Domaine Camille Thiriet

A New Burgundy Star – from a Surprising Location!

It’s tough starting any venture from scratch, let alone a Burgundy domaine. But this is precisely what Camille Thiriet has done, starting as a négociant and building a domaine of six hectares in just six vintages (Thiriet’s first vintage was in 2016). But that’s not all this young grower has achieved. With her partner, Canadian-born winemaker Matt Chittick, Thiriet is now putting the terroirs of the two most southerly villages of the Côte de Nuits back on the fine wine map. These are two of Burgundy’s least-known villages: Corgoloin (estate) and Comblanchien (négociant), the first you drive past as you head north from the hill of Corton.

Matt and Camille’s passion is immediately obvious, and it has attracted support from locals like Jeremy Seysses of Domaine Dujac, Nicolas Potel and, even more amazingly, Bernard Noblet, retired Cellar Master of Domaine de la Romanée Conti. All have helped mentor this new estate. Matt and Camille are also close with the (soon-to-be retired) Didier Fornerol, arguably the finest estate of the Côte de Nuits-Villages.

The estate vines are all in Corgoloin, on the east and southeast-facing slopes and the same rocky, limestone and clay soils of the more famous villages to the north. Little wonder then that Camille Thiriet describes this village as “...amazing, underrated and unknown”.

Camille and Matt’s work in the vines reflects the blueprint of Burgundy’s current ‘Golden Generation’—the farming follows organic principles, and there are two horses (Obelix and Véga) used for some of the cultivation work. In their cellar, one in Comblanchien and now a second in Corgoloin, you will taste wines of great purity and freshness; the whites crunchy and saline and the reds loaded with candied red fruits, nettle and spice. Delicacy is the goal here; every fermenter is gently foot trodden with the aim being to infuse, rather than to extract. The use of new oak is capped at around 20% and the wines are bottled unfiltered with just a touch of sulphur dioxide.

The wines labelled as "Maison C. Thiriet" are négociant wines, mostly from Comblanchien, while those that are labelled "Domaine Camille Thiriet" are from estate vines in Corgoloin. A young producer striving for the highest quality, seeking to produce pure, perfumed, digestible wines and hoping to help reveal unknown terroirs to the world of Burgundy; it’s little wonder that we worked so hard to get an allocation from Domaine Camille Thiriet. They may not be that well known (yet), but just like those other pioneers we have mentioned above, fame is not far away.

The Range

Maison C. Thiriet Côte de Nuits Villages Deslandes 2021
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Maison C. Thiriet Côte de Nuits Villages Deslandes 2021

Natural cork. Although drawn from a terroir called La Julbigne, Camille prefers to call this bottling Cuvée Deslandes, in honour of an early benefactor and, well, the name of the vineyard is so hard to pronounce. The vines are not far from the Château de Comblanchien, and the wine was vinified with 50% whole bunches, layered amongst the destemmed berries in the fermenter. A proportion of the maturation was in stainless steel, to capture as much as possible of the vineyard’s delicate, floral aromatics.This is super, and again, indicative of the style of this producer and their terroir. If you love crunchy, bright and juicy Burgundy, packed with floral, red-fruited and sappy, whole bunch notes, you’ll be in heaven! Jasper’s note seriously undersells the pleasure on offer here. 

“Clear pale purple. The bouquet shows a fine floral note, really elegant, quite high acidity, peppery both from the whole bunches and lower end of ripeness. Keeps going through nicely at the finish. A little youthful bitterness, but promising.”
88 points, Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy
Maison C. Thiriet Côte de Nuits Villages Deslandes 2021
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Maison C. Thiriet Côte de Nuits Villages Aux Montagnes 2021
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Maison C. Thiriet Côte de Nuits Villages Aux Montagnes 2021

Natural cork. Aux Montagnes is a 4-hectare parcel lying directly below the Comblanchien Château and quarry. Sited on the belly of the slope, at 260-metres, there is only 25cm of clay-limestone before the vines tap directly into the bedrock. The clay here is quite red, with a high iron content. Thiriet works with a parcel of vines from Nicolas Potel’s holdings planted in the 1970s. While Camille and Matt had planned to destem this fruit, they noticed a healthy number of “super looking bunches”; so the final wine incorporates 15% whole bunch. This wine was raised with 20% new oak. Aux Montagnes was the first wine that Camille vinified when she started in 2016, and she remains convinced that, when treated with respect, it’s a site that gifts a wine of 1er Cru quality. The 2021 is a lovely bright, juicy Pinot, that introduces the ‘house style’ perfectly. It’s packed with raspberry and redcurrant fruit as well as plenty of spicy, nettle-like freshness and a long, smoky close. A fascinating introduction to the wines of Thiriet and to Comblanchien. 

“A brighter fresh purple. The bouquet is very seductive with extra class and intensity compared to Deslandes. Still floral but a bit more raspberry fruit density behind. She made a positive selection of a few whole bunches, but not much. Builds with a sweetness of fruit at the back. Still not musclebound but fine and elegant with enough intensity.”
89 points, Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy
Maison C. Thiriet Côte de Nuits Villages Aux Montagnes 2021
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Maison C. Thiriet Bourgogne Confidentielle Blanc 2021
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Maison C. Thiriet Bourgogne Confidentielle Blanc 2021

Diam. Camille’s Bourgogne Blanc has been in the portfolio since her first vintage in 2016. That year was drawn from an old-vine vineyard in Meursault, and since that time the sourcing has ranged from Puligny to Chablis. The 2021 is drawn from a plot of old vine Chardonnay next to Comblanchien (Chaux) which also includes some old Aligoté and Pinot Blanc, interplanted. The wine opens racy and punchy but keeps building with air, showing lovely mixed citrus and more and more stone fruit. The finish is cool, with a twist of pine-like freshness. A wine with loads of energy, loads of personality and a delicious crunchy close.   

“Ooh – that’s much more open and vibrant – 20% new oak here vs 10 for the aligoté. Again a lovely silky texture to this wine and it’s obviously concentrated too. Mineral dimensions of flavour in the finish too. Simply excellent wine.”
Bill Nanson, Burgundy Report
Maison C. Thiriet Bourgogne Confidentielle Blanc 2021
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“An engaging person with more than engaging wines – there is very high quality here – simply delicious wine. I’m struck by the seriousness of Camille’s approach and the quality of the wines that she’s been making. All the wines here show high-class textures, mouth-watering flavours and clarity of flavour. Great stuff – all of it!” Bill Nanson, Burgundy Report

“Originally, Camille was planning to train as a ‘nose’ in the perfume industry. This may explain the exceptional precision and class of her wines.” Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy

“[The wines] certainly over-deliver for their modest appellation.” Jancisrobinson.com

Country

France

Primary Region

Côte de Nuits

People

Winemakers: Camille Thiriet & Matt Chittick

Availability

National

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