022 (375ml)
Robert Weil Kiedrich Turmberg Trockenbeerenauslese 2022 (375ml)
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Robert Weil Kiedrich Gräfenberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese 2022 (375ml)
Robert Weil Kiedrich Gräfenberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese 2022 (375ml)
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Added

Robert Weil Kiedrich Gräfenberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese 2022 (375ml)

Alcohol: 8 % | Acidity: 12.4 g/l | Residual sugar: 260.5 g/l

Weil is widely considered one of the true greats of the sweeter Prädikat styles. One of the keys to this estate’s success with these wines is that the mountainous, rocky setting of the Kiedricher Berg vineyards allows for a perfect balance between natural sweetness, mouth-watering freshness and pungent, intense minerality.

Robert Weil Kiedrich Gräfenberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese 2022 (375ml)
Robert Weil Kiedrich Gräfenberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese 2022 (375ml)
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“Weil is widely seen as the jewel of Rheingau. Jancis Robinson, Financial Times



“Robert Weil has been one of the icons of German wine culture for many years. Nothing but the finest Rieslings are produced. And as more than 100 years ago, thewines are distinguished in terms of their origins and their style.” Stephan Reinhardt, The Finest Wines of Germany



“Another of Germany's most celebrated domaines, Weil’s wines are noted for theirrichness and purity, delivering lots of citrus and fruit concentration, withoutever seeming heavy or ponderous.” Rajat Parr & Jordan Mackay,The Sommelier’s Atlas of Taste

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