Camille Thiriet

2023 Burgundies to "rivet you to the spot"
Camille Thiriet

Elevating the reputation of a relatively untapped Burgundy appellation is a rare thing. To do it as an outsider, from scratch, and on a modest budget is a whole other story. Tasting the new wines from this driven young grower, it is easy to forget that it was not long ago that Camille Thiriet vinified her first wines in a bootstrapped garage owned by her parents. That was in 2016. From those humble beginnings, Camille and her partner, Matt Chittick, now skilfully manage over six hectares in the villages of Corgoloin and Comblanchien, where they make some of the most expressive and exciting wines in the Côte de Nuits.
 
Situated between Beaune and Nuits-Saint-Georges, along with Premeaux-Prissey, these two under-the-radar villages comprise the appellation known as Côte de Nuits-Villages. As Camille explains in this soundbite, these terrific vineyards are not better known to Burgundy lovers thanks to a quirk of history more than the quality of the terroir. But make no mistake, Camille and Matt are making up for lost time.
 
We are far from alone in being bowled over by Thiriet’s wines. As Camille and Matt get their feet further under the table, their wines go from strength to strength. Harvested before the heavy storm of September 12th, the Domaine’s 2023s fermented with approximately 40% whole bunches, and extraction was limited to a few punch-downs using foot treading. The alcohol ranges between 12.5% and 13%, resulting in a style of Burgundy that we absolutely love: articulate, lacy wines with charming perfume, finesse and silken texture. Meanwhile, writing on Vinous, Neal Martin offers an idea of the quality of the whites: “If you want to throw your money at some of the ludicrously overpriced/overhyped Aligotés elsewhere, then be my guest, but Thiriet’s articulation of the variety is one I prefer to drink.”
 
Since all the wines in this offer fall under either generic or village appellations, the reviews and scores are extraordinary (and well-deserved). You may be surprised when you compare them pound for pound with the famous names of Chambolle, Vosne, Gevrey and the like. In short, Thiriet’s 2023s mark a wonderful set of wines made for Burgundy lovers by Burgundy lovers.

The Wines

Maison C. Thiriet Coteaux Bourguignons Rosay 2023
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Maison C. Thiriet Coteaux Bourguignons Rosay 2023

This beautiful rosé comes from hand-picked, old-vine Gamay from Corgoloin, slowly pressed and spontaneously fermented in barrel and tank. It’s such a brilliant wine, as seductive as it gets, with waves of red fruit, a creamy midpalate and a zesty, racy close. Simply put, it’s one of the finest rosé wines (or, in this case, Rosay) that we’ve ever shipped and as good as we’ve tasted from Burgundy.
Maison C. Thiriet Coteaux Bourguignons Rosay 2023
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Maison C. Thiriet Bourgogne Aligoté Du Jardin 2023
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Maison C. Thiriet Bourgogne Aligoté Du Jardin 2023

Du Jardin is a blend of old-vine Aligoté Doré from vines near Pommard and a second, 90-year-old parcel in Corgoloin. Thiriet refers to the latter as ‘my garden’. Then, there is a third plot, Les Basses Gouttes, in Meursault where the vines are 100 years old. The yield from these ancient vines is tiny, partly accounting for the aromatic intensity of this cuvée. The fruit is pressed together using a vertical press and raised in old oak (20% new) for nine months. A small yet decisive skin-contact component adds to the texture and wow factor.  It has super texture for the variety, terrific length and delicious, powdery grip to close.

Maison C. Thiriet Bourgogne Aligoté Du Jardin 2023
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Maison C. Thiriet Bourgogne Blanc Cuvée Confidentielle 2023
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Maison C. Thiriet Bourgogne Blanc Cuvée Confidentielle 2023

Camille’s négoce Bourgogne Blanc has been in the portfolio since her first vintage in 2016. The wine is so named because at the start Thiriet made such a tiny amount in her garage., The source can vary. Where 2022 was drawn from two historic contacts in Puligny-Montrachet and Mâcon-Villages, the new release comes from the rocky soils of Macon-Cruzille, one of the top villages of the Mâconnais. Drawn from vines reaching 100 years old, and made with 20% new barrels, this is simply terrific Bourgogne with loads of character, splendid texture and a vibrant finish.

Maison C. Thiriet Bourgogne Blanc Cuvée Confidentielle 2023
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Domaine Camille Thiriet Bourgogne Rouge En La Place 2023
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Domaine Camille Thiriet Bourgogne Rouge En La Place 2023

Thiriet’s Domaine Bourgogne Rouge stems from the same vineyard as the white wine—and the vines are even older. The vineyard’s name, La Sablière, refers to the sandy clay soils, partly explaining this wine’s beautiful, lifted perfume of summer fruits and red flowers. The vines are 90 years old, some even older, and Camille ferments this wine in concrete with 50% whole bunches layered at the bottom of the tank (so that any punchdowns and pumpovers won’t break the whole berries). Simply a stellar wine for this level: elegant, pure-fruited and vivid with a pretty, lacy structure and crunchy finish.

Domaine Camille Thiriet Bourgogne Rouge En La Place 2023
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Domaine Camille Thiriet Bourgogne Rouge Les Chagniots 2023
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Domaine Camille Thiriet Bourgogne Rouge Les Chagniots 2023

This comes from a small parcel of 60-year-old vines under the Domaine d’Ardhuy’s Clos des Langres in Corgoloin. The name Chagniots is often cited as a reference to small oak trees, though Chaignots denotes iron-rich minerals in the local patois, so here it could refer to the reddish soils high in iron oxide. This first release fermented with 60% bunches, and it’s delicious, sweet-fruited and seductive, yet with great class. It’s an expressive, character-filled red Burgundy for a great price.

Domaine Camille Thiriet Bourgogne Rouge Les Chagniots 2023
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Domaine Camille Thiriet Côte de Nuits-Villages Rouge Cuvée Deslandes 2023
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Domaine Camille Thiriet Côte de Nuits-Villages Rouge Cuvée Deslandes 2023

This super impressive red comes from 90-year-old Pinot vines (!) high on the slope of Comblanchien, not far from the Château de Comblanchien. Although drawn from a terroir called Le Creux de Sabon, Camille prefers to call this bottling Cuvée Deslandes in honour of an early benefactor—and, well, it’s easier to pronounce! The wine was vinified with 100% bunches, and a portion matured in stainless steel to capture as much of the vineyard’s delicate, floral aromatics as possible. There are echoes of old-school Dujac here, with the gorgeous red and blue fruit notes interwoven with lots of spice from the stems. Really impressive length, too. We’re not sure why there are no reviews, but this is clearly 1er Cru in all but name. Really, really delicious, classy wine.
Domaine Camille Thiriet Côte de Nuits-Villages Rouge Cuvée Deslandes 2023
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Domaine Camille Thiriet Côte de Nuits-Villages Rouge La Montagne 2023
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Domaine Camille Thiriet Côte de Nuits-Villages Rouge La Montagne 2023

Not to be confused with the Aux Montagnes négociant bottling, this comes from a high, estate-owned site (280 metres) on the Corgoloin-Ladoix border. La Montagne lies below Clos Magny and faces due east. The soils are light and dominated by sandy clay. In Camille’s words, the wine combines “the freshness and purity of Savigny with a little more depth and structure of the Côte de Nuits”. Really fine and perfumed yet with good depth, this has a cooler and slightly more structured persona than the Magny.

Domaine Camille Thiriet Côte de Nuits-Villages Rouge La Montagne 2023
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Domaine Camille Thiriet Côte de Nuits-Villages Rouge Clos Magny 2023
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Domaine Camille Thiriet Côte de Nuits-Villages Rouge Clos Magny 2023

This cuvée is from a small 0.8-hectare parcel within the larger Le Clos de Magny climat in Corgoloin. Thiriet’s plot is at the top of the slope at 350 metres and with very rocky soil. Surrounded by the forest, part of the vineyard is often in the shade, which Camille believes works in her favour in warmer years. Another idiosyncrasy is the mass of large boulders that run through the soil just under the surface. It all adds up to a unique terroir that gifts tiny berries and tiny, loose bunches, which in turn allows Camille to use 100% whole bunches.

Domaine Camille Thiriet Côte de Nuits-Villages Rouge Clos Magny 2023
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Domaine Camille Thiriet Côte de Nuits-Villages Rouge La Robignotte 2023
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Domaine Camille Thiriet Côte de Nuits-Villages Rouge La Robignotte 2023

This tiny 0.6-hectare monopole above the Corgoloin cemetery was the jewel in Gilles Jourdan’s portfolio. Now, Camille Thiriet wears the crown. The vineyard takes its name from the owner in Napoleonic times, and part of the site’s claim to fame is the rare outcropping of blue marl that imbues its wines with expectational longevity. It’s the only vineyard in the area with these rare soils. Camille told us she has tasted wines from 1957 and 1979 with the previous owner and was blown away by the quality. The vines in Thiriet’s plot average 60 years old, and Camille’s inaugural vintage fermented with 40% bunches. This is Thiriet’s most serious and complex wine: compact with deep, dark cherry fruit, roasted brown spice notes and fine, powdery tannins.

Domaine Camille Thiriet Côte de Nuits-Villages Rouge La Robignotte 2023
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