Cantina D’Arcy

No Barolo, No Cry!
Cantina D’Arcy

Cantina D’Arcy is one of Piemonte’s genuine unicorns. Having known Tom Myers for years (he was first introduced to us by none other than Olivier Lamy), we have watched his rise closely and with immense satisfaction. He’s not only a talented winemaker, but also an exceptional grower (consulting to the likes of William Kelley, and having worked with the likes of Benjamin Leroux, Comte Armand, Marquis d’Angerville, Pyramid Valley, and Place of Changing Winds) while also being friends with a number of great growers in Burgundy, Rhone and, of course, Piemonte. 

 

Through his use of whole bunches, gentle extraction, and his goal to capture as much purity and freshness as possible (which has led to his decision to remove his single-vineyard Barolo, Preda, from the DOCG—see more on this in the wine note), Myers is producing something quite unique from Piemonte. 

The Wines

Cantina D'Arcy Langhe Nebbiolo 2023
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Cantina D'Arcy Langhe Nebbiolo 2023

Myers’ Langhe Nebbiolo 2023 is drawn from three vineyards: Perno in Monforte, Castagni in La Morra, and Bricco San Pietro, an MGA in Monforte d’Alba that lies east of the township. This year, the cuvée was mostly destemmed (20% left as bunches), while natural ferments, measured time on skins and pinpoint extraction form the blueprint for this perfumed and sensual young Nebbiolo. Matured in concrete for 11 months and 9 months in large cask, Myers believes his 2023 to be his finest version yet and one that sets the blueprint for the kind of vibrant, explosive Nebbiolo he wants to make. This much we know for sure: Myers’ passion for the aromatic complexity of fine Burgundy is again on show with this gloriously pretty expression of Piemonte. It’s not at all your average Langhe Nebbiolo, and it’s absolutely delicious.
Cantina D'Arcy Langhe Nebbiolo 2023
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Cantina D'Arcy Vino Rosso 'Pre' 2022
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Cantina D'Arcy Vino Rosso 'Pre' 2022

The big headline this year is that Tom Myers has made the decision to remove his single cru Barolo from the DOCG. Myers is interested in producing the highest quality possible, rather than slavishly following the Barolo DOCG laws. As the DOCG demands 18 months of wood aging, and as Myers did not age 100% of the 2022 in wood (feeling he would lose too much of the vibrancy and purity of the fruit), he made the decision to remove this wine from the DOCG, something we fully support. After all, it’s the quality of the wine that interests us, not what’s on the label!

The source of the wine remains the same of course. Preda is a single cru vineyard in the Barolo commune, nestled between Cannubi and Vignane, at the end of the Bussia Valley. Myers’ parcel sits high on the hill with an east-facing exposure, where the thin Sant’Agata soils are laced with a high proportion of active lime. This combination of exposure and rocky, calcareous soils helps shape a super fine, aromatic, mineral-driven expression of Nebbiolo, and Myers has evolved his winemaking accordingly. In fact, the winemaking notes read more like Burgundy than Barolo, with Myers employing 60–70% whole-bunches, and only 14 days on skins. The extraction is very gentle, and, while most of the wine was matured in large format oak, a small proportion was aged exclusively in tank. The final blend is a gorgeous, perfumed, bright and seductive wine with incredibly fine tannins, pure fruit and superb aromatic complexity. It calls to mind top old-vine Chambolle-Musigny—as if Roumier were making Barolo. Regardless of who made it, this is delicious—one of the most perfumed, silky, pretty, and irresistibly charming expressions of Barolo that you’re likely to encounter. The tannins are there, but they’re oh so fine. It’s still tight from its recent shipment so if you’re drinking now, make sure you give it a good decant, ideally for two or three hours! Otherwise put it in the cellar for a decade.

Cantina D'Arcy Vino Rosso 'Pre' 2022
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