Place of Changing Winds

“…Dreams and Best Practice…” [Bennie] - The Place of Changing Winds Estate and Tradition Wines
Place of Changing Winds

Today, we are delighted to present our offer of the limited Place of Changing Winds Estate and Tradition wines from the exceptional 2022 harvest. As the notes from James Halliday, Mike Bennie, Erin Larkin, Huon Hooke, and Campbell Mattinson hopefully make clear, there is some fabulous quality on offer. The quantities remain very small, but the quality is outstanding.

 

The vintage: The 2022 season demanded a huge amount of work from the POCW vineyard team. The long, slow ripening season was the second of three consecutive La Niña vintages, and harvest was even later than 2021, beginning in the third week of April (so, very late!). In the end, thanks to meticulous canopy management, very low yields and a few warm days at the very end of the season, the Place of Changing Winds team harvested a small crop of perfectly clean, ripe fruit.

 

The bunches were once again very small (average 46 grams—tiny!), and each parcel was picked separately as each arrived at maturity. In the end, 7.2 tonnes of Pinot and 2.2 tonnes of Chardonnay were harvested—at an average of just over 200 grams of fruit per vine. To give that very low number some context, when you convert these yields to hectolitres per hectare (hl/ha), you arrive at a figure of less than 20hl/ha—roughly half the quantity permitted in Burgundy’s Grand Cru vineyards.

 

The wines: In 2022, Place of Changing Winds made Larderdark Chardonnay and Between Two Mountains Pinot Noir. There is no High Density this year, nor will there be one from 2023. This is because the estate’s highest-density vines are always the last to ripen, and in the cool, late seasons of ’22 and ’23, the fruit from these vines did not reach the point where they justified a separate cuvée. The fruit, therefore, went into the Between Two Mountains blend. Remember, however, that all the vines at Place of Changing Winds are high density!

 

The Pinot Noir has wonderful finesse and perfume, while the Chardonnay is a powerful yet racy wine with a lot of character. Both are the product of the place, a no-compromise approach in the vines and cellar and, of course, the long 2022 season. This release also sees the return of the Tradition label. This includes the first release of the Tradition red since 2019 and the first ever white Tradition. These wines are released only in suitable years and blend estate and grower fruit. They represent fine value and are wonderful wines at the table. Both are superb.

The Wines

Place of Changing Winds Tradition White 2022
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Place of Changing Winds Tradition White 2022

This year, the POCW team decided to see if a blend of the three white grapes they have in the cellar might work as well as the Tradition red. They were blown away by the result, and so were we. This is one-third Chardonnay from a new Dominique Laurent Tronçais cask and two-thirds Marsanne and Roussanne. It has all the generosity of this producer’s Marsanne/Roussanne with the cut and thrust of the Chardonnay (not to mention some seriously classy oak). The first year of aging was in a mixture of 500-litre cask, Wineglobes and neutral barriques. The wine spent its second year in steel. It was bottled at the end of November 2023. 

Place of Changing Winds Tradition White 2022
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Place of Changing Winds Tradition White 2022 (1500ml)
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Place of Changing Winds Tradition White 2022 (1500ml)

This year, the POCW team decided to see if a blend of the three white grapes they have in the cellar might work as well as the Tradition red. They were blown away by the result, and so were we. This is one-third Chardonnay from a new Dominique Laurent Tronçais cask and two-thirds Marsanne and Roussanne. It has all the generosity of this producer’s Marsanne/Roussanne with the cut and thrust of the Chardonnay (not to mention some seriously classy oak). The first year of aging was in a mixture of 500-litre cask, Wineglobes and neutral barriques. The wine spent its second year in steel. It was bottled at the end of November 2023.

Place of Changing Winds Tradition White 2022 (1500ml)
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Added
Place of Changing Winds Tradition Red 2022
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Place of Changing Winds Tradition Red 2022

Made only in suitable years, this wine is inspired by the era-defining Syrah/Pinot blends crafted by Hunter legend Maurice O’Shea in the 1940s and ’50s. This release is a blend of 40% Pinot from estate vines and 60% Syrah from Heathcote and Harcourt. It spent the first year in a mix of large and small oak barrels, mostly neutral, with the last phase of aging in steel tank and 600-litre Stockinger cask. It was bottled at the end of November 2023. The result is a bright, perfumed, juicy wine. Although delicious now, it will certainly age well. 

Place of Changing Winds Tradition Red 2022
Added
Place of Changing Winds Tradition Red 2022 (1500ml)
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Added

Place of Changing Winds Tradition Red 2022 (1500ml)

Made only in suitable years, this wine is inspired by the era-defining Syrah/Pinot blends crafted by Hunter legend Maurice O’Shea in the 1940s and ’50s. This release is a blend of 40% Pinot from estate vines and 60% Syrah from Heathcote and Harcourt. It spent the first year in a mix of large and small oak barrels, mostly neutral, with the last phase of aging in steel tank and 600-litre Stockinger cask. It was bottled at the end of November 2023. The result is a bright, perfumed, juicy wine. Although delicious now, it will certainly age well.

Place of Changing Winds Tradition Red 2022 (1500ml)
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Added
Place of Changing Winds Larderdark Chardonnay 2022
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Place of Changing Winds Larderdark Chardonnay 2022

At this stage in the vineyard’s evolution, the estate’s close-planted Chardonnay vines have only given tiny yields. This has resulted in terrific concentration and power, while the climate has delivered mouth-watering freshness and drive. These two factors make for something unique. The wine was fermented and aged in Wineglobe (glass), one older barrique and one new 500-litre Dominque Laurent cask. It underwent malolactic fermentation and was bottled at the end of November 2023. 
Place of Changing Winds Larderdark Chardonnay 2022
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Place of Changing Winds Between Two Mountains Pinot Noir 2022
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Place of Changing Winds Between Two Mountains Pinot Noir 2022

Place of Changing Winds is roughly equidistant between Mount Macedon and Mount Bullengarook, hence the name of this cuvée, which is essentially the most representative Pinot of the season. It’s a fine, textural Pinot produced from all the estate’s plots (including the highest-density vines), save what went into the tiny Beyond the Forest cuvée. It spent 18 months maturing in Stockinger casks with 50% new oak (although this new component was a 1,000 cask, so it has very little impact). It’s a wine that will drink well young and has significant cellaring potential. It was bottled in January 2024. 

Place of Changing Winds Between Two Mountains Pinot Noir 2022
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“You get the sense that Place of Changing Winds is not only an artistic and pragmatic wine project but… a thing to be inspired by and perhaps see what is possible from dreams and best practice.” Mike Bennie, The Wine Front

“This extraordinary high-density vineyard is slotted between Mount Macedon and Mount Bullengarook. A high-density site of pinot noir and chardonnay, ranging from 12,500 to 33,000 vines/ha: there is nothing like this in Australia, or even in Burgundy (where 10,000 vines are deemed high density). No expense has been spared and the level of detail is nothing short of extraordinary.”★★★★★ Halliday Wine Companion

“Place of Changing Winds – the place and the vineyard – may well be the most exciting ‘new’ development in Australian wine. It will jump straight on to elite lists of Australian wine producers. You could describe this endeavour in one word: uncompromised.” Campbell Mattinson, The Wine Front

“Robert Walters has, in a manner of speaking, gone where angels fear to tread.” James Halliday, The Weekend Australian

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