Equipo Navazos

Beyond Sherry—The Stunning La Bota Sherries & More

It’s been fifteen years since Eduardo Ojeda and Jesús Barquín burst onto the scene with their limited edition, “mind-blowing” [Jamie Goode] La Bota series. Sourced from the region’s rarest, most significant (and hitherto neglected) solera systems, Equipo Navazos swiftly became the cult producer for quality Sherry lovers, knowledgeable sommeliers and indie retailers worldwide.

Barquín is one of Spain’s leading experts and writers on Sherry, while Ojeda, one of Jerez’s leading tasters and blenders, is the technical director for the Estévez group, owners of Valdespino and La Guita Manzanilla. What these two do not know about Sherry is probably not worth knowing. The origins of the project date to late 2005, Ojeda and Barquín were tasting through some 400 casks of Manzanilla at the bodega of Sánchez Ayala in Sanlucar. As Andrew Jefford (The Coming of Jesús, Decanter) recounts in his story, one particular wine sparked the project we love so much today.

“After they had cantered through the Manzanillas, they started tasting other things in the cellar and discovered a ‘shrinking’ Amontillado solera which had been untouched and unrefreshed for 20 years. “The casks were beautiful,” Barquín remembers. “But since there was no market for Amontillado, the owner had instructed that instead of refreshing the angel’s share, the solera should be topped up from existing stocks, so the original 74 casks were now 69 or 65, I can’t remember.” Forty years of crisis had left Jerez and Sanlúcar littered with treasures of this sort. That was when the idea dawned on Barquín: why not buy a cask? He and Ojeda could then sell the bottles to their friends.”

Guided by their vast knowledge and unparalleled contacts, Navazos has assembled arguably the finest offering of Sherries in the market, while also promoting the great historical and cultural traditions that lie behind Sherry and the Jerez region

Since that first cask of Amontillado—named simply Bota de Amontillado No.1 after the short story by Edgar Allan Poe, ‘The Cask of Amontillado’—each successive, limited-edition bottling has been numbered accordingly and bottled En Rama: straight from the cask. The wines are selected for sheer quality as well as their distinct personalities. Initially, these bottlings were intended only for a select group of friends and professionals, but the response to the wines was so enthusiastic that it became evident that something important could, and should, come of this idea—namely, Equipo Navazos could remind the world just how great Sherry could be.

Guided by their vast knowledge and unparalleled contacts, Navazos has gone on to assemble arguably the finest offering of Sherries in the market, while also promoting the great historical and cultural traditions that lie behind Sherry and the Jerez region. These are all one-off bottlings, and once the bottles for each La Bota release are spoken for, there are no more. Our allocations remain very small and most often sell out before general release.

Thankfully, the Navazos story does not end with the hard-to-source La Bota wines. In consultation with a small core of importers (including Bibendum Wine Co.) Navazos also bottles a trio of more accessible yet still unfiltered En Rama sherries under the Equipo Navazos label. ‘I Think’ is a wonderfully potent and briny Manzanilla from the La Guita stable; the Fino ‘En Rama’ is drawn from a gold-standard solera and includes fruit from the ‘Montrachet’ of Jerez—Macharnudo Alto; and the Gran Solera is a stunning Jerezano style P.X. aged for over 25 years. These are shipped freshly bottled, in more significant quantities and positioned at more accessible pricing. Also remarkable is Navazos’ white wine project, inspired by a period in Andalucían wine history before fortification was the norm.

Finally, for some time now Navazos has turned its attention to sourcing some extraordinary examples of Spanish spirits in collaboration with New York spirits guru Nicolas Palazzi. The unique range of La Bota Whiskey, Rum, Brandy and Gin stem at least in part from this fertile collaboration. Most are single-cask and have spent much of their lives aging in large Sherry bota in Jerez de la Frontera.

The Range

Equipo Navazos I Think Manzanilla Saca March 2024 (375ml)
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Equipo Navazos I Think Manzanilla Saca March 2024 (375ml)

Once described by Max Allen as licking oyster shells in rolling surf, this ground-breaking Manzanilla comes from a 60-strong cask selection made by Navazos founders Jesus Barquín and Eduardo Ojeda that was plucked from the production of La Guita, one of the most famous (and finest) Manzanilla producers (and where, for decades Ojeda oversaw production in his previous role as the technical director of José Estévez). As always, this current bottling was drawn from its barrels en rama (directly from the barrels with only the lightest filtration). This is how Manzanilla used to be bottled before sterile filtering became the standard in Jerez.The current batch was bottled in March 2024. It’s a wonderfully potent and briny yet seductive wine with a deep, silky texture and plenty of sustained, tangy drive. Four and a half years under flor and gentle bottling direct from cask has also delivered a vibrant gold colour and some nutty development. It’s a much deeper colour than most other Manzanillas on the market (which are typically very clear due to their youth and sterile filtration). That makes this unique in comparison to other Manzanillas in its price range. It remains light years ahead of more common, conventional Manzanillas.

“I tasted a more recent bottling of the Manzanilla I Think for the Australian market. It was filled in March 2024, so it's one year older than the one I also tasted next to it. The NV Manzanilla I Think (March 2024) was fortified to 15% alcohol and has a pH of 3.21 with 4.79 grams of acidity. It's expressive and with some volume and, dare I say it, creaminess, but it's serious, pungent and balanced.”
92 points, 92+ points, Luis Gutiérrez, The Wine Advocate
“Pale straw-green; a mown grass, hedgerow, nutty bouquet. The palate is vibrant, fresh and crunchy, with a classic dry finish, lingering long, with no phenolics, and a fresh breeze aftertaste.”
95 points, James Halliday, the Weekend Australian Magazine
Equipo Navazos I Think Manzanilla Saca March 2024 (375ml)
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Equipo Navazos La Bota 106 Vinagre de Jerez Gran Reserva Bota NO
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Equipo Navazos La Bota 106 Vinagre de Jerez Gran Reserva Bota NO

Saca of July 2021. Antonio Páez Lobato is known as the ‘King of Vinegar’. A born entrepreneur, at the age of 23 he joined his family Bodega and set about commercialising his region’s famous vinegar, Vinagre de Jerez. Selecting vinegar soleras from the likes of Sandeman, González Byass, Lacave Ruiz Tagle and Osborne, Lobato put Jerez Vinegar on the international map, and his work was instrumental in getting this unique product its own Denominación de Origen. For some years Navazos toyed with the idea of bottling one of the few very old vinegar casks that Lobato’s house Páez Morilla continues to cellar as treasures. They had doubts, however; that despite the age, intensity and sheer quality of the liquid, there would be enough interest in a product like this. In June 2021 they bottled 1,200 half bottles from a single old oak cask for La Bota 106 Vinagre de Jerez Gran Reserva Bota NO.Made using the traditional Criaderas y Solera method, this incomparable Vinagre de Jerez Gran Reserva was made with wine that was already almost 15 years old, an age to which Barquín estimates another forty years must be added. Its acetic grade is above 11, which is outrageous, and it maintains almost 3.5% alcohol.Vinegars like this are often used to give character to younger vinegars, however, this one has been bottled as is, without any dilution: an essence of true Sherry vinegar. It is, in Barquín’s words, “a spectacular vinegar, ideal for perfuming dishes with just a few drops”. Normally, a minimal amount will suffice (even with a dropper) as a dressing and it is even advisable to not add it directly, rather prepare a vinaigrette by mixing it with oil, salt and whatever else is appropriate. When age, provenance, and quality, not to mention how long it will last once opened, are considered the price is more than reasonable. Think of it as gastronomic gold.

Vinegars like this are often used to give character to younger vinegars, however, this one has been bottled as is, without any dilution: an essence of true Sherry vinegar. It is, in Barquín’s words, “a spectacular vinegar, ideal for perfuming dishes with just a few drops”. Normally, a minimal amount will suffice (even with a dropper) as a dressing and it is even advisable to not add it directly, rather prepare a vinaigrette by mixing it with oil, salt and whatever else is appropriate. When age, provenance, and quality, not to mention how long it will last once opened, are considered the price is more than reasonable. Think of it as gastronomic gold.

Equipo Navazos La Bota 106 Vinagre de Jerez Gran Reserva Bota NO
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Equipo Navazos La Bota 127 de Vinagre de Jerez Reserva Botas Punta (375ml)
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Equipo Navazos La Bota 127 de Vinagre de Jerez Reserva Botas Punta (375ml)

Saca of June 2024. This astonishing Sherry vinegar is the younger sibling of the exceptionally old Gran Reserva (La Bota 106) we shipped last year. This bottling is also sourced from Bodegas Páez Morilla, which put Jerez vinegar on the international map. Its owner, Antonio Páez Lobato, is known as the ‘King of Vinegar’, and his work was instrumental in getting this unique product its own Denominación de Origen.Made using the traditional Criaderas y Solera method, this Vinagre de Jerez Reserva was made with wine that was already almost 15 years old, an age to which Barquín estimates another 15 years must be added; it is at least 30 years old. Just 1,400 half bottles were drawn from the de punta casks (located at the extreme of each batch of casks). Compared to the seven or eight degrees of acetic acid that the oldest and noblest vinegars on the market usually have, here we are above 10! At such a high grade, it retains a few degrees of alcohol. “It’s a real beast,” exclaims Navazos’ co-founder Jesús Barquín! Beastly good, we might add.Vinegars like this are often used to give character to younger ones, but here it has been bottled as is, without any watering down. Ideal for aromatising dishes with just a few drops, usually a minimal amount will suffice as a dressing. Another interesting option could be to prepare a mixture of sherry in a small bottle (it can be very old, but also a young Amontillado, or even a Fino) and this vinegar; for example, 1/4 of the former and 3/4 of the latter. Or it can be used less sparingly: a marinade or escabeche prepared entirely with this vinegar will be an exceptional dish.

Equipo Navazos La Bota 127 de Vinagre de Jerez Reserva Botas Punta (375ml)
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Equipo Navazos La Bota 122 Vermut Rojo
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Equipo Navazos La Bota 122 Vermut Rojo

A sweet Vermouth from Equipo Navazos? Yes, and it's predictably wonderful! From the late 1800s through the mid-20th century, Vermut de Jerez was all the rage in Andalucía. Backed by the likes of Valdespino and Lustau, today the style is roaring back into vogue. Eduardo Ojeda and Jesús Barquín have been perfecting their recipe for several years, and now we have their first release. For the base wine they have chosen a five-year-old Oloroso from a prestigious bodega in Jerez, to which Ojeda has steeped a blend of botanicals including wormwood, coriander, liquorice, elderflower, juniper, bitter orange peel and grapefruit peel, all of which can be found growing wild in the fields and mountains of Andalucía.With this inaugural small-batch release, Barquín confirms they have already achieved their first objective: “To have a few cases in our personal cellars to enjoy them as an aperitif and to prepare the best cocktails in the world!” We should add that it’s a complex, artisanal, unique Vermouth that blew our socks off. Bottled at 17.5%, it leans to the traditional, spicy-citrus side with measured Oloroso sweetness matched by elegant bitterness. You’ll find notes of sarsaparilla root, walnut skin and warm spice floating out of the glass, backed by an elegant bitterness and long, clean finish with citrus peel notes to the fore.In Spain, a perfectly balanced wine of this quality would be typically served neat or on the rocks with a slice of orange. If you want to take a leaf out of Barquín’s book, it takes to a Boulevardier or Manhattan like a duck to water. Or why not a decadent Negroni Sbagliato? With only 2,000 bottles made, we encourage Navazos lovers to get on their bicicletas.

Equipo Navazos La Bota 122 Vermut Rojo
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Navazos Niepoort 2022
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Navazos Niepoort 2022

In the simplest terms, this captivating wine is a barrel-fermented Palomino Fino table wine inspired by a period in Andalucían wine history before fortification became the norm. Such wines were historically known as ‘vino de Manzanilla’ and were originally more highly regarded than the area’s fortified wines. Thanks to Navazos, this beautiful style of wine is now once again on trend in Spain, with producers such as Muchada-Léclapart and Bodegas De La Riva crafting delicious examples.Now 15 vintages strong, the Navazos-Niepoort project—which originally included the expertise of winemaker Dirk Niepoort and Quim Vila (owner of legendary Barcelona wine merchant Vila Viniteca), continues to go from strength to strength. As always, the wine is sourced entirely from a mature parcel of hand-harvested grapes in Jerez’s great pago, Macharnudo Alto. Dubbed the ‘Montrachet of Jerez’, its specific albariza chalk—called Tosca de Barajuelas—results in low yields of thick-skinned grapes and a particularly fine, chalky, saline Palomino.Under the watchful eye of Eduardo Ojeda, the fruit naturally ferments in a 40-year-old bota (Sherry cask) filled to 5/6 capacity to encourage a thin layer of flor. It then matures for some 11 months under a veil of flor before being bottled without fortification. The resulting wine is gorgeously saline and finely textured with notes of white blossom, citrus and sea spray pierced by electric acidity. It’s weighted like a silky, cool-climate Chardonnay but with a completely different personality; it’s far more savoury, with food-friendly umami and roasted almond skin notes topped off by a long, mouthwatering, chalky close. Unique and very delicious.

“The first of the unfortified whites from Jerez with some aging under flor produced together with Niepoort from Portugal since 2008, the 2022 Navazos-Niepoort is now in its 15th vintage. As always, it was produced with grapes from a single vineyard, Macharnudo in Jerez. 2022 is a classical and balanced vintage in the zone. It fermented the old way, in old 600-liter Sherry casks and aged for some 10 months in the bota under a veil of flor yeast, as the barrels are only filled to five-sixths of their capacity. It rested in tank, also with flor, for a couple of months before it was bottled in August 2023.”
93 points, Luis Gutiérrez, The Wine Advocate
Navazos Niepoort 2022
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Equipo Navazos La Bota 43 Brandy
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Equipo Navazos La Bota 43 Brandy

Bottled in 2013. This stunning spirit is the follow-up bottling to La Bota No. 29 and the second of three barrels to be bottled two years apart. The age of the liquid at bottling was 13 years, with the last three years of aging undertaken in an old Manzanilla cask of Rey Fernando de Castilla in El Puerto de Santa María. This edition is from a single cask and the totality of the butt has been bottled, so that each of the 500ml bottles is indeed a jewel of limited production and availability, and strictly unrepeatable.Like its predecessor, this must be tasted to be believed. So floral, so pure, so complex and so intense, this is a spirit that will amaze (and possibly trouble!) even the finest Cognac producers. Compared to its sibling No. 29, edition number 43 is two years older. Its finesse is evident in a side-by-side comparison—it’s more harmonious and less marked by fruit presence (however, if tasted next to the best Brandy de Jerez of other producers, both 29 and 43 share a remarkable degree of sophistication as opposed to spirits with traditionally enhanced sweetness and intensity).

Like its predecessor, this must be tasted to be believed. So floral, so pure, so complex and so intense, this is a spirit that will amaze (and possibly trouble!) even the finest Cognac producers. Compared to its sibling No. 29, edition number 43 is two years older. Its finesse is evident in a side-by-side comparison—it’s more harmonious and less marked by fruit presence (however, if tasted next to the best Brandy de Jerez of other producers, both 29 and 43 share a remarkable degree of sophistication as opposed to spirits with traditionally enhanced sweetness and intensity).

Equipo Navazos La Bota 43 Brandy
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AT-A-GLANCE

• Equipo Navazos is a specialist Sherry bottler and exporter, established in 2005 by Jesús Barquín and Eduardo Ojeda.

• The project began when the pair discovered, purchased and bottled a forgotten lot of 65 butts of 20+-year-old Amontillado from a bodega in Sanlúcar.

• The original model continues: purchasing small batches of often forgotten Sherry butts and bottling them (unfiltered/en rama) under their ‘La Bota’ range with sequential numbering based on date.

• The wines are sourced from bodegas around the Jerez, Sanlúcar de Barrameda and wider Andalucía areas.

• Unusually transparent for the region, the labels show Bodega name, bottling date and volume bottled (always tiny).

• Equipo Navazos also make various unfortified and fortified wines in various styles, including the excellent entry-level I Think Manzanilla and Florpower white.

• There is also a range of premium spirits, including malt and grain Whiskies, Rum, Gin and Brandy.

• The La Bota wines are small-batch, high-quality and in high demand; they often sell out pre-release.



IN THE PRESS

“The wines by Equipo Navazos are a cultural contribution of the highest importance.” Juancho Asenjo, “La Sobremesa” at www.elmundovino.com

“Equipo Navazos make mindblowing Sherries. I’m drinking one at the moment, and it’s a life-enhancing experience.” Jamie Goode, www.wineanorak.com

“They are not cheap. But then nor is Grand Cru burgundy.” Jancis Robinson MW, Sherry as Montrachet – revelations. jancisrobinson.com

“Every wine region needs a few extraordinary individuals to champion its cause, and Barquín is one.” Andrew Jefford, Decanter

Country

Spain

Primary Region

Jerez, Andalucía

People

Owners: Eduardo Ojeda and Jesús Barquín

Availability

National

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