Verget

The first 2024 White Burgundies have landed!
Verget

Our first tranche of 2024 white Burgundies has begun to arrive, and Verget is setting the tone.

 

After a challenging growing season that reduced yields by around 30%, 2024 marks a return to a more classical expression of white Burgundy: delicious wines of modest alcohol, bright acidity and cool fruit flavours. In the hands of Jean-Marie Guffens and Julien Desplans, the result is a set of wines of striking purity: floral, finely textured and shaped by chalky tension. They are among the most compelling Vergets we have tasted in years. 

 

For many of our clients, Jean-Marie Guffens needs little introduction. An outspoken and fiercely independent thinker, he has long pursued clarity over fashion. He avoids reduction and heavy lees work, believing they obscure rather than reveal terroir. Bottled under screwcap to preserve freshness, his wines are defined by transparency and line. 

 

Today, the partnership between Jean-Marie Guffens and Julien Desplans, whose CV includes a stint at Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, has brought a new level of consistency and articulation to the Verget portfolio. Though Verget operates as a micro-négoce, fruit is harvested under Guffens’ direction, rigorously selected, and fermented naturally from free-run juices in stainless steel, allowing delicate lees work without oxygen influence. The aim is simple: fruit in its purest form. 

 

In 2024, that philosophy feels especially well-suited to the vintage. 

The Wines

Verget Mâcon-Pierreclos 2024
Verget Mâcon-Pierreclos 2024
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Verget Mâcon-Pierreclos 2024

Sitting at the crossroads between the Mâconnais and Beaujolais, Mâcon-Pierreclos owes its fame to Jean-Marie Guffens, whose wines under the Guffens-Heynen label (mainly from the Le Chavigne lieu-dit) match the best of the Côte de Beaune for intensity and character. So, it’s great to see this vineyard now appear under the Verget label. This négoce bottling is made from low-yielding vines over 50 years old. 

The vines are situated on particularly rich limestone at the top of the hillside. Made exclusively from first pressings and matured in foudres for eight months, the result is an alluring, balanced white Burgundy showing notes of citrus peel and poached pear set against a zippy, zesty core of fruit. There is a hint of good reduction here, just a touch of struck match that adds complexity to the fruit.

Verget Mâcon-Pierreclos 2024
Verget Mâcon-Pierreclos 2024
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Verget Pouilly-Fuissé Le Haut de la Roche 2024
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Verget Pouilly-Fuissé Le Haut de la Roche 2024

Located on the Roche de Vergisson, this exceptional vineyard missed out on Premier Cru status solely due to its altitude of 400 metres. Regardless, with its southeast exposure and stony limestone base, Jean-Marie Guffens considers the site far more worthy of the classification than many of the Mâcon’s new Premiers Crus. (Particularly considering global warming and the public’s thirst for fresher wines with lower alcohol.) The vines here were harvested at the very end of the vintage, with low yields bringing a marvellous core of compact fruit offset by a spine of ripe minerality and crunchy freshness. Vinified entirely in oak with 25% new barrels, it possesses excellent (Premier Cru!) intensity and length, silky texture and tension, with a long, palate-scraping finish.
Verget Pouilly-Fuissé Le Haut de la Roche 2024
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Verget Pouilly-Fuissé Terres de Pierres 2024
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Verget Pouilly-Fuissé Terres de Pierres 2024

Not be confused with the Mâcon-Villages of the same name (Verget releases multiple cuvées under the name Terres de Pierres, which means ‘stony land’), this cuvée is a blend of both free-run and press juices from a rollcall of excellent vineyards in Vergisson and Fuissé. Les Croux (exposed to the west) and the pressed juices of the Premier Crus Sur la Roche and Les Crays bring the cool, mineral line; the south-facing vines in Les Moulins and Les Littes contribute density and layered texture. So, you get both the steel and the silk. The wines fermented naturally and aged in stainless steel vats (70%) and used barrels for six months without stirring. 

The most steely and compact wine so far, it’s a wonderfully composed white Burgundy with citrus and mineral notes, a rocky, tightly wound texture and a piercing, long, chalk-drenched finish. It’s a wine of great class. Wine writer Gerald Asher once said: “If luxury is never cheap, pleasure need not be expensive.” So, if the price of top Meursault and Puligny leaves you giddy, you know what to do. This wine’s typical depth, power and complexity will be revealed with time. It is still a pleasure to drink now, but three-plus years of aging would be ideal.

Verget Pouilly-Fuissé Terres de Pierres 2024
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