Bondar

Top of the Crops: “Relentless Quality” Single Vineyard Grenache, Shiraz, Chardonnay and More
Bondar

Andre Bondar and Selina Kelley have had a great twelve months. Not only have their latest releases garnered significant praise from the likes of Ned Goodwin MW and Gary Walsh, but their still young label was included in The Wine Companion’s Top 100. The pair are immensely proud, and with words like these, why wouldn’t they be; “Forget, if you can, the fact that few wineries can match Bondar on value,” wrote Campbell Mattison. “Instead, concentrate on the fact that Bondar’s McLaren Vale wines are full of energy, drive, fruit power and more. Bondar’s wines are of such relentless quality that everything produced here is almost guaranteed to be good.” We could not have put it better ourselves.

The wines from Bondar’s Rayner vineyard have never tasted finer. Focused on soil health and bringing more structure to the inherent generosity gifted by Rayner’s sandy soils, Bondar’s intricate, organic-leaning approach to viticulture is paying ever-higher dividends. So much so that with Rayner ship-shape, Andre and Selina can now celebrate the best of McLaren Vale beyond their base camp.

Andre Bondar can’t hide his excitement that he is now working with Shiraz from the marquee Hickinbotham vineyard in Clarendon. Biodynamically farmed by Yangarra’s Pete Fraser and his elite viticultural team, this dry-grown site was first planted on rocky, ironstone-rich red soils in 1971. Clarendon sits considerably further inland than Bondar’s Rayner Vineyard, and at 250m, the cooler climate and unique soils produce a very different expression of Shiraz. “Hickinbotham is finer, with a ferrous quality and red fruits; there is a tightness and coiled power,” explains Andre. “It’s lighter in alcohol and more savoury and mineral—all the things I love in great Shiraz.” Bondar’s first release is nothing short of exceptional. 

This year also marks Bondar’s second Grenache from Sue Trott’s Wilpena vineyard in the heart of Blewitt Springs. Despite its proximity to Rayner, the site generates a darker fruit expression with more grip and structure, albeit rendered with considerable finesse. It’s another radiant, earth-to-glass wine from a variety Bondar believes translates the diverse altitudes, aspects, and soil types of McLaren Vale with the greatest fidelity. 

As for the vintages, the cooler conditions of 2022 and 2023 fit the Bondar style like a glove. Sure, yields could have been better, but the long hang times and ideal rainfalls provided model conditions to chase down the velvety elegance, lively freshness and heightened structural frame Bondar craves in its wines. “They are both great years for our wines,” he told us. When a self-effacing, tell-it-like-it-is grower like Andre Bondar uses the word great, you can take that to the bank. 

Below the full details on the single-vineyard wines, you can find a more comprehensive list of availability from Bondar. This includes the excellent value southern Rhône blend Junto and the Rosé 2023, recently dubbed “A benchmark mod-Oz rosé” by Young Gun Of Wine.

The Wines

Bondar Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2023
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Bondar Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2023

Bondar has made its incisive Chardonnay from the same vineyard in the Adelaide Hills since 2013. The source is the 30-year-old Rathmine vineyard in Echunga, which sits at 450 metres on stony, shallow clay loam over a limestone base. The fruit comes from the steep, east-facing slope planted with the Bernard 76 clone.

All of Bondar’s fruit is handpicked in the cool of the early morning, whole bunch-pressed and fermented naturally in older French oak, with one new Stockinger foudre accounting for approximately 25% of the blend. Bondar does not cool the fermentation to encourage mouthfeel and nutty, complex flavours. The picture is completed by full malolactic conversion and no stirring of the lees to preserve fruit purity. From the cool, late 2023 harvest, it’s perhaps the most coiled and bracing Chardonnay Bondar has released to date. Yet there’s so much fine texture and savoury flavour to balance the wine’s highwire energy. 




“Lime and lime rind, floral, nutty and spicy, almond and white peach. It’s a lively wine, excellent intensity, a bold and juicy cut of acidity, so much zing, yet folded into gently creamy nutty and biscuity folds of savoury goodness. There’s a slight struck match character, and the finish is all sweet lime and spice, with terrific length and saline spicy character. Classic fine-boned Hills Chardonnay here, and so lovely.”
95 points, Gary Walsh, The Wine Front
Bondar Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2023
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Bondar Rayner Vineyard Shiraz 2022
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Bondar Rayner Vineyard Shiraz 2022

This exceptional Shiraz is drawn from the two oldest blocks in the Rayner Vineyard, planted in 1950. Three-quarters of the fruit comes from Block 24 in the northeast corner of the vineyard, on deep sandy soils with ironstone rocks, dry-grown and organically managed. This portion gives wonderful fragrance and elegant structure. The remainder is cropped from Block 1, in the northwestern corner of the vineyard, laying in a cool gully. Dry-grown and organically managed, the shallow clay on the limestone base builds fine structure around the prettier, fleshier sandy portion.

Fermented wild with 20% whole bunches, the wine spent two weeks on skins before 18 months’ aging in mostly used French hogsheads (with 5% new oak as part of the final blend) and was bottled without fining or filtration.







“Blueberry, blackberry, mint and sage, seaweed, some liquorice and biscuit spice. It’s full-bodied, but only just, saline and savoury, black olive, sweet blue and black fruit, raspberry ripple, ripe fine-grained but insistent tannin, oyster shell and cool peppermint, it’s thoroughly regional but has depth and presence. Lots to like here, and it feels classic McLaren Vale in character, though turned out with a light and deft touch in the winery. Ripe tannin rolls out the red raspberry carpet on a finish of fine length.”
95 points, Gary Walsh, The Wine Front
“Among the finest shiraz in the Vale, with the meager volume, subsequent concentration and tannic delivery of 2022 serving the plush, aromatic, full-bodied style well. Boysenberries, anise, pepper and ferrous tannins, forceful without compromising the tenacious, juicy flow of the fruit. Textbook Vale shiraz.”
95 points, Ned Goodwin MW, jamessuckling.com
“Dense and inky core, deep purple at the rim. Mulberry, clove, iodine, and mocha aromas. Dense and weighty with plush blue and purple fruits driving the core. The fruit sits fresh and lively though, alongside clove and vanilla spices, with a deep iodine ferrous undercurrent. Fine grained tannins keep it rolling along and it finishes very long. It has a classic Vale plushness but without overworking the fruit. Honestly, a bargain at the price.”
95 points, Stuart Knox, The Real Review
Bondar Rayner Vineyard Shiraz 2022
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Bondar Rayner Vineyard Grenache 2023
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Bondar Rayner Vineyard Grenache 2023

Bondar’s high-toned and beautifully pure Grenache is sourced from the 1970 block in the Rayner Vineyard. The vines sit on very sandy soils (part of the Pirramimma sandstone geology) and are dry-grown and organically managed. Facing east on the site's western side, these low-yielding vines produce small bunches and berries and miss out on the hot late-afternoon sun during summer.

Seeking a pretty but savoury style, the Bondar team picks their Grenache fruit a little earlier than many of their peers, helping to capture the fruit’s red fruit and herbal characteristics. To further aid in building structure and longevity, 20% bunches are used in the natural ferments. The wine is aged for six months in ceramic eggs and French barrels. From the coolest of a troika of La Niña vintages, there’s more lacy red fruits this year even if the result is the same. This is McLaren Vale Grenache in its purest guise.

“Very good Grenache here, it’s lively and gently herbal, raspberry, ripe cherry and almond, quite some spice and dried flower perfume too, a fair bit of mint. Juicy ripe cherry and red fruit, the tannin is a little raspy and stony, and really adds something to the wine. There’s also some raspberry friand sweetness, and it offers mouth-perfume, and excellent length. It’s crisp, but flavoursome. It’s not Blewitt or Clarendon, but gee, it makes an emphatic statement about how good McLaren Vale Grenache can be. So lovely. Juciy juicy, Nice nice. I’m kind of 94.5 on this, but hey, let’s go.”
95 points, Gary Walsh, The Wine Front
Bondar Rayner Vineyard Grenache 2023
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Bondar Higher Springs Grenache 2022
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Bondar Higher Springs Grenache 2022

Sue Trott’s Wilpena vineyard lies in the heart of Blewitt Springs. The vines were planted in 1952 and are dry-grown on deep sand. It faces steeply east—an uncommon aspect in McLaren Vale—and so misses out on much of the warm late-afternoon sun. Of this site, Andre Bondar gushes: “Sometimes when you walk into a vineyard that is this beautiful, you can’t help but think that it must make amazing wine.”  Know that feeling, Dre.

According to Bondar, the Trott vineyard tends to a darker fruit profile than his Rayner site, alongside impressive power and structure. To this end, the parcel was split into two ferments, one with 80% bunches and the other with 10%, to aid in building fine structure and bring out the best of the site’s darker-fruited profile. Hand-bottled after 10 months in seasoned Stockinger demi-muid, it’s a shining, savoury expression that will continue to wow for years and years.






“Good depth of youthful colour, dark red and attractive. Meaty traditional grenache aromas meet the nose, rich and exotic, deep berry fruit, florals, spice and nutty old oak back it up. It's fleshy and ripe to taste, with lovely length and slightly mouth-puckering tannins in support. Delicious.”
95 points, Ralph Kyte-Powell, The Real Review
“Cherry, raspberry, almond, dried roses and thyme, with quite some spice and a little cedar. It’s medium-bodied, cherry and dried herb, a little blood orange in the mix, tannin is firm with a light graininess and grip, with a sappy freshness, and a dry pumice stone tannin finish of excellent length, some orange peel in the aftertaste. It has a good volume of fruit, yet its pretty savoury in style too, with an amaro twist. More to come, I expect.”
94+ points, Gary Walsh, The Wine Front
Bondar Higher Springs Grenache 2022
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Bondar Clarendon Shiraz 2022
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Bondar Clarendon Shiraz 2022

Andre Bondar can’t hide his excitement that he is now working with Shiraz from the famed Hickinbotham vineyard in Clarendon. Biodynamically farmed, this dry-grown elevated site was first planted on rocky, ironstone-rich red soils in 1971. It’s a revered site in SA circles, supplying Penfolds Grange, Eileen Hardy and Clarendon Hills, among others, over the years. Clarendon sits considerably further inland than Bondar’s Rayner Vineyard and, at 250m altitude, produces a very different expression of Shiraz. “It’s finer, with ferrous quality and red fruits; there is a tightness and coiled power,” explains Andre.

In a very Bondar way, the winemaking does not detract from the purity of the site. Around 30% bunches were used in the ferment, and 20% of the wine matured in a one-year-old Stockinger demi-muid. “Year one was an investigation into how this fruit looks relatively unhindered, and the results are beautiful,” says Bondar. “It gives us confidence to bring in some technique in the coming years.” It’s an intoxicating addition to Bondar’s already star-studded portfolio.





“All the blueberries, dried raspberry friand, spice, quite some perfume here too, along with black olive and thyme. It’s medium to full-bodied, somewhat earthy and ferrous, acidity feels bright but well settled, toasted hazelnut, iodine, with impeccable length. Wow, this is a wine of presence and intensity, though not at the expense of charm and drinkability. So good.”
96 points, Gary Walsh, The Wine Front
“Deep ruby core with a brightness of purple shining at the rim. Blackberry, smoked beef, and ironstone aromas. Blue fruits at its core, dark slate and beef stock complexities roll across the palate with a tight coil of power that will take time to unfurl. Even in its current state of tension, it lingers incredibly long and remains balanced to the end. Time in a decanter before serving will be well worth it.”
96 points, Stuart Knox, The Real Review
Bondar Clarendon Shiraz 2022
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Bondar Rosé 2023
Bondar Rosé 2023
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Bondar Rosé 2023

This year’s blend is a similar composition to the 2022: Grenache (84%), Cinsault (13%) and Counoise (3%). The lion’s share of the Grenache was grown on the sandy soils of the Rayner home vineyard with the balance coming from two growers, both with sites in Blewitt Springs on deep sandy soils, planted in 1975 and the mid-1990s respectively. The Cinsault and Counoise are grown on the Rayner vineyard.

In the cellar, Andre uses a variety of techniques to build complexity and texture. The Grenache from the growers, along with the Cinsault, Counoise and young-vine Grenache from the Rayner vineyard, fermented at cool temperatures to preserve bright, primary characters. Then, for weight and savoury character, the older-vine Grenache from the Rayner vineyard fermented at warm temperatures in old oak. The result is a fresh and pure rosé, with layers of flavour, lovely grip and a super clean, refreshing finish.

"A prettily pale but nonetheless insistent colour, this nails the Pantone swatch Platonic ideal of rosé hues. It goes a step further, too, embracing all the elements that one finds so intoxicating about rosé while never dipping into confection or frivolity. Watermelon, strawberry, redcurrant and peach fuzz feature on the nose and palate, while just enough flex in the mid-palate eases you in but doesn’t linger, keeping refreshment value high. A benchmark mod-Oz rosé.” Young Gun Of Wine
Young Gun Of Wine
Bondar Rosé 2023
Bondar Rosé 2023
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Bondar Junto Grenache Shiraz Mataro 2023
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Bondar Junto Grenache Shiraz Mataro 2023

Junto is Spanish for ‘together’, and in this case means a union of old friends: Grenache (65%), Shiraz (16%), Mataro (8%) and Carignan (3%). The Grenache is culled from three separate blocks: the lion’s share is from Bondar's own Rayner vineyard with the balance coming from the Trott Wilpena and Slattery Vineyards in Blewitt Springs. The Shiraz is also home-grown Rayner fruit (70-year-old vines on sand), while the Mataro was sourced from a grower in the foothills of Willunga on the famed Kurrajong soils. The tiny addition of Carignan was drawn from young plantings in the Rayner vineyard.

All the fruit was wild-fermented with approximately 20% whole-bunches, then raised in old oak for eight months. The blend was put together with the idea that Grenache heroes, with Shiraz supporting with flesh and the Mataro with spice, structure and tannin. The Carignan adds further finesse to the palate and contributes to the complexity. As always, Junto is a lively, vibrant wine with the restraint, energy and sheer drinkability that was once hardly known in the McLaren Vale.

"Frisky red fruited style with a smattering of dried herb and lemon zest. It’s light to medium-bodied, strawberry and orange rind, light grip of tannin, kind of edgy in character, though I like the fresh spiced and sappy strawberry thing it offers. There’s something like ozone or coal dust in the mix too, and the finish is lively, spicy and red fruited, with a Campari-like bitterness. Fun wine, could take a light chill even."
91 points, Gary Walsh, The Wine Front
“Made with approximately 20% whole bunch including a portion of carbonic maceration and matured in French hogsheads and puncheons (10% new). A medium-bodied, fragrant and elegant wine that opens up with red and black fruits, floral notes, pink peppercorns and blood orange. On the palate, this has real grip, intensity and persistence, and this will totally reward those who still have some in their cellar a decade from now.”
95 points, Philip Rich, The Wine Companion
Bondar Junto Grenache Shiraz Mataro 2023
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Bondar Violet Hour Shiraz 2022
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Bondar Violet Hour Shiraz 2022

Named after the evocative sky beneath which Andre Bondar and Selina Kelly picked the last Shiraz bunches for their first-ever release of this wine, Violet Hour is a blend of fruit from 10 blocks in Bondar’s Rayner vineyard. Each block has a different aspect and soils range from deep sand with ironstone rocks to clay over limestone. The Shiraz vines are some of the oldest on the property, reaching 70 years in some blocks—a key to understanding the depth and detail this wine can express.

Violet Hour encapsulates the Bondar style—fragrance, juicy fruit and lightness of touch. The winemaking is adapted to the season; both whole-bunch and destemmed fruit are used and the juice spends varying times on skins, depending on the block. The wine sees seasoned oak only, usually for 10 months. The result is a seemingly effortless, transparent and deeply expressive wine that perfectly captures site, season and the Bondar style.

Similar to 2021, vintage 2022 was a relatively cool season in McLaren Vale and facilitated a long, even and stress-free ripening period.  The result is a joyously fragrant and spice-driven Shiraz with svelte structure, bright acidity and length for days.

“Deep purple from core to rim. Blueberry, chocolate and cola aromas. Dark fruits, crushed violets and subtle pepper spice notes meld seamlessly with fine acid and dusty tannins to carry it long and lingering. A more modern style of McLaren Vale shiraz that offers a lighter touch, but still has that Vale sense of generosity. Great value here.”
92 points, Stuart Knox, The Real Review
“Fragrant and vivid, this comes off Rayner vineyard blocks planted mainly to deep, sandy soils. Batches are fermented with varying levels of bunches, berries and time on skins; 10 months in seasoned oak. The aim is to express the perfume that sandy soil can yield in the fruit, framed but unobstructed by elaboration to bottle. And what a success it is. Blackberry, blueberry, cherry and damson plum scented with purple florals, anise and clove, a ferrous mineral note tempering. Mid-weight, supple of texture but shored up with a fine, detailed net of tannin – and that mineral tension – this is harmonious and poised, everything serenely balanced, unstretched. To echo an earlier review, this is a tremendous bargain.”
95 points, Marcus Ellis, The Wine Companion
Bondar Violet Hour Shiraz 2022
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Bondar Monastrell 2022
Bondar Monastrell 2022
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Bondar Monastrell 2022

Bondar’s Monastrell is a limited release (only 100 dozen are made). It comes from fruit off the Lacey vineyard in Willunga, where rocky clay loam soils lie over the revered Kurrajong geology formation. The 15-year-old vines here are farmed with minimal inputs, and the winemaking follows a similar path, with hand-picking, no additions, and bottling unfined and unfiltered. A portion of the fruit was fermented as whole bunches, and maturation was for 13 months in seasoned French hogsheads.

Andre Bondar has chosen the moniker Monastrell rather than the more popular Mataro or Mourvèdre, as he aims for a more savoury, medium-bodied wine than the tannic beasts the region is known for.

It is brightly perfumed with berry fruits, exotic spices and enticing whole-bunch notes. The palate brings a more savoury and mineral layer to the warmly spiced fruit, fresh structure and vivid flavour. It leaves a lasting and forceful impression, so it’s easy to understand why this wine has garnered a cult-like following.

It is brightly perfumed with berry fruits, exotic spices and enticing whole-bunch notes. The palate brings a more savoury and mineral layer to the warmly spiced fruit, fresh structure and vivid flavour. It leaves a lasting and forceful impression, so it’s easy to understand why this wine has garnered a cult-like following.

"Deep purple-red colour; a straightforward but pleasant cherry-plum bouquet, a touch of pepper-spice, the palate sinewy and underlined by a thread of tannin bitterness, which helps cleanse the finish. This could well build more character with a bit of bottle-time."
89 points, Huon Hooke, The Real Review
“This is the parcel used in the Junto blend, but it was always a favourite component, thus warranting its own bottling. Some whole bunches and 13 months in older French. Monastrell (aka mataro and mourvèdre) can be gruff, dark-fruited, ruggedly herbal, tannic and a little wild. That makes for a great blending parcel, but while this carries echoes of those varietal attributes, it fits the Bondar frame of approachability coupled with subtly wrought complexity. Macerated dark cherries, blood plum, violet, iodine and a little dusty dark spice in the star anise, brown cardamom vein. Pulpy and fleshy, the balance is brokered by ferrous tannins and guiding acidity.”
93 points, Marcus Ellis, The Wine Companion
Bondar Monastrell 2022
Bondar Monastrell 2022
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Bondar Midnight Hour Shiraz 2022
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Bondar Midnight Hour Shiraz 2022

The Shiraz grapes for Midnight Hour are sourced from two blocks in Andre Bondar and Selina Kelly's own Rayner Vineyard. Planted in 1960 and 1990 on the Seaview side of the vineyard on red/brown clay over limestone, these vines are farmed using organic principles and without irrigation where possible. The soil and age of the vines result in smaller, more open canopies that allow for lots of sunlight to reach the developing bunches. This ensures that stems used in the fermentation are lignified, increasing the complexity of the finished wine. 

The 2022 vintage was similar to 2021. with La Niña driving a cooler-than-usual summer and autumn. Thankfully the wet conditions that can also be a feature of this weather pattern missed Bondar's McLaren Vale home. The cooler conditions delayed the start of vintage by two weeks, so the team was harvesting into the shorter days and longer nights of autumn. Given the stable ripening, Shiraz had more time on the vine, with no rush to pick. The resulting profile brings together red and black fruits with a lot of aromatic lift and a slightly lighter mouthfeel from the cool year. 

The bunches for Midnight Hour were harvested by hand and fermented with 100% of their stems. Andre and Selina learned the technique during their time working harvest in the northern Rhône. The wine from each batch aged in used French oak for 15 months. The result is a Shiraz with layers of complex flavour, yet an intriguing, textural, black fruit-laden palate.

“Deep, rich ruby red hue. Blueberry, dried morcilla, clove and beef bone aromas. Deep and weighty on the palate, all about savoury complexity over dark fruits. Drying beef, slate, iodine and roasting mushrooms all sit through the length of the palate, with a tight net of ripe tannins dialling up the pressure and drive. It stays with you for a long time, with a late lift of ripe blueberries cleaning the finish well. Serve it with beef rib roast and all will be good in your world.”
96 points, Stuart Knox, The Real Review
“Lots of smoky paprika spice here, blackberry pastille, dark cherry chocolate, some violet and mint, charred meat too. It’s fleshy and meaty, with distinct spice, medium to full-bodied, sage sausage flavour comes to mind, plenty of dry and grainy tannin grip, and it’s really quite different in character to your usual McLaren Vale Shiraz. The finish is a little bit salty, but has length and spicy tannin grip. There’s maybe a little too much whole bunch here, lending to dryness and coconut husk grip, though that’s an aside. The wine is good.”
93 points, Gary Walsh, The Wine Front
Bondar Midnight Hour Shiraz 2022
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“We often think of grenache as a style-choice: hefty or light, ripe or tart. The best ones seem to do both, swinging back and forth on the palate at once. At Bondar, sundrenched and sea breeze-swept, Andre and Selina’s Rayner vineyard captures the tension between those two poles in a generous manner. Fragrant, finessed and fruitful.” Jane Lopes & Jonathan Ross, “How to Drink Australian”



“Bondar makes a very modern set of wines that stress fragrance, poise, subtle complexity and mid-weight drinkability, but there’s a strong link to the past in the wines, too. While the reds are significantly fresher than styles of old, Bondar is not pushing hard in any particular direction, instead he cleverly builds structure, texture and detail producing wines that feel thoroughly familiar and strikingly new, too.” Young Gun of Wine, “Reinventing McLaren Vale”

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