Pyramid Valley

Heaven Scent: The Limited Release 2023 Botanicals + New Central Otago Mānatu Chardonnay
Pyramid Valley

In a wine world where The Story seems to have become more important than The Wine, it’s refreshing to sit down and taste with a winemaker who gets straight down to brass tacks. “It was a great year, but we had to struggle for it,” said Huw Kinch, a winemaker all too familiar with the perils of growing grapes in a marginal climate. Pyramid’s Waikari yields were wincingly small, dropping to a low of 11 hl/ha. The chief culprit: a severe spring snowstorm in October that froze and damaged more than 50% of the Pinot and Chardonnay shoots.

But, like a butterfly emerging from its chrysalis, the resulting wines are something to behold. Kinch explained that, thanks to the reduced crop load, his remaining fruit ripened perfectly; the bottled wines offer not only greater fruit intensity than the 2022 vintage, but greater perfume, tension and radiant structure (all at very moderate alcohols, we might add). We won’t be alone in suggesting that at least a few of these blocks have never made a more riveting young wine than in 2023; wines that feel alive in the glass and exude an authenticity that is hardwired into the DNA of the world’s greatest growers. You could argue the same goes for the new member of the Botanical family, Snake's Tongue, which one scribe notes “has set a benchmark for 2023 [Otago] Pinots.”

Pyramid Valley has always been about individuality rather than one-upmanship. This is precisely as it should be with terroir-driven wines—individuality is the key. In Huw Kinch’s words, “I don’t think you can make wines like these from any other site in the world. They are so unique. Whether you like them or not comes down to personal taste. That’s what makes great wine so captivating—it cannot be replicated.”

So here we have a great vintage from a sublime producer—there’s the story. For more on the vintage and winemaking (and some great maps and pictures), please see Pyramid’s Botanicals Collection detailed release notes.

In addition to the Botanicals Collection, we’re also delighted to introduce one of the newest labels in the Pyramid Valley stable—Mānatu Chardonnay, sourced from the Swann Road blocks of Pyramid Valley’s Mānatu vineyard in the Lowburn subregion of Central Otago.

The Wines

Pyramid Valley Central Otago Mānatu Chardonnay 2023
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Pyramid Valley Central Otago Mānatu Chardonnay 2023

One of the youngest labels in the Pyramid stable, Mānatu Chardonnay come from the Swann Road blocks on Pyramid Valley’s Mānatu vineyard in the Lowburn sub region of Central Otago. There is a range of clones, including Mendoza, Monte, 95 and 548 all planted at a spacing of 1.6m x 1.2m. The Soils are predominantly loess over deep silts and gravels, and, as of 2022, site has been certified organic by BioGro NZ.

Wild ferment in French oak (28% new) and left on lees without sulphur for 12 months, it opens with savoury ‘Burgundian' aromas, framed by appealing smoky reduction. It’s equally complex on the palate where measured power meets crystalline acidity and punchy ripe fruit flavour. It’s a pristine, powerful and lithe Chardonnay, at once, both layered and detailed, with a ripple of minerality. Give it a little time and the wine settles into more poised and elegant territory, finishing with sustained drive and precision.

Pyramid Valley Central Otago Mānatu Chardonnay 2023
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Pyramid Valley Lion's Tooth Chardonnay 2023
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Pyramid Valley Lion's Tooth Chardonnay 2023

Biodynamic. This site takes its name from the vineyard’s abundance of dandelions (dent-de-lion—‘lion’s tooth’—in French). The original 0.4 hectares of vines were planted in 2000 at a density of 11,111 vines per hectare, with a further 2.8 hectares planted between 2018 and 2020, though most of the fruit for this wine (89%) comes from the 2000 plantings. The biodynamically farmed Lion’s Tooth is a steeply inclined, east-facing site on soils with a “nut and crumb structure and great mineral fertility.” It’s the classic limestone and clay of the area but with a higher balance of clay (30%) than Field of Fire.

Picked at a wincingly low 12.5 hl/ha, there are riveting aromas of flint, toast, mandarin peel and orange blossoms. Concentrated, focused flavours envelop the palate with bursts of acidity and the phenolic breadth this site always delivers. It finishes with turbo-charged zeal and impeccable length. Pyramid only made 126 six-packs in 2023. It’s a shame that so few will get to taste this enthralling Chardonnay.

Pyramid Valley Lion's Tooth Chardonnay 2023
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Pyramid Valley Field of Fire Chardonnay 2023
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Pyramid Valley Field of Fire Chardonnay 2023

Biodynamic. Field of Fire takes its name from the type of grass that grows among the vines in this gently sloped, southeast-facing, clay-limestone plot. It’s nestled in the northeast corner of the property, sheltered by a belt of trees and a range of hills behind it. The original 0.3 hectares were planted in 2000 at a density of 11,111 vines per hectare. Plantings expanded by a further 1.2 hectares between 2018 and 2020, though only the original 2000 plantings and 0.3 hectares from 2018 go into this wine. The Field of Fire plot has a cooler, rockier profile than Lion’s Tooth, and though soils vary throughout, there is a prevalence of shallow (10-15cm) glauconitic clays over the well-drained limestone bedrock. In comparison, Field of Fire typically shows a tighter mineral core and athletic structure cloaked by layered, complex flavour.
Pyramid Valley Field of Fire Chardonnay 2023
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Pyramid Valley Earth Smoke Pinot Noir 2023
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Pyramid Valley Earth Smoke Pinot Noir 2023

Biodynamic. Like the Chardonnay vineyards, Pyramid Valley’s Waikari Pinot Noir sites were planted in 2000 at 11,111 vines per hectare on slopes with clay/limestone soils. Earth Smoke is an expansive slope that faces east and is situated southwest of Lion’s Tooth and north of its sibling Pinot Noir site, Angel Flower. The soils are richer than Angel Flower, described by Steve Smith as “strong and beautifully structured” with a high proportion of clay (30%) over the limestone bedrock. The name comes from the nickname given to fumitory, a plant from the poppy family that thrives in this 0.85-hectare plot. Although both wines share DNA, the later-picked Earth Smoke is typically the more structured and darker of the two, with more fruit weight and savoury undertones to accompany its tender, fine tannins.
Pyramid Valley Earth Smoke Pinot Noir 2023
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Pyramid Valley Angel Flower Pinot Noir 2023
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Pyramid Valley Angel Flower Pinot Noir 2023

Biodynamic. Angel Flower is the prettiest of many synonyms for yarrow, a grassland and pasture plant with delicate, fennel-like leaves and a brilliant mass of white flowers. Yarrow is the basis of the biodynamic preparation 502 and is strongly associated with mobilising natural sulphur and potassium in the soil.

Planted in 2000 at 11,111 vines per hectare, the 0.7-hectare Angel Flower plot is a cooler, more exposed Pinot block on the Pyramid Valley property. It’s a stunning, steeply sloped, north-facing vineyard located at the Estate’s southern tip. The soils are shallow and coarse with less clay (15%) than Earth Smoke, which Huw Kinch says enhances the wine’s aromatic profile. By comparison, you can expect similar weight and shape to Earth Smoke, with heightened floral aromatics and a silky slip through the palate.

Pyramid Valley Angel Flower Pinot Noir 2023
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Pyramid Valley Snake's Tongue Pinot Noir 2023
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Pyramid Valley Snake's Tongue Pinot Noir 2023

This is the third release of Pyramid Valley’s Snake’s Tongue Pinot Noir from the Estate’s impressive Mānatu vineyard, located in the Lowburn sub-region of Central Otago. Planted in the mid-2000s by Jean and Roger Gibson, the former Lowburn Ferry property sits on a gentle, north-facing slope in the foothills of the Pisa Ranges. A key trait of the site is its soils: loess over deep silts with pedogenic lime deposits. With high pH and suitability for growing world-class Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, these soils proved the main drawcard for winemaker Huw Kinch, viticulturist Nick Paulin and owner Steve Smith, MW.

The 10.2-hectare property is home to a patchwork of Pinot Noir clones—Abel, 667, 777, 114, 115, 943, 828, and clone 5—playing into Kinch’s preference for clonal mix in the vineyard and the winery. The Snake’s Tongue block is a 1.9-hectare plot in the southeast corner of the vineyard, with this release drawn from a 0.7-hectare parcel of Abel clone planted in 2007. (The remaining 1.2 hectares comprises new high-density vines—clones 828, 943 and 115—planted in 2018 and 2019.)

In contrast to the Pinot fruit from the cooler Waikari property (Earth Smoke and Angel Flower), Mānatu’s Pinot Noir sees more sunshine and gives a wine of immediate pleasure. Focussed on textured and juicy five spice, spiced plums and cherries, it has a core of power and intensity not found in the more restrained northern fruit. Kinch uses whole bunches (25%) and a measure of new oak in the Mānatu wines (30%) to harness this inherent power, techniques he tells us would overpower the Waikari wines. It is yet another example of his thoughtful, site-based approach.

Pyramid Valley Snake's Tongue Pinot Noir 2023
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“You may think you know New Zealand wines but I can assure you that until you have tasted Pyramid Valley, you have no idea. The results speak for themselves: astonishingly good, terroir-expressive wines that will challenge all your preconceptions.” Lisa Perrotti-Brown, The Wine Advocate

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