Domaine Huet

No Pain, No Gain—Stunning Dry Chenin from a Biodynamic Icon
Domaine Huet

It’s tempting to say Huet pulled off a miracle in 2023. But then, the great growers make their own luck. So, let’s say they have pulled off a masterclass on how best to own a growing season that was far from straightforward. We could talk about the humid summer, the arrival of powdery mildew—a bête noir to biodynamic growers—or the return of the irksome Suzukii fruit fly (the aphid that took a chunk out of Burgundy in 2014); yet at Huet, these challenges have been rendered a footnote to what, in the bottle, is a sensational year for this grower’s wines.

 
“Trust the great winemakers, trust the great vineyards.” Kermit Lynch’s great war cry remains as relevant today as when it was written some quarter of a century ago. When we arrived in Vouvray in late October last year, Huet was one of the few domaines still harvesting. Many had since given up the ghost. Benjamin Jolivieu explained that the harvest took twice as long as in 2022, but he knew the effort had paid off. No pain, no gain. Draconian sorting, starting when the grapes were still on the vine, came down to a berry-by-berry selection when the fruit hit the cellar. Losses of 30% seemed like a fair price for the quality achieved.  


2023 was a year that favoured the dry styles. There’s lovely texture, complexity and drive to the wines, alongside a shimmering, light-filled length. The juiciest and most forward of the three dry wines is Le Haut Lieu, a succulent glade of orange and stone fruit kissed by white flowers and subtle toasty notes. From Huet’s chalkiest vineyard, Le Mont ramps up the mineral presence alongside yellow citrus, fresh-cut quince and outstanding, salty length. Clos du Bourg lives up to its reputation as one of the Loire’s great vineyards with its saturating meadow flower and spice-flecked palate, full of complexity and tension. Bursting with zesty freshness to balance its supple mandarin orange fruit, a mesmerising Moelleux from the same vines is flat-out stunning.

 

We also had a hunt in the cellar and unearthed a small selection of the estate's game-changing off-dry and sweet wines, including museum releases and a couple of bottles of the hyper-rare Cuvée Constance, made only in the greatest sweet wine years from the estate's most concentrated botrytised fruit–a true wine unicorn!

 

The available wines are listed below, but quantities are limited. As always, first in, best dressed. 

The Wines

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu Sec 2023
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Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu Sec 2023

Le Haut Lieu was the estate’s first vineyard, purchased in 1928, and is situated on the Première Côte. As the name suggests, the house and the vineyards are located on a plateau with a slight south-facing gradient at one of the highest points of the appellation. It’s a nine-hectare plot on deep, brown, chalky clay (known as aubuis). Here, the yellow limestone (tuffeau) bedrock lies up to four metres down, making for a richer soil that produces round, supple wines that tend to drink well young. It generally produces the earliest maturing of the three cuvées and the first ready for drinking, but, like Clos du Bourg and Le Mont, the wines can be extremely long-lived. We have enjoyed bottles from the ’40s that are still drinking very well!

When young, these dry wines are pent-up, intense, mineral (chalky and/or smoky-fresh) whites that are wonderfully pure and racy. With age, the top examples mature at a snail’s pace to become some of the most intriguing dry whites on the planet. They go from the white flowers, citrus pith and crunchy fruit of youth to something deliciously honeyed, buttery, savoury and autumnal. The younger examples are go-to wines for anything involving seafood or white meat. For the technically minded, Huet’s secs have between 4 and 8 g/L residual sugar depending on the vintage, although the 2022 and 2023 wines dipped closer to the 3 g/L mark.

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu Sec 2023
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Domaine Huet Vouvray Clos du Bourg Sec 2023
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Domaine Huet Vouvray Clos du Bourg Sec 2023

Perched on the Première Côte just above the town of Vouvray, Clos du Bourg is a monopole and generally regarded as the greatest of the three Huet single vineyards. The domaine has farmed it since 1953 and purchased it in 1963. Clos du Bourg is arguably the greatest vineyard in the region, producing some of the most powerful, thrilling, long-lived white wines in Europe. With only one metre of topsoil over solid limestone, the vines tap almost immediately into the mineral resources underneath. The warmth of the site, combined with the mineral complexion of the soils, results in rich, super long-lived wines that seem to effortlessly combine intense minerality with generous texture and concentration.

When young, these dry wines are pent-up, intense, mineral (chalky and/or smoky-fresh) whites that are wonderfully pure and racy. With age, the top examples mature at a snail’s pace to become some of the most intriguing dry whites on the planet. They go from the white flowers, citrus pith and crunchy fruit of youth to something deliciously honeyed, buttery, savoury and autumnal. The younger examples are go-to wines for anything involving seafood or white meat. For the technically minded, Huet’s secs have between 4 and 8 g/L residual sugar depending on the vintage, although the 2022 and 2023 wines dipped closer to the 3 g/L mark.

Domaine Huet Vouvray Clos du Bourg Sec 2023
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Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Sec 2023
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Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Sec 2023

Recognised since the 15th century as being one of the most distinguished sites in the appellation, Le Mont was also known locally as Perruches, a local name for the greenish-tinged clay soils flecked with perrons, fist-sized pebbles of flint. Purchased in 1957, the steep, rocky, eight-hectare vineyard lies on Vouvray’s esteemed Première Côte, part of a bank of limestone-rich hillside vineyards overlooking Tours. This block's argilo-siliceux soils (stony, with green, mineral clays and flint over limestone) provide the tight structure and pungent minerality Le Mont is renowned for. With less clay (and a different type of clay) and more stone than Le Haut-Lieu, this site typically produces the nerviest wines in the Huet stable, so this vineyard mainly produces dry and off-dry whites.

When young, these dry wines are pent-up, intense, mineral (chalky and/or smoky-fresh) whites that are wonderfully pure and racy. With age, the top examples mature at a snail’s pace to become some of the most intriguing dry whites on the planet. They go from the white flowers, citrus pith and crunchy fruit of youth to something deliciously honeyed, buttery, savoury and autumnal. The younger examples are go-to wines for anything involving seafood or white meat. For the technically minded, Huet’s secs have between 4 and 8 g/L residual sugar depending on the vintage, although the 2022 and 2023 wines dipped closer to the 3 g/L mark.

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Sec 2023
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Domaine Huet Vouvray Clos du Bourg Moelleux 2023
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Domaine Huet Vouvray Clos du Bourg Moelleux 2023

Perched on the Première Côte just above the town of Vouvray, Clos du Bourg is a monopole and generally regarded as the greatest of the three Huet single vineyards. The domaine has farmed it since 1953 and purchased it in 1963. Clos du Bourg is arguably the greatest vineyard in the region, producing some of the most powerful, thrilling, long-lived white wines in Europe. With only one metre of topsoil over solid limestone, the vines tap almost immediately into the mineral resources underneath. The warmth of the site, combined with the mineral complexion of the soils, results in rich, super long-lived wines that seem to effortlessly combine intense minerality with generous texture and concentration.

Huet’s succulent moelleux wines (moelleux translates to ‘marrow-like’ and is pronounced ‘mweh-luh’) typically have between 40 and 60 g/L residual sugar. They are made mainly from grapes that have dried on the vine (passerillage) rather than those affected by botrytis. Huet’s moelleux wines can be remarkably fine and delicate—think of a great Mosel rather than a Sauternes for an idea of weight—and pair brilliantly with cheeses and a range of savoury meat dishes (only wines from the richest years work with fruit-based desserts).

Occasionally, in the top years, the sweeter première trie level is made from a berry-by-berry selection of the very ripest (often botrytis-affected) grapes. The balance is dumbfounding, and these mouthwatering, racy, transparent wines represent some of the greatest whites of France. The première trie wines can also work with desserts—but nothing too sweet (they’re better with cheeses).

Domaine Huet Vouvray Clos du Bourg Moelleux 2023
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Domaine Huet Vouvray Pétillant Brut 2019
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Domaine Huet Vouvray Pétillant Brut 2019

Only the best grower Champagnes have the kind of interest, sense of place and attention to detail this sparkling wine offers. Bottled at a low pressure of 2.5/3 atmospheres (most Champagnes are between five and six), this wine has a more delicate fizz than most. The fruit is all estate-grown (certified biodynamic) and comes from the youngest vines in Huet’s Première Côte vineyards. Crafted in a hybrid méthode ancestrale style (only natural sugar in the must was used for the second fermentation), it’s made in years that favour dry wine production.

Disgorged in October 2023 following 36 months on lees in the Huet cellars, the 2019 release has just over 1 g/L residual sugar and was dosed with the 2018 Le Haut Lieu Moelleux. To quote sparkling wine authority Peter Liem on the style: “It’s a magical, intensely expressive wine, and ridiculously inexpensive for the quality”. Let’s hear that again: ridiculously inexpensive for the quality. 2019 is a magical, fleshy mineral release for this benchmark Loire sparkling.

Domaine Huet Vouvray Pétillant Brut 2019
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Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu Demi-Sec 2022
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Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu Demi-Sec 2022

Le Haut-Lieu was the estate’s first vineyard, purchased in 1928. Situated on the Première Côte, it’s a 9-hectare plot on deep brown chalky clay (known as aubuis). Here the yellow limestone (tuffeau) bedrock lies up to four metres down, making for a richer soil that produces round, supple wines that can drink very well young. It generally produces the earliest maturing of the three cuvées and is usually ready to drink first, but, like Clos du Bourg and Le Mont, the wines can be extremely long-lived. We have enjoyed bottles from the ‘40s that are still drinking very well!

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu Demi-Sec 2022
Sold Out
Added
Domaine Huet Vouvray Clos du Bourg Demi-Sec 2022
Sold Out
Added

Domaine Huet Vouvray Clos du Bourg Demi-Sec 2022

Perched on the Première Côte just above the town of Vouvray, Clos du Bourg is a monopole and generally regarded as the greatest of the three Huet single vineyards. The domaine has farmed it since 1953 and purchased it in 1963. Clos du Bourg is arguably the greatest vineyard in the region, producing some of the most powerful, thrilling, long-lived white wines in Europe. With only one metre of topsoil over solid limestone, the vines tap almost immediately into the mineral resources underneath. The warmth of the site, combined with the mineral complexion of the soils, results in rich, super long-lived wines that seem to effortlessly combine intense minerality with generous texture and concentration.

Huet’s demi-secs typically fall between 18 and 25 g/L residual sugar (give or take a few grams), but the acidity makes the wines appear only just off-dry. These wines manage finesse and diamond-cut clarity, yet they are somehow open and welcoming at the same time. At the table, these wines pair beautifully with the spices of many Asian cuisines but are also brilliant with French or modern Australian cooking (from seafood through game and white meats to cheese).

Domaine Huet Vouvray Clos du Bourg Demi-Sec 2022
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Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Demi-Sec 2022
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Added

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Demi-Sec 2022

Recognised since the 15th century as being one of the most distinguished sites in the appellation, Le Mont was also known locally as Perruches, a local name for the greenish-tinged clay soils flecked with perrons, fist-sized pebbles of flint. Purchased in 1957, the steep, rocky, eight-hectare vineyard lies on Vouvray’s esteemed Première Côte, part of a bank of limestone-rich hillside vineyards overlooking Tours. This block's argilo-siliceux soils (stony, with green, mineral clays and flint over limestone) provide the tight structure and pungent minerality Le Mont is renowned for. With less clay (and a different type of clay) and more stone than Le Haut-Lieu, this site typically produces the nerviest wines in the Huet stable, so this vineyard mainly produces dry and off-dry whites.

Huet’s demi-secs typically fall between 18 and 25 g/L residual sugar (give or take a few grams), but the acidity makes the wines appear only just off-dry. These wines manage finesse and diamond-cut clarity, yet they are somehow open and welcoming at the same time. At the table, these wines pair beautifully with the spices of many Asian cuisines but are also brilliant with French or modern Australian cooking (from seafood through game and white meats to cheese).

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Demi-Sec 2022
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Added
Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut Lieu Moelleux Première Trie 2020
Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut Lieu Moelleux Première Trie 2020
Sold Out
Added

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut Lieu Moelleux Première Trie 2020

Le Haut Lieu was the estate’s first vineyard, purchased in 1928, and is situated on the Première Côte. As the name suggests, the house and the vineyards are located on a plateau with a slight south-facing gradient at one of the highest points of the appellation. It’s a nine-hectare plot on deep, brown, chalky clay (known as aubuis). Here, the yellow limestone (tuffeau) bedrock lies up to four metres down, making for a richer soil that produces round, supple wines that tend to drink well young. It generally produces the earliest maturing of the three cuvées and the first ready for drinking, but, like Clos du Bourg and Le Mont, the wines can be extremely long-lived. We have enjoyed bottles from the ’40s that are still drinking very well!

Huet’s succulent moelleux wines (moelleux translates to ‘marrow-like’ and is pronounced ‘mweh-luh’) typically have between 40 and 60 g/L residual sugar. They are made mainly from grapes that have dried on the vine (passerillage) rather than those affected by botrytis. Huet’s moelleux wines can be remarkably fine and delicate—think of a great Mosel rather than a Sauternes for an idea of weight—and pair brilliantly with cheeses and a range of savoury meat dishes (only wines from the richest years work with fruit-based desserts).

Occasionally, in the top years, the sweeter première trie level is made from a berry-by-berry selection of the very ripest (often botrytis-affected) grapes. The balance is dumbfounding, and these mouthwatering, racy, transparent wines represent some of the greatest whites of France. The première trie wines can also work with desserts—but nothing too sweet (they’re better with cheeses).

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut Lieu Moelleux Première Trie 2020
Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut Lieu Moelleux Première Trie 2020
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Added
Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux Première Trie 2020
Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux Première Trie 2020
Sold Out
Added

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux Première Trie 2020

Recognised since the 15th century as being one of the most distinguished sites in the appellation, Le Mont was also known locally as Perruches, a local name for the greenish-tinged clay soils flecked with perrons, fist-sized pebbles of flint. Purchased in 1957, the steep, rocky, eight-hectare vineyard lies on Vouvray’s esteemed Première Côte, part of a bank of limestone-rich hillside vineyards overlooking Tours. This block's argilo-siliceux soils (stony, with green, mineral clays and flint over limestone) provide the tight structure and pungent minerality Le Mont is renowned for. With less clay (and a different type of clay) and more stone than Le Haut-Lieu, this site typically produces the nerviest wines in the Huet stable, so this vineyard mainly produces dry and off-dry whites.

Huet’s succulent moelleux wines (moelleux translates to ‘marrow-like’ and is pronounced ‘mweh-luh’) typically have between 40 and 60 g/L residual sugar. They are made mainly from grapes that have dried on the vine (passerillage) rather than those affected by botrytis. Huet’s moelleux wines can be remarkably fine and delicate—think of a great Mosel rather than a Sauternes for an idea of weight—and pair brilliantly with cheeses and a range of savoury meat dishes (only wines from the richest years work with fruit-based desserts).

Occasionally, in the top years, the sweeter première trie level is made from a berry-by-berry selection of the very ripest (often botrytis-affected) grapes. The balance is dumbfounding, and these mouthwatering, racy, transparent wines represent some of the greatest whites of France. The première trie wines can also work with desserts—but nothing too sweet (they’re better with cheeses).

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux Première Trie 2020
Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux Première Trie 2020
Sold Out
Added
Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu Moelleux Première Trie 2022
Added

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu Moelleux Première Trie 2022

Le Haut Lieu was the estate’s first vineyard, purchased in 1928, and is situated on the Première Côte. As the name suggests, the house and the vineyards are located on a plateau with a slight south-facing gradient at one of the highest points of the appellation. It’s a nine-hectare plot on deep, brown, chalky clay (known as aubuis). Here, the yellow limestone (tuffeau) bedrock lies up to four metres down, making for a richer soil that produces round, supple wines that tend to drink well young. It generally produces the earliest maturing of the three cuvées and the first ready for drinking, but, like Clos du Bourg and Le Mont, the wines can be extremely long-lived. We have enjoyed bottles from the ’40s that are still drinking very well!

Huet’s succulent moelleux wines (moelleux translates to ‘marrow-like’ and is pronounced ‘mweh-luh’) typically have between 40 and 60 g/L residual sugar. They are made mainly from grapes that have dried on the vine (passerillage) rather than those affected by botrytis. Huet’s moelleux wines can be remarkably fine and delicate—think of a great Mosel rather than a Sauternes for an idea of weight—and pair brilliantly with cheeses and a range of savoury meat dishes (only wines from the richest years work with fruit-based desserts).

Occasionally, in the top years, the sweeter première trie level is made from a berry-by-berry selection of the very ripest (often botrytis-affected) grapes. The balance is dumbfounding, and these mouthwatering, racy, transparent wines represent some of the greatest whites of France. The première trie wines can also work with desserts—but nothing too sweet (they’re better with cheeses).

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu Moelleux Première Trie 2022
Added
Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu Moelleux 2003 (Museum Release)
Added

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu Moelleux 2003 (Museum Release)

Le Haut Lieu was the estate’s first vineyard, purchased in 1928, and is situated on the Première Côte. As the name suggests, the house and the vineyards are located on a plateau with a slight south-facing gradient at one of the highest points of the appellation. It’s a nine-hectare plot on deep, brown, chalky clay (known as aubuis). Here, the yellow limestone (tuffeau) bedrock lies up to four metres down, making for a richer soil that produces round, supple wines that tend to drink well young. It generally produces the earliest maturing of the three cuvées and the first ready for drinking, but, like Clos du Bourg and Le Mont, the wines can be extremely long-lived. We have enjoyed bottles from the ’40s that are still drinking very well!

Huet’s succulent moelleux wines (moelleux translates to ‘marrow-like’ and is pronounced ‘mweh-luh’) typically have between 40 and 60 g/L residual sugar. They are made mainly from grapes that have dried on the vine (passerillage) rather than those affected by botrytis. Huet’s moelleux wines can be remarkably fine and delicate—think of a great Mosel rather than a Sauternes for an idea of weight—and pair brilliantly with cheeses and a range of savoury meat dishes (only wines from the richest years work with fruit-based desserts).

Occasionally, in the top years, the sweeter première trie level is made from a berry-by-berry selection of the very ripest (often botrytis-affected) grapes. The balance is dumbfounding, and these mouthwatering, racy, transparent wines represent some of the greatest whites of France. The première trie wines can also work with desserts—but nothing too sweet (they’re better with cheeses).

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu Moelleux 2003 (Museum Release)
Added
Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux 2003 (Museum Release)
Added

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux 2003 (Museum Release)

Purchased in 1957, the steep, rocky, eight-hectare vineyard of Le Mont lies on Vouvray’s esteemed Première Côte, part of a bank of limestone-rich hillside vineyards overlooking Tours. This block's argilo-siliceux soils (stony with green mineral clays and flint over limestone) provide the tight structure and pungent minerality that Le Mont is renowned for. With less clay (and a different type of clay) and more stone than Le Haut-Lieu, this site typically produces the nerviest wines of the Huet stable, so mostly dry and off-dry whites are produced from this vineyard.

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux 2003 (Museum Release)
Added
Domaine Huet Vouvray Cuvée Constance 2018 (500ml)
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Domaine Huet Vouvray Cuvée Constance 2018 (500ml)

The pinnacle of Huet’s production was named after Gaston Huet’s mother, Constance, and ranks among the world’s greatest dessert wines. It’s only made in the greatest sweet-wine vintages, and 2018 is certainly one of those (and only the third bottling of the previous decade). It’s a blend of the most concentrated botrytised fruit from all three of Huet’s big-ticket vineyards (Le Mont, Le Haut-Lieu and Clos du Bourg).

This was raised half in used demi-muid, half in stainless steel, and finished fermenting with around 160 g/L residual sugar and 11.5% alcohol. Stunningly pure, intense and ethereal, this nectar floats across the palate with crystalline flavours of gingerbread, spice and quince jelly, closing with an energetic, precise finish that belies its latent power. Tasting is believing. It will live for at least another 50 years, yet it is a joy to drink now.

In short, even if you rarely drink sweet wines, you will never regret having this in your cellar.

Domaine Huet Vouvray Cuvée Constance 2018 (500ml)
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“No matter what the vintage or the wine style (including sparkling), the quality is always extraordinary and clearly reflects the excellence of their terroirs. The chiseled, contoured mouthfeel and precise minerality are unique in the Loire.” *** 2024 Guide Vert, La Revue du Vin de France (one of only eight domaines with the highest three-star rating).

“‘Domaine Huet’ means ‘I make the best damn Chenin Blanc on the planet’.” Mike Steinberger

“No matter the site or the sweetness level, there is an ethereal and elegant quality to these wines that defies scientific analysis.” Rebecca Gibb MW, Vinous

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