It’s Bordeaux that chimes loudest when talk turns to California, such has been the impact of Napa Cabernet. In cooler climes such as Russian River, the echoes are of Burgundy. But if the Rhône registers as barely a murmur, it’s not for lack of class or character. Syrah shines on the Sonoma Coast, and the southern Rhône’s palette of spicy black grapes thrives on ancient bush vines beyond. Here are some cracking examples.“Pax Mahle is one of the most thoughtful, articulate winemakers in Sonoma,” wrote Antonio Galloni of our first feature producer. “I always find myself especially drawn to the Syrahs here, as the wines are incredibly site-specific and distinctive.” Mahle makes no secret of his love of layered, supple Syrah marrying vibrant aromas with savoury and mineral tones. “It needs to have that kind of, like, driving dark middle of meat and smoke and olive and rock and granite.,” he says. Spot-on.Eric Sussman of Radio-Coteau is perhaps best known for his Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, but the same stamp of quality and composure is everywhere you look. “Radio Coteau stands out in the Sonoma landscape for wines of exceptional purity, transparency and pedigree,” says Galloni. “Very few wineries excel at seemingly everything. Radio-Coteau is among them.” Eric himself sees Syrah as an unsung hero of the Sonoma Coast. “The wines are just very dynamic and layered, and there and there's so much depth. They're going to be around for the long haul.” His 2016 Dusty Lane wine is a prime example.The third feature producer is Birichino. Alex Krause and John Locke are alumni of quixotic Rhône-loving visionary Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon. Since 2008, they have been crafting delicious, expressive wines in their own right from California’s phenomenal, often overlooked, resource of historic vineyards. The effortless old-vine intensity shines in two blends offering refreshing brightness, piquant, dusty depths and beautifully handled tannins.