The source for the O.C. Semillon is low-yielding Oakey Creek (O.C.) Vineyard in southern-central Pokolbin, planted in 1998 on sandy/loam soils. After many years making ripe and generous Semillon from this site, Andrew Thomas realised this patch of shallow dirt was far more suited to creating a more classic Hunter Valley Semillon style. He has not looked back.

Stylistically, Andrew sees the O.C. as having the purest and most precise expression with a bright, long line of acidity. True to form, the ’25 bolts straight out the gate with waves of tangy citrus, lemongrass and subtle dried ginger notes, all underscored by that steely, wet river stone quality that Thomas eeks out with his modest, earth-to-glass winemaking. It’s just cracking value: starbright and vibrant and ready for the table. 

Located in the heart of Hunter Semillon’s dress circle, on the free-draining sandy flats of Pokolbin, Braemore is something of consecrated ground for fans of the variety and region. Having worked with Braemore fruit from his very first vintage (and every year since), when the opportunity to purchase the vineyard arose in 2017, Thomas jumped at the chance. And while today the vineyard contributes to several Thomas’ blends, it is the two wonderful single-vineyard wines—the Braemore Semillon and Cellar Reserve Semillon (released at six years old)—that shine the brightest.

Thomas is one of about 12 producers, including Tyrrell’s, on this narrow, two-kilometre strip of ‘Grand Cru’ Semillon soil. Once an ancient sea floor, the deep, sandy loam is free-draining, allowing the roots to dig deep. The site is renowned for producing some of the finest examples of classic Hunter Valley Semillon and is particularly famed for remarkable longevity. “The thing that sets Braemore apart, what gives it its longevity, is that extra level of intensity and concentration that comes from Semillon grown on this kind of soil,” Andrew explains.

The 2025 Braemore Semillon returns to a more classically shaped style after the riper '24, displaying all the purity, precision, and promise hallmarks of this pedigree vineyard. Crafted from only the harvest’s finest bunches and whole bunch pressed to minimise phenolics, it’s a model of Braemore’s tendency for fruit intensity and tightly wound energy: a wine that could match Thomas’ “unicorn” 2013 vintage. It’s already doling out the drinking pleasure and, in Andrew’s words, promises to be “an absolute belter for the cellar.”

The Synergy Semillon is a blend of high-quality, old-vine Semillon from throughout the Hunter Valley. The best parcels are chosen for the Thomas Wines single-vineyard Semillons, with the balance going into the Synergy blend. So, this great-value wine is crafted from seriously good raw material. The 2024 is a blend of Braemore (about 65%), with the balance from the Brycefield (in Lovedale) and Fordwich Hill vineyards. The fruit fermented in stainless steel. From a warm, sunny season, there’s riper fruit at play here than in the cooler preceding year. It’s juicy and punchy, with Thomas’s signature racy energy and zipline acidity. The price is difficult to comprehend in today’s market, but we’re not complaining!

The Two of a Kind bottlings from Thomas Wines are a tribute to the multi-regional blends that created some of Australia’s most famous wines in the 1950s and ’60s. The Hunter Valley Semillon portion of the blend (56%) is from an early-picked block on Braemore Vineyard, while the Sauvignon Blanc (44%) was sourced from the Adelaide Hills (from the Saint & Scholar/Kaesler Co. sites). The latter portion was pressed at Kaesler Wines and transported cold to the Hunter Valley. The components were blended as soon as possible and left briefly to mature on lees to build textural complexity. The wine was bottled early to preserve as much vivid freshness as possible.

Pristine, bell-clear citrus notes and light tropical fruits flow through with bouncy refreshment. There’s lovely balance between lively, fleshy texture and punchy flavour, all wrapped up by a thirst-quenching close—incredible value and perfect for warm, sunny days. 

Knowing his flagship Braemore Semillon gained such beauty and complexity with a few years in bottle, Andrew Thomas created the Cellar Release programme in 2001. A small portion of the vintage is held back for six years in bottle before release. “Braemore Semillon is like a spring that slowly unwinds over the years, revealing lovely light toast and hay characters,” Andrew explains. “The best vintages continue that trajectory for 15 years and more. After six years, the wine is hitting the first stage of development, and it’s a magical transformation.”

Planted in 1969, Braemore Vineyard sits on the sandy alluvial flats of Hermitage Road, Pokolbin. Once an ancient sea floor, the deep, sandy loam is free-draining, allowing the roots to dig deep. The site is renowned for producing some of the finest examples of classic Hunter Valley Semillon and is particularly famed for wines of remarkable longevity. Though at the start of its journey, it’s on the money right now, and it clearly has the legs to go another 10 or so years if you can find the patience.

Synergy Shiraz is a blend of old-vine Shiraz from several vineyards Andrew Thomas has been working with for many years. This year’s wine comprises fruit from Fordwich Hill Vineyard and a selection of ‘declassified’ parcels from the Cote D’or, Vanessa Vale and Black Cluster sites. The fruit cold-soaked for one to two days, followed by fermentation in stainless steel tanks and a 15-month maturation in 300-litre hogsheads.

Sitting at 13.6%, this is an impressively concentrated yet approachable medium-bodied Hunter Valley Shiraz. With classic, svelte Hunter blue fruits, some lifted spicy notes and a supple tannin structure, it screams out for a second glass.

Thomas's ‘Two of a Kind’ wines are a homage to the great multi-regional Australian blends in the 1950s and ’60s. Back then, these wines were among the best in this country. Winemaker Andrew Thomas makes a Semillon and Shiraz under the Two of a Kind label, blending fruit from South Australian regions with his own premium Hunter Valley material. The result is something truly unique and complex – you can take the boy out of McLaren Vale!

The Hunter component (51%) is sourced from the Fordwich Hill vineyard. The McLaren Vale component (49%) grew on Barry Clarke’s vineyard in the Blewitt Springs subregion. The fruit from each source fermented separately in stainless steel and the wines were blended soon after pressing. This 2022 Two of a Kind Shiraz matured for 16 months in 300-litre French hogsheads.

Thomas Wines put Sweetwater Vineyard on the map. Unfortunately, in 2016, the vineyard was sold, and in 2021, Thomas made the difficult decision not to renew his contract with the new owners. Fortunately, he had a contingency plan; in 2017, he had begun purchasing fruit from the adjacent, independently owned and operated Ridgeview Estate. “It’s a fantastic vineyard,” he told us. “The fruit has a lovely floral complexity among the red and blue fruits.” The fruit went into Thomas’s mailing list-exclusive Belford Shiraz until 2022, when Thomas felt ready to siphon it off to the Sweetwater label. In recognition, the wine’s name has been updated to Sweetwater Ridge.

Located in the Belford subregion of the Lower Hunter Valley, the old vines were planted in 1998 and are deep-rooted in the signature red/brown loam over limestone soils of the region. Thomas’s steeply sloped block faces east, providing some protection from the hot afternoon sun. Picked in mid-February, the fruit fermented as whole berries and was pressed to a selection of new, one-, two- and three-year-old French hogsheads. After 13 months’ maturation, the very best barrels were selected and blended before a further 11 months resting in bottle in readiness for release. 

First released in 2001, Thomas Wines’ flagship Shiraz is a single-vineyard wine sourced from the mature Pokolbin Estate Vineyard across the road from Brokenwood’s famed Graveyard Vineyard. The vines date back to 1969 and are planted on Hunter’s classic clay/loam soils, where the low-yielding vines produce fruit with exceptional depth and concentration.

As in 2021, the cool, wet conditions in 2022 demanded hard work in the vineyards. After three decades in the Hunter, Thomas is well-placed to navigate such hurdles. Crop-thinning is the norm in the Kiss vines, and in 2022, over 35% of the fruit was dropped post veraison. In the end, yields ended up at a paltry 28hl/ha―lower than those permitted for Grand Cru Burgundy. 

The fruit was picked in late February and fermented on skins for eight days before being pressed to French hogsheads (20% new) for 16 months’ maturation. The wine was held back for a further 10 months in bottle before release. Thomas describes Kiss as the introvert to Sweetwater’s extrovert, meaning, like many other top producers, his flagship wine is not necessarily his biggest or loudest. Expect a more reserved expression, sitting firmly in the medium-weight spectrum while holding just as much complexity and aging potential.