One of the youngest labels in the Pyramid stable, Mānatu Chardonnay come from the Swann Road blocks on Pyramid Valley’s Mānatu vineyard in the Lowburn sub region of Central Otago. There is a range of clones, including Mendoza, Monte, 95 and 548 all planted at a spacing of 1.6m x 1.2m. The Soils are predominantly loess over deep silts and gravels, and, as of 2022, site has been certified organic by BioGro NZ.

Wild ferment in French oak (28% new) and left on lees without sulphur for 12 months, it opens with savoury ‘Burgundian' aromas, framed by appealing smoky reduction. It’s equally complex on the palate where measured power meets crystalline acidity and punchy ripe fruit flavour. It’s a pristine, powerful and lithe Chardonnay, at once, both layered and detailed, with a ripple of minerality. Give it a little time and the wine settles into more poised and elegant territory, finishing with sustained drive and precision.

Biodynamic. This site takes its name from the vineyard’s abundance of dandelions (dent-de-lion—‘lion’s tooth’—in French). The original 0.4 hectares of vines were planted in 2000 at a density of 11,111 vines per hectare, with a further 2.8 hectares planted between 2018 and 2020, though most of the fruit for this wine (89%) comes from the 2000 plantings. The biodynamically farmed Lion’s Tooth is a steeply inclined, east-facing site on soils described as having a “nut and crumb structure and great mineral fertility.” It’s the classic limestone and clay of the area but with a higher balance of clay (30%) than Field of Fire. 

Picked at a wincingly low 12.5 hl/ha, there are riveting aromas of flint, toast, mandarin peel and orange blossoms while concentrated, focused flavours envelop the palate with bursts of acidity and the phenolic breadth this site always delivers. It finishes with turbo-charged zeal and impeccable length. Pyramid only made 126 six-packs in 2023. A shame that so few will get to taste this enthralling Chardonnay. 

Biodynamic. Field of Fire takes its name from the type of grass that grows among the vines in this gently sloped, southeast-facing, clay-limestone plot nestled in the northeast corner of the property, sheltered by a belt of trees and a range of hills behind it. The original 0.3 hectares were planted in 2000 at a density of 11,111 vines per hectare. Plantings expanded by a further 1.2 hectares between 2018 and 2020, though only the original 2000 plantings and 0.3 hectares from 2018 go into this wine. The Field of Fire plot has a cooler, rockier profile than Lion’s Tooth, and though soils vary throughout, there is a prevalence of shallow (10-15cm) glauconitic clays over the well-drained limestone bedrock. In comparison, Field of Fire typically shows a tighter mineral core and athletic structure cloaked by layered, complex flavour. 

Cropped even lower than Lion’s Tooth, here is another elite Chardonnay, worthy of a place among the best the New and Old World wines. The aromas are a tad more chiselled and feistier, with Meyer lemon, freshly cut limes and ocean spray bristling from the glass. Taught yet rich, the palate is almost startlingly fresh with a lightning bolt of acidity giving excellent energy to the concentrated salty-citrus flavours. Ms Gibb may have tasted this on a root day! 

Biodynamic. Field of Fire takes its name from the type of grass that grows among the vines in this gently sloped, southeast-facing, clay-limestone plot nestled in the northeast corner of the property, sheltered by a belt of trees and a range of hills behind it. The original 0.3 hectares were planted in 2000 at a density of 11,111 vines per hectare. Plantings expanded by a further 1.2 hectares between 2018 and 2020, though only the original 2000 plantings and 0.3 hectares from 2018 go into this wine. The Field of Fire plot has a cooler, rockier profile than Lion’s Tooth, and though soils vary throughout, there is a prevalence of shallow (10-15cm) glauconitic clays over the well-drained limestone bedrock. In comparison, Field of Fire typically shows a tighter mineral core and athletic structure cloaked by layered, complex flavour. 

Cropped even lower than Lion’s Tooth, here is another elite Chardonnay, worthy of a place among the best the New and Old World wines. The aromas are a tad more chiselled and feistier, with Meyer lemon, freshly cut limes and ocean spray bristling from the glass. Taught yet rich, the palate is almost startlingly fresh with a lightning bolt of acidity giving excellent energy to the concentrated salty-citrus flavours.

Biodynamic. Like the Chardonnay vineyards, Pyramid Valley’s Waikari Pinot Noir sites were planted in 2000 at 11,111 vines per hectare on slopes with clay/limestone soils. Earth Smoke is an expansive slope that faces east and is situated southwest of Lion’s Tooth and north of its sibling Pinot Noir site, Angel Flower. The soils are richer than Angel Flower, described by Steve Smith as “strong and beautifully structured”—there’s a high proportion of clay (30%) over the limestone bedrock. The name comes from the nickname given to fumitory, a plant from the poppy family that thrives in this 0.85-hectare plot. Although both wines share DNA, the later-picked Earth Smoke is typically the more structured and darker of the two, with more fruit weight and savoury undertones to go with its tender, fine tannins.

The combination of sunlight, high UV, moderate temperatures and decent humidity is nirvana for temperate plants. Pyramid’s vines respond by harnessing all this energy to ripen grapes that are full of the delicate aromas, beautiful flavours and refined phenolics that are the benchmark for fine, cool-climate Pinot Noir. The 2023 Earth Smoke is resplendent with this energy and the unique stamp of its part of the Waikari vineyard. Made from paltry yields of 11 hl/ha, Huw Kinch has crafted wine that screams of place, composed and pure, with elegant texture and expansive presence—just superb.

Biodynamic. Angel Flower is the prettiest of many synonyms for yarrow, a grassland and pasture plant with delicate, fennel-like leaves and a brilliant mass of white flowers. Yarrow is the basis of the biodynamic preparation 502 and is strongly associated with mobilising natural sulphur and potassium in the soil. 

Planted in 2000 at 11,111 vines per hectare, the 0.7-hectare Angel Flower plot is the cooler, more exposed Pinot block on the Pyramid Valley property. It’s a stunning, steeply sloped, north-facing block located at the southern tip of the Estate. The soils are shallow and coarse with less clay (15%) than Earth Smoke, which Huw Kinch says enhances the wine’s aromatic profile. By comparison, you can expect similar weight and shape to Earth Smoke, with heightened floral aromatics and a silky slip through the palate. 

The winemaking mirrors Earth Smoke, so the difference comes purely from site and soil. It leaps out the glass with scents of peonies, dried herbs and summer berries underscored by a flinty, underbrush savouriness. It is like drinking satin, with flavours of berry compote and fresh sour cherries floating over the palate, seamless structure and a mineral, iodine-spiked finish. It’s a dazzlingly good Pinot and sheer class. 

This is the third release of Pyramid Valley’s Snake’s Tongue Pinot Noir from the Estate’s impressive Mānatu vineyard, located in the Lowburn sub-region of Central Otago. Planted in the mid-2000s by Jean and Roger Gibson, the former Lowburn Ferry property sits on a gentle, north-facing slope in the foothills of the Pisa Ranges. A key trait of the site is its soils: loess over deep silts that have developed pedogenic lime deposits. With high pH and suitability for growing world-class Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, these soils proved the main drawcard for winemaker Huw Kinch, viticulturist Nick Paulin and owner Steve Smith, MW. 

The 10.2-hectare property is home to a patchwork of Pinot Noir clones—Abel, 667, 777, 114, 115, 943, 828, 115 and clone 5—playing into Kinch’s preference for clonal mix in the vineyard and the winery. The Snake’s Tongue block is a 1.9-hectare plot in the southeast corner of the vineyard, with this release drawn from a 0.7-hectare parcel of Abel clone planted in 2007. (The remaining 1.2 hectares comprises new high-density vines—clones 828, 943 and 115—planted in 2018 and 2019.)

In contrast to the Pinot fruit from the cooler Waikari property (Earth Smoke and Angel Flower), Mānatu’s Pinot Noir sees more sunshine and gives a wine of immediate pleasure. Focussed on textured and juicy five spice, spiced plums and cherries, it has a core of power and intensity not found in the more delicate and restrained northern fruit. Kinch uses whole bunches (25%) and a measure of new oak in the Mānatu wines (30%) to harness this inherent power; techniques he tells us would overpower the Waikari wines. It is yet another example of his thoughtful, site-based approach. A wine so delicious it may well be laced with dopamine.