Equipo Navazos

Beyond Sherry—The Stunning La Bota Sherries & More

It’s been fifteen years since Eduardo Ojeda and Jesús Barquín burst onto the scene with their limited edition, “mind-blowing” [Jamie Goode] La Bota series. Sourced from the region’s rarest, most significant (and hitherto neglected) solera systems, Equipo Navazos swiftly became the cult producer for quality Sherry lovers, knowledgeable sommeliers and indie retailers worldwide.

Barquín is one of Spain’s leading experts and writers on Sherry, while Ojeda, one of Jerez’s leading tasters and blenders, is the technical director for the Estévez group, owners of Valdespino and La Guita Manzanilla. What these two do not know about Sherry is probably not worth knowing. The origins of the project date to late 2005, Ojeda and Barquín were tasting through some 400 casks of Manzanilla at the bodega of Sánchez Ayala in Sanlucar. As Andrew Jefford (The Coming of Jesús, Decanter) recounts in his story, one particular wine sparked the project we love so much today.

“After they had cantered through the Manzanillas, they started tasting other things in the cellar and discovered a ‘shrinking’ Amontillado solera which had been untouched and unrefreshed for 20 years. “The casks were beautiful,” Barquín remembers. “But since there was no market for Amontillado, the owner had instructed that instead of refreshing the angel’s share, the solera should be topped up from existing stocks, so the original 74 casks were now 69 or 65, I can’t remember.” Forty years of crisis had left Jerez and Sanlúcar littered with treasures of this sort. That was when the idea dawned on Barquín: why not buy a cask? He and Ojeda could then sell the bottles to their friends.”

Guided by their vast knowledge and unparalleled contacts, Navazos has assembled arguably the finest offering of Sherries in the market, while also promoting the great historical and cultural traditions that lie behind Sherry and the Jerez region

Since that first cask of Amontillado—named simply Bota de Amontillado No.1 after the short story by Edgar Allan Poe, ‘The Cask of Amontillado’—each successive, limited-edition bottling has been numbered accordingly and bottled En Rama: straight from the cask. The wines are selected for sheer quality as well as their distinct personalities. Initially, these bottlings were intended only for a select group of friends and professionals, but the response to the wines was so enthusiastic that it became evident that something important could, and should, come of this idea—namely, Equipo Navazos could remind the world just how great Sherry could be.

Guided by their vast knowledge and unparalleled contacts, Navazos has gone on to assemble arguably the finest offering of Sherries in the market, while also promoting the great historical and cultural traditions that lie behind Sherry and the Jerez region. These are all one-off bottlings, and once the bottles for each La Bota release are spoken for, there are no more. Our allocations remain very small and most often sell out before general release.

Thankfully, the Navazos story does not end with the hard-to-source La Bota wines. In consultation with a small core of importers (including Bibendum Wine Co.) Navazos also bottles a trio of more accessible yet still unfiltered En Rama sherries under the Equipo Navazos label. ‘I Think’ is a wonderfully potent and briny Manzanilla from the La Guita stable; the Fino ‘En Rama’ is drawn from a gold-standard solera and includes fruit from the ‘Montrachet’ of Jerez—Macharnudo Alto; and the Gran Solera is a stunning Jerezano style P.X. aged for over 25 years. These are shipped freshly bottled, in more significant quantities and positioned at more accessible pricing. Also remarkable is Navazos’ white wine project, inspired by a period in Andalucían wine history before fortification was the norm.

Finally, for some time now Navazos has turned its attention to sourcing some extraordinary examples of Spanish spirits in collaboration with New York spirits guru Nicolas Palazzi. The unique range of La Bota Whiskey, Rum, Brandy and Gin stem at least in part from this fertile collaboration. Most are single-cask and have spent much of their lives aging in large Sherry bota in Jerez de la Frontera.

The Range

Equipo Navazos La Bota 115 Fino
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Equipo Navazos La Bota 115 Fino

Saca de August 2022. This stunning Fino comes from the Macharnudo Alto (the ‘Grand Cru’ parcel within Jerez’s legendary Macharnudo vineyard) and was drawn from Valdespino’s Inocente solera. This will need no introduction to Navazos fans, as the same solera and vineyard brought you the fabled La Bota numbers 2, 7, 15, 18, 27, 35, 54, 68 and 91.Of course, this is a single-vineyard wine (extremely rare in the world of Fino these days) from one of the four great pagos that lie to the north and west of Jerez. Dubbed the ‘Montrachet of Jerez’, the albariza chalk here—called Tosca de Barajuelas—results in low yields of thick-skinned grapes and a particularly fine, chalky, saline, structured Palomino. Macharnudo Alto is the most celebrated part of the vineyard, the parcel with the highest altitude and the one considered to have the purest albariza soils.This time around, it’s a selection from the solera: the oldest casks for complexity, and the second criadera for freshness. This bottling was also blended with some younger criaderas from the Macharnudo Alto estate. Eduardo Ojeda (the Master) explains: “We are looking for particular finesse and freshness in this saca. The wine is now more fluid and fresher than in previous editions, without in any case losing its authenticity.” Its average age is close to eight years, a couple of years less than the previous bottlings. Food? Oysters, olives, anchovies, salted almonds, whitebait, charcuterie, prawns, hard cheese, etc. In fact, drink it with whatever you like, but with the aforementioned foods, you will be in heaven!

“The NV La Bota de Fino 115 is still 100% from Macharnudo Alto, and they are trying to make a slightly more fluid wine, not like a Fino Amontillado, which was the case with some bottlings coming from the selection of very old soleras. It's slightly different from the previous edition, number 91; this is slightly younger, between seven and eight years of age, but it keeps the same style, just a little more approachable. It's still an old Fino, with notes of esparto grass and volume in the palate. 6,000 bottles produced. This was bottled in August 2022 in 0.75-liter bottles.”
95 points, Luis Gutiérrez, The Wine Advocate
“Bottled a few days ago. From the Machurnado vineyard. They have decreased the average age by a couple of years so it’s seven or eight years on average and the wine is more refreshing and not so uncomfortably concentrated. Firmer and nuttier than I Think Manzanilla with real tang and bite. Hint of molten dry treacle. Real grip. Neat and convincing. Not yet open – needs a couple of months.”
16.5++ points, Jancis Robinson MW, jancisrobinson.com
Equipo Navazos La Bota 115 Fino
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Equipo Navazos La Bota 118 Palo Cortado Pata de Gallina (500ml)
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Equipo Navazos La Bota 118 Palo Cortado Pata de Gallina (500ml)

A powerful yet extremely elegant Palo Cortado, sourced from oxidatively aged wines (essentially fino where the flor has died early so the wine is fortified). This is a wine of remarkable finesse and expressiveness, with a very complex nose blending amontillado and oloroso aromas. Its origin lies in a selection made thirteen years ago among the finest casks of oxidative wine owned by Almacenista Juan García Jarana. Three previous releases preceded it: La Bota de Palo Cortado 34 "Pata de Gallina," bottled in 2012, La Bota de Palo Cortado 72 "Pata de Gallina," bottled in 2017, and La Bota de Palo Cortado 92 "Pata de Gallina," bottled in 2019. This marks the fourth saca from this small solera, locally called an "altarillo," or little altar, belonging to Equipo Navazos and held at Fernando de Castilla.

"Complex nose with burned brown sugar, ash, dark honey, vanilla and black walnuts. Round and full-bodied with a phenolic touch to the endless finish that goes on for two minutes. 20.5% alcohol. Drink now."
96 points, Zekun Shuai, James Suckling
Equipo Navazos La Bota 118 Palo Cortado Pata de Gallina (500ml)
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Equipo Navazos La Bota 121 Palo Cortado
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Equipo Navazos La Bota 121 Palo Cortado

The fourth release, following editions 52, 75 and 102, of a groundbreaking approach to the palo cortado style, the result of decades of work by Eduardo Ojeda and his team. Despite its relative youth, it honours the smoothness, purity and complexity that the category demands. But it's also a single-vineyard, vintage-dated wine, sourced from 2010 musts harvested in the legendary Pago Miraflores La Baja, Sanlúcar de Barrameda. The vines are 50 to 80 years old, and also gift the fruit that makes La Bota de Florpower. Aged in Sherry butts and barriques filled almost to the top to limit oxidation, this saca comes from the same barrels as edition No. 75. Fundamentally oxidative, with only slight biological ageing before fortification to 17.5% alc., this carries the typical saline minerality of Sanlúcar's coastal vineyards yet with an otherworldly complexity.

"Complex and intense nose with hints of rancio, sourdough yeast, sultanas, walnuts, saffron and salted toffee. Creamy and round on the palate with lots of almonds and a finish that seems never-ending. Good integration of alcohol here. Saca April, 2023. Drink now."
95 points, Zekun Shuai, James Suckling
Equipo Navazos La Bota 121 Palo Cortado
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Equipo Navazos La Bota 124 Fino Amontillado
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Equipo Navazos La Bota 124 Fino Amontillado

Another Fino on its first steps toward becoming an Amontillado. It's a 15-year-old wine sourced from the oldest fino solera in Pérez Barquero's Bodega Los Amigos. From here, twelve butts were selected that showed amontillado notes and yet preserved fino character. It remains a true fino, aged under a fragile layer of flor. It's a fascinating, deep and elegant wine, exceptionally versatile at the table. Bottled in November 2023, unfined and virtually unfiltered, its golden colour is the same as straight from the barrel.

"A touch of oxidative complexity in the form of caramel, walnut and vanilla extract to the sourdough bread and intense honeyed fruit and figs. Round, salty and intense, with a long and dry finish that lasts two minutes. 16.5% alcohol. From pedro ximenez grapes."
94 points, Zekun Shuai, James Suckling
Equipo Navazos La Bota 124 Fino Amontillado
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Equipo Navazos La Bota 127 de Vinagre de Jerez Reserva Botas Punta (375ml)
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Equipo Navazos La Bota 127 de Vinagre de Jerez Reserva Botas Punta (375ml)

Saca of June 2024. This astonishing Sherry vinegar is the younger sibling of the exceptionally old Gran Reserva (La Bota 106) we shipped last year. This bottling is also sourced from Bodegas Páez Morilla, which put Jerez vinegar on the international map. Its owner, Antonio Páez Lobato, is known as the ‘King of Vinegar’, and his work was instrumental in getting this unique product its own Denominación de Origen.Made using the traditional Criaderas y Solera method, this Vinagre de Jerez Reserva was made with wine that was already almost 15 years old, an age to which Barquín estimates another 15 years must be added; it is at least 30 years old. Just 1,400 half bottles were drawn from the de punta casks (located at the extreme of each batch of casks). Compared to the seven or eight degrees of acetic acid that the oldest and noblest vinegars on the market usually have, here we are above 10! At such a high grade, it retains a few degrees of alcohol. “It’s a real beast,” exclaims Navazos’ co-founder Jesús Barquín! Beastly good, we might add.Vinegars like this are often used to give character to younger ones, but here it has been bottled as is, without any watering down. Ideal for aromatising dishes with just a few drops, usually a minimal amount will suffice as a dressing. Another interesting option could be to prepare a mixture of sherry in a small bottle (it can be very old, but also a young Amontillado, or even a Fino) and this vinegar; for example, 1/4 of the former and 3/4 of the latter. Or it can be used less sparingly: a marinade or escabeche prepared entirely with this vinegar will be an exceptional dish.

Equipo Navazos La Bota 127 de Vinagre de Jerez Reserva Botas Punta (375ml)
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Navazos Niepoort 2022
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Navazos Niepoort 2022

In the simplest terms, this captivating wine is a barrel-fermented Palomino Fino table wine inspired by a period in Andalucían wine history before fortification became the norm. Such wines were historically known as ‘vino de Manzanilla’ and were originally more highly regarded than the area’s fortified wines. Thanks to Navazos, this beautiful style of wine is now once again on trend in Spain, with producers such as Muchada-Léclapart and Bodegas De La Riva crafting delicious examples.Now 15 vintages strong, the Navazos-Niepoort project—which originally included the expertise of winemaker Dirk Niepoort and Quim Vila (owner of legendary Barcelona wine merchant Vila Viniteca), continues to go from strength to strength. As always, the wine is sourced entirely from a mature parcel of hand-harvested grapes in Jerez’s great pago, Macharnudo Alto. Dubbed the ‘Montrachet of Jerez’, its specific albariza chalk—called Tosca de Barajuelas—results in low yields of thick-skinned grapes and a particularly fine, chalky, saline Palomino.Under the watchful eye of Eduardo Ojeda, the fruit naturally ferments in a 40-year-old bota (Sherry cask) filled to 5/6 capacity to encourage a thin layer of flor. It then matures for some 11 months under a veil of flor before being bottled without fortification. The resulting wine is gorgeously saline and finely textured with notes of white blossom, citrus and sea spray pierced by electric acidity. It’s weighted like a silky, cool-climate Chardonnay but with a completely different personality; it’s far more savoury, with food-friendly umami and roasted almond skin notes topped off by a long, mouthwatering, chalky close. Unique and very delicious.

“The first of the unfortified whites from Jerez with some aging under flor produced together with Niepoort from Portugal since 2008, the 2022 Navazos-Niepoort is now in its 15th vintage. As always, it was produced with grapes from a single vineyard, Macharnudo in Jerez. 2022 is a classical and balanced vintage in the zone. It fermented the old way, in old 600-liter Sherry casks and aged for some 10 months in the bota under a veil of flor yeast, as the barrels are only filled to five-sixths of their capacity. It rested in tank, also with flor, for a couple of months before it was bottled in August 2023.”
93 points, Luis Gutiérrez, The Wine Advocate
Navazos Niepoort 2022
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AT-A-GLANCE

• Equipo Navazos is a specialist Sherry bottler and exporter, established in 2005 by Jesús Barquín and Eduardo Ojeda.

• The project began when the pair discovered, purchased and bottled a forgotten lot of 65 butts of 20+-year-old Amontillado from a bodega in Sanlúcar.

• The original model continues: purchasing small batches of often forgotten Sherry butts and bottling them (unfiltered/en rama) under their ‘La Bota’ range with sequential numbering based on date.

• The wines are sourced from bodegas around the Jerez, Sanlúcar de Barrameda and wider Andalucía areas.

• Unusually transparent for the region, the labels show Bodega name, bottling date and volume bottled (always tiny).

• Equipo Navazos also make various unfortified and fortified wines in various styles, including the excellent entry-level I Think Manzanilla and Florpower white.

• There is also a range of premium spirits, including malt and grain Whiskies, Rum, Gin and Brandy.

• The La Bota wines are small-batch, high-quality and in high demand; they often sell out pre-release.



IN THE PRESS

“The wines by Equipo Navazos are a cultural contribution of the highest importance.” Juancho Asenjo, “La Sobremesa” at www.elmundovino.com

“Equipo Navazos make mindblowing Sherries. I’m drinking one at the moment, and it’s a life-enhancing experience.” Jamie Goode, www.wineanorak.com

“They are not cheap. But then nor is Grand Cru burgundy.” Jancis Robinson MW, Sherry as Montrachet – revelations. jancisrobinson.com

“Every wine region needs a few extraordinary individuals to champion its cause, and Barquín is one.” Andrew Jefford, Decanter

Country

Spain

Primary Region

Jerez, Andalucía

People

Owners: Eduardo Ojeda and Jesús Barquín

Availability

National

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