For anyone new to the party, this micro-Jura project is a partnership between David Croix―one of Burgundy’s young superstars―and his great mate, Damien Courbet. Courbet is Jura born and bred and manages his own family domaine in Nevy-sur-Seille, next door to the Château-Chalon appellation. The pair craft expressions of Savagnin ouillé (topped up) that emphasise purity and terroir rather than flor-aging notes. They make wines across the Côtes du Jura, with the wine in today’s offer coming from the appellation of Arbois. For those lucky enough to have tasted Croix’s frighteningly good Corton-Charlemagne, it will come as no surprise that the style of the wine hinges on purity and tension. Don’t come here looking for overtly oxidative Savagnin sous voile. On the contrary, this wine is kept topped and offers a pure, precise and mineral expression of the Jura terroir. While all the grapes are purchased, Croix and Courbet pay well over the market value, encouraging their growers to work as diligently as possible. The pair also choose the picking dates and oversee harvesting. In the cellar, the winemaking is strictly artisanal, with only native yeast ferments. Courbet believes that Savagnin is much more robust than Chardonnay and it certainly has lower pH’s as a rule, allowing the pair to keep sulphur doses to the bare minimum. Shaped by the vintage’s tiny yields and the electrifying freshness of the grapes, The En Chemenot 2021 is a dazzling wine―chiselled, racy and saline, with stone-sculpted texture (what a French taster might call eau de roche). If we were in Burgundy, such quality would be twice the price, if not more. If you’re keen (and you should be), please act fast—we have only a few cases to go around.