Henriques & Henriques

“Miracle” Wines from Madeira: 1927, 1954, 1976 and Century-old Malmsey
Henriques & Henriques

This is about as rare as wine offerings get. Henriques & Henriques, one of the top sources of high-quality Madeira, has graciously opened a small portion of their ancient and rare back catalogue to us. What we managed to secure is not only a selection (albeit minuscule–just one bottle of each wine) of masterfully cellared Madeiras that will sit among the jewels in any collector’s cellar but true moments of wine history. Is your wine journey complete if you have yet to taste a wine from 1900 in pristine condition? We have just one bottle of each rarity available; please contact us as soon as possible should you wish to secure one.

Alongside the hyper-rare museum wines, we have also restocked our selection of 10-, 15- and 20-year-old bottlings, as well as the incredible-value 3- and 5-year-old wines. Below, we have included full notes and independent reviews for most wines, with links to our website for more information on those not listed. The notes and reviews don’t come close to capturing the astonishing quality or emotion involved when tasting such wines. Trust us when we say that trying is believing.

 

These four wines are not available for purchase through our website. Please contact Paul at pmedder@ifw.com.au if interested. Wine notes can be found at the bottom of this offer. 

 

The Place

Madeira―a tiny rocky island off the west coast of Africa―is home to some of the world’s most profound and soaringly complex wines. In many ways, Madeira is a wine style that defies logic. Eye-wateringly steep slopes, sub-tropical climate, high rainfall and fragmented ownership of micro-plots (most less than an acre in size) of vines mean growing here is not for the faint of heart. Yet it is precisely these conditions, combined with the unique production practice, that set Madeira in a fortified league of its own. In contrast to Portugal’s other famous fortified, Port, you can expect something lighter, more elegant, lithe and detailed. The best examples are astonishingly complex, striking remarkable balance between bracing acidity and kaleidoscope flavour, and often presenting as much drier than their sugar levels would have you expect. Their fine, filigree weight leaves you perplexed when you look at the alcohol content. And when it comes to aging potential, few wines come close; good Madeira borders on indestructible.

Henriques & Henriques has established an impeccable reputation as one of the top sources of high-quality Madeira. It is the leading independent Madeira shipping house and practises uncompromisingly devoted to its vineyards and wines. Not only is it the only house we know of that owns and farms a significant proportion of its own vineyards (10 hectares), but it is also unique in the holdings of extensive stocks, in both bottle and cask—some of which are more than a century or two old. The house style is, in the words of Tamlyn Currin, “rich, complex, glossy and concentrated”, making these ideal accompaniments for a wide range of dishes, from smoked fish, white meats, richly flavoured soups and broths and strongly flavoured cheeses to rich chocolate desserts and so much more between. Adventurous cooks can have a lot of fun with Madeira.

 

The Grapes
Sercial
Sercial produces the driest and most bracing Madeira style. It is still ‘off-dry’, but with bright, citrusy acid, and can be served chilled as an aperitif or with sashimi, consommés or soups.

Verdelho                                                                    
This late-maturing grape is used to produce slightly richer, medium-dry styles. Verdelho at this level produces a striking wine that can be served as an aperitif, with tapas-style food or complex seafood dishes. With age, the wines grow in intensity, developing delicious, honeyed depths balanced by natural acidity.

Bual   
The Bual vineyards are traditionally found in the south of the island (Campanário and Calheta) at lower altitudes of 100 to 300 metres. Although there is more sweetness, the wines remain fresh, lively, and balanced. Bual can pair with rich, meaty dishes but also with desserts; try cassoulet, fruit, custard tarts or cheese.

Malvasia
Malvasia (aka Malmsey) grows exclusively in the south of the island at altitudes between 150 and 200 metres. It is used to make the island’s sweetest, richest style—though it still exhibits the delicious, mouthwatering acidity of great Madeira. Traditionally, these wines are consumed with decadent chocolate desserts or enjoyed on their own at the end of the meal.

 

 

Museum Wines:

 

1976 Henriques & Henriques Terrantez
9234-750   $1383.00/bt or $1244.70/bt as part of a case 

21% alcohol; 72 g/L RS. “Old gold wine. Aroma to dried fruits, namely raisins, light vanilla and some wood. Complex taste between dry and sweet. This is a perfectly balanced wine. Long finish.” Henriques & Henriques
 


1954 Henriques & Henriques Malvasia
19862-750   $1872.00/bt or $1684.40/bt as part of a case 

20% alcohol; 149 g/L RS. “Very dark colour with brown and golden shades and slight greenish tints. Richly concentrated aroma of raisins, honey, spices and some rich wood. Rich, full-bodied and persistent taste and a long finish.” Henriques & Henriques      
 


1927 Henriques & Henriques Bastardo
23318-750   $4711.00/bt or $4239.90/bt as part of a case 

21.7% alcohol; 114 g/L RS. “Synonymous designation of the Trousseau grape variety (France), it matures early and reaches high sugar contents. Long oxidative ageing has revealed a complex aromatic composition, with notes of prunes, tobacco, coffee, caramel, toasted nuts and hazelnuts and propolis. In the mouth it is rich, unctuous and persistent.” Henriques & Henriques        

“Bastardo is synonymous designation of the Trousseau grape grown in parts of France. It ripens early and reaches significant sugar levels. This wine is real rarity and was only bottled in 2021: nut brown – mahogany in hue with spicy though slightly baked-toasted aromas and a pronounced torrefaction richness on the palate (114g/l residual sugar) redolent of dark chocolate and roasted coffee. The acidity really cuts though (11 g/l tartaric) leading to a long bitter-sweet finish. A rather wonderful curiosity and a great survivor.” 18 points, Richard Mayson, richardmayson.com
 


1900 Henriques & Henriques Century Malmsey
23319-750   $4888.00/bt or $4399.20/bt as part of a case 

The Solera system no longer exists in Madeira, but it has a long and proud history in the region. Some argue Madeira was the first area to use such a system of fractional blending, which was born out of both rising demand outstripping supply, and a desire to keep quality constant. Only 10% of an old wine could be withdrawn from any cask each year, to be topped with 10% young wines. This could only be done to the limit of 10 times before the solera was to be closed. The dates on these extraordinary and very rare wines refer to the foundation year of the solera. The wines have all been bottled within the last decade.

Solera start date: 1900, close date: 1905. 20% alcohol; 123 g/L RS. "This wine is actually, miraculously, commercially available. ‘We recommend standing it upright and decanting 24 hours before serving,' says John Cossart. This wine has been in bottle for 15 years but still has the freshness of a solera wine. Green-edged mahogany. Pungent nose of bonfires. Round and punchy, very well balanced. Lots of acidity but not too much. Lovely sipping madeira. Very very fresh. Quite amazingly lively even though almost elixir-like.”
19/20 points, Jancis Robinson

The Wines

Henriques & Henriques Verdelho 10Yo NV (500ml)
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Henriques & Henriques Verdelho 10Yo NV (500ml)

Planted at altitudes up to 400-metres located in the north of the island (Ponta Delgada and São Vincente), this late maturing grape is used to produce fruity, medium-dry styles. Considered a favourite amongst Madeira’s winemakers due to it’s ability to balance acidity, sugar and alcohol, at this level Verdelho produces a striking, off-dry wine that can also be served as an aperitif, with tapas dishes or more complex seafood dishes. With age, the wines grow in intensity, developing delicious honeyed depths and a creamy texture that is balanced by its racy acidity. 


Henriques & Henriques Verdelho 10Yo NV (500ml)
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Henriques & Henriques Bual 10Yo NV (500ml)
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Henriques & Henriques Bual 10Yo NV (500ml)

Henriques and Henriques 10 Year Old range is produced using the traditional Canteiro method in Henrique’s purpose-built lodges in Câmara de Lobos. The Bual vineyards are traditionally found in the south of the island (Campanário and Calheta) at lower altitudes (100-300-metres).

Henriques & Henriques Bual 10Yo NV (500ml)
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Henriques & Henriques Malvasia 10Yo NV (500ml)
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Henriques & Henriques Malvasia 10Yo NV (500ml)

A deeper wine all around, yet - for all its richness - one of the striking features is the refreshing elegance of the wine. This could go with richer desserts like plum pudding, or it is great simply on its own at the end of a meal to lift the spirits and refresh the palate!

Henriques & Henriques Malvasia 10Yo NV (500ml)
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Henriques & Henriques Verdelho 15Yo NV (500ml)
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Henriques & Henriques Verdelho 15Yo NV (500ml)

The 15 Year Old is a striking, off-dry wine that can be served as an aperitif, with tapas type dishes or seafood. Also excellent with consommés or soups. Verdelho has a medium body and racy acidity.

Henriques & Henriques Verdelho 15Yo NV (500ml)
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Henriques & Henriques Bual 15Yo NV (500ml)
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Henriques & Henriques Bual 15Yo NV (500ml)

Henriques and Henriques 15 Year Old range is produced using the traditional Canteiro method in Henrique's purpose-built lodges in Câmara de Lobos. In this process, the wines are cask-aged for a period of at least three years in the Canterio lodge, against south-facing windows subjecting the wine to the gentler, natural warmth of the sun, where it undergoes a much slower process of maturation.

This can go with richer dishes that are meat based or with sweeter dishes. Try this with cheese, fruit tarts, crème caramel, Portuguese custard tarts or tarte tartin. Brilliant amber wine with golden shades. Aromatic, revealing age, dried fruits. Medium rich, full body, complex and dried fruits.

Henriques & Henriques Bual 15Yo NV (500ml)
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Henriques & Henriques Malvasia 15Yo NV (500ml)
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Henriques & Henriques Malvasia 15Yo NV (500ml)

Malvasia (aka Malmsey) or Malvasia Cãndida/Malvasia Malvasia Branca de São Jorge, to be more accurate, is Henriques first grape to be harvested each year, and grows exclusively in the south of the island at a lower altitude of 150-200 metres. It is used to make the island’s sweetest, richest style, which still exhibits the delicious mouth-watering acidity of great Madeira. Traditionally, these wines are consumed with richer, chocolate-influenced desserts or enjoyed on their own after a meal.

Henriques & Henriques Malvasia 15Yo NV (500ml)
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Henriques & Henriques Terrantez 20 YO NV (750ml)
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Henriques & Henriques Terrantez 20 YO NV (750ml)

In his Big Book of Wine, Oberon Kant asks us, “What use is a wine to anyone unless it’s 20 years old?” We wouldn’t quite go that far but this rare wine makes for compelling evidence in support of that statement.

Historically considered to be the great grape of Madeira, Terrantez, was introduced in the late 1600's. By the 18th and 19th centuries Terrantez was producing what many experts considered to be the greatest wines of the island. However, the 1852 oidium outbreak destroyed most of the Terrantez vines, followed by phylloxera which put paid to the rest. Nowadays the variety is practically extinct and efforts to revive the plantings have been hampered by the grape's low-yielding nature and susceptibility to rot and to mildew in Madeira's humid climate. Henriques farm several tiny parcels of rare Terrantez, and are recognised as one of the leading producers of wines made with this variety.  

Henriques & Henriques Terrantez 20 YO NV (750ml)
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Henriques & Henriques Malvasia 20Yo NV (750ml)
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Henriques & Henriques Malvasia 20Yo NV (750ml)

This mindbogglingly complex Malvasia (weighting in at 20.45 alc/vol and just over 100 grams of residual sugar, balanced by delicious mouth-watering acidity) has been matured using the traditional Canteiro method in Henriques' purpose built lodges in Camara de Lobos. The wines are cask-aged in lodge attics, against south-facing windows, and at 20 years maturation thus, represents the best of Vinhos de Canteiro.



Henriques & Henriques Malvasia 20Yo NV (750ml)
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Henriques & Henriques Monte Seco Extra Dry 3Yo NV (500ml)
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Henriques & Henriques Monte Seco Extra Dry 3Yo NV (500ml)

Made predominantly from Tinta Negra Mole—with 10% Sercial in this case— Henriques & Henriques 3 Year Old blends are produced in an estufa process, specifically set up for these wines. They are then aged in oak casks for 3 years prior to bottling.

The Monte Seco is a pale, off-dry aperitif wine which is particularly delicious chilled or on the rocks (with some citrus rind) or as a long cool drink with tonic. It can also work as a mixer in cocktails. It goes really well with smoked salmon, other smoked fish, cured or charcuterie.

Henriques & Henriques Monte Seco Extra Dry 3Yo NV (500ml)
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Henriques & Henriques Rainwater Medium Dry 3Yo NV (500ml)
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Henriques & Henriques Rainwater Medium Dry 3Yo NV (500ml)

Henriques’ entry wines are very handy stand-by bottles for the fridge. They are predominantly made from Tinta Negra Mole—with 10% to 20% of Sercial, Verdelho or Malvasia depending on the age and style. There is a unique and sophisticated Estufa process used: the wines are slowly allowed to warm to 45ºC before being left to cool. This process takes 90 days, after which the wines go to cask.

The dry wines (which actually edge into off-dry) are ideal aperitifs, served chilled with freshly roasted nuts, olives or tapas-style food. The tangy, medium-dry wines pair beautifully with smoked fish and white meats, and are our choice for mixing in cocktails. The rich styles are delicious as a dessert wine, especially with creamy desserts and chocolate. They also pair well with strong cheese such as Stilton.

A pale, soft, medium dry wine.  It's aroma and flavour are very delicate.  It makes an excellent aperitif.



Henriques & Henriques Rainwater Medium Dry 3Yo NV (500ml)
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Henriques & Henriques Full Rich (500ml)
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Henriques & Henriques Full Rich (500ml)

Dark and sweet wine with caramel aromas. Full-bodied and very fruity, rich and with a very intense palate. It should be enjoyed with rich desserts such as puddings, chocolate cakes and coffee.
Henriques & Henriques Full Rich (500ml)
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Henriques & Henriques Finest Dry 5Yo NV (500ml)
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Henriques & Henriques Finest Dry 5Yo NV (500ml)

Made predominantly from Tinta Negra Mole—with 20% Sercial in this case— Henriques & Henriques 5 Year Old blends are produced in an estufa process specifically set up for these wines. A minimum of five years in barrel has given this wine a nutty, smoky bouquet which leads to an energetic and expansive palate etched with flavors of roasted almond, mandarin orange and dried honey. Excellent as an aperitif, with roasted nuts or as a great foil for a variety of fish tapas.

Henriques & Henriques Finest Dry 5Yo NV (500ml)
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Henriques & Henriques Finest Medium Dry 5Yo NV (500ml)
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Henriques & Henriques Finest Medium Dry 5Yo NV (500ml)

Henriques’ entry wines are very handy stand-by bottles for the fridge. They are predominantly made from Tinta Negra Mole—with 10% to 20% of Sercial, Verdelho or Malvasia depending on the age and style. There is a unique and sophisticated Estufa process used: the wines are slowly allowed to warm to 45ºC before being left to cool. This process takes 90 days, after which the wines go to cask.

The dry wines (which actually edge into off-dry) are ideal aperitifs, served chilled with freshly roasted nuts, olives or tapas-style food. The tangy, medium-dry wines pair beautifully with smoked fish and white meats, and are our choice for mixing in cocktails. The rich styles are delicious as a dessert wine, especially with creamy desserts and chocolate. They also pair well with strong cheese such as Stilton. 

The mellowing effect of ageing in oak casks has created this lovely Madeira; soft and elegant it is perfect with soups or as an aperitif. A ripe aftertaste gained from several years ageing in oak casks.

Henriques & Henriques Finest Medium Dry 5Yo NV (500ml)
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Henriques & Henriques Finest Medium Rich 5Yo NV (500ml)
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Henriques & Henriques Finest Medium Rich 5Yo NV (500ml)

Made predominantly from Tinta Negra Mole—with 20% Bual in this case— Henriques & Henriques 5 Year Old blends are produced in an estufa process specifically set up for these wines. They are then aged in oak casks for 5 years prior to bottling.

The Finest Medium Rich is a medium-dark and fruity Madeira, a little lighter than “Full Rich” or a Malvasia, but still deliciously full-bodied and very fragrant. It works perfectly as a dessert wine, especially with fruit-based deserts, chocolate, or rich cakes. It also a good pairing with strong cheeses such as Roquefort or Stilton, or even just with coffee.

Henriques & Henriques Finest Medium Rich 5Yo NV (500ml)
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Henriques & Henriques Finest Full Rich 5Yo NV (500ml)
Added

Henriques & Henriques Finest Full Rich 5Yo NV (500ml)

Henriques’ entry wines are very handy stand-by bottles for the fridge. They are predominantly made from Tinta Negra Mole—with 10% to 20% of Sercial, Verdelho or Malvasia depending on the age and style. There is a unique and sophisticated Estufa process used: the wines are slowly allowed to warm to 45ºC before being left to cool. This process takes 90 days, after which the wines go to cask.

The dry wines (which actually edge into off-dry) are ideal aperitifs, served chilled with freshly roasted nuts, olives or tapas-style food. The tangy, medium-dry wines pair beautifully with smoked fish and white meats, and are our choice for mixing in cocktails. The rich styles are delicious as a dessert wine, especially with creamy desserts and chocolate. They also pair well with strong cheese such as Stilton.

Ageing in oak casks has given this wine a high concentration and richness. A dark, full bodied, luscious, dessert wine. It will work on its own or with rich foods like chocolate, petits fours, blue cheese and with coffee.

Henriques & Henriques Finest Full Rich 5Yo NV (500ml)
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“Top-quality madeira is one of the world's most wickedly underrated fine wines. I know you will have read that about sherry - and that's true too - but I can understand why people don't like sherry. It does have a characteristic flavour that some palates will find off-putting. But madeira tastes like the elixir of life itself.Jancis Robinson MW, jancisrobinson.com

“I can't help believing that, in more ways than one, madeira at the quality end of the scale is nothing short of a miracle.” Tamlyn Currin, jancisrobinson.com

“I know of no wine of its class that can beat Madeira when at its best… In fact, I think Madeira and Burgundy carry combined intensity and complexity of vinous delights further than any other wine.”
George Saintsbury, Notes on a Cellar-Book, 1920

“Henriques & Henriques ten year olds [and 15 year olds] are much the best of the genre. Made from the four ‘noble’ grapes, they have much of the clean, high-toned, incisive character of a really fine Madeira for a fraction of the price.”
Richard Mayson, Portugal’s Wines & Wine Makers

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