In the simplest terms, this captivating wine is a barrel-fermented Palomino Fino table wine inspired by a period in Andalucían wine history before fortification became the norm. Such wines were historically known as ‘vino de Manzanilla’ and were originally more highly regarded than the area’s fortified wines. Thanks to Navazos, this beautiful style of wine is now once again on trend in Spain, with producers such as Muchada-Léclapart and Bodegas De La Riva crafting delicious examples.
Now 15 vintages strong, the Navazos-Niepoort project—which originally included the expertise of winemaker Dirk Niepoort and Quim Vila (owner of legendary Barcelona wine merchant Vila Viniteca), continues to go from strength to strength. As always, the wine is sourced entirely from a mature parcel of hand-harvested grapes in Jerez’s great pago, Macharnudo Alto. Dubbed the ‘Montrachet of Jerez’, its specific albariza chalk—called Tosca de Barajuelas—results in low yields of thick-skinned grapes and a particularly fine, chalky, saline Palomino.
Under the watchful eye of Eduardo Ojeda, the fruit naturally ferments in a 40-year-old bota (Sherry cask) filled to 5/6 capacity to encourage a thin layer of flor. It then matures for some 11 months under a veil of flor before being bottled without fortification. The resulting wine is gorgeously saline and finely textured with notes of white blossom, citrus and sea spray pierced by electric acidity. It’s weighted like a silky, cool-climate Chardonnay but with a completely different personality; it’s far more savoury, with food-friendly umami and roasted almond skin notes topped off by a long, mouthwatering, chalky close. Unique and very delicious.