It’s been almost 20 years since the birth of possibly the greatest side hustle in the history of wine—and a key moment in the modern Sherry revolution. The exact date was October 25th, 2005. A close group of trade professionals and wine writers had gathered at a restaurant in Madrid to taste a range of unfiltered sherries collected straight from the cask by Valdespino’s Eduardo Ojeda—the Messi of sherrymen—and Jesús Barquín, a passionate wine-loving Professor of Law at Granada University. Among the tasters was Luis Gutiérrez, now of The Wine Advocate. “For several of us, that day is etched in our memories,” he recounts. “It was a revelation.” All these years later, under the La Bota label, Equipo Navazos has kept releasing some of the most profound, complex and sometimes mesmeric wines we ship. Guided by their vast knowledge and unparalleled contacts, they have assembled arguably the finest offering of Sherries in the market. They have also “had a huge impact in rekindling global interest in fine sherry and making it gastronomically relevant, even hip”, to quote Andrew Jefford. Along the way, they have successfully challenged much conventional wisdom, not least in showing that younger Finos and Manzanillas can develop extra interest with bottle age. While it is common enough knowledge that Barquín and Ojeda have, to paraphrase Jamie Goode, made Sherry sexy again, it is less well known that Navazos also grows and makes its own wines, too. One of these wines, an unfortified, single-vineyard and single-vintage Palomino from a pago dubbed the ‘Montrachet of Jerez’, has sparked a separate revival in the vineyards and bodegas of Jerez and Sanlúcar. Thanks to Navazos, this beautiful, salty and truly unique style of wine—referred to these days as Vino de Pasto—is now all the talk in sommelier circles, with a growing group of producers including Muchada-Léclapart and Bodegas De La Riva now crafting delicious examples. We’re not quite done! What Navazos has achieved for Sherry, they are now doing (on a very small scale) for another of Andalucía’s delicacies: Vinagre de Jerez. For several years, they have been syphoning off tiny quantities of old stocks from the region’s DRC of Sherry Vinegars. Delivering a range of explosive flavours, these umami bombs are unlike anything else on the market. And now there is a smokin’ new artisanal Vermouth, made by Eduardo Ojeda, now in retirement from Valdespino. We didn’t get a chance to taste the wine before ordering to avoid missing out. After all, Dylan was right: You don’t need a weatherman to know which way the wind blows.