Swinney

The Farvie 2023s: "Incredible Focus & Precision" (Nick Ryan)
Swinney

The 2023 vintage was spectacular across Western Australia, particularly in Frankland River, and with that comes the most exciting set of Farvie wines yet. It’s been an even split between warm and cooler seasons since Farvie’s inaugural release in 2018. And while every vintage has its merits, Swinney winemaker, Rob Mann, points out that Western Australia is very consistent when it comes to quality. “My grandfather [the legendary Jack Mann] used to say it’s the only region where you can expect to have 100 great vintages a century.” Cooler years like 2019, 2021 and now 2023 give the Farvie wines a unique shape, spice and perfume. Berries and bunches were small across the board in ’23, resulting in wines of deep, inviting colour and gorgeous acidity, clarity of tannin and flavour, as well as the hallmark “ferrous, rusty nail character” Mann teases out of the gravelly ironstone ridges above the Frankland River.
 
Six years after the first release, Swinney now works exclusively with well-seasoned, large wood. “We’re not trying to make the biggest wines,” Mann explains. “We’re trying to make something subtle, complex and alluring.” Unencumbered by the flavours and tannins imparted by new oak barrels, Farvie’s success hinges almost entirely on vineyard expression. “We don't want to grow dense or heavy wines; we want to grow wines that are perfumed and elegant, that complement food and celebrate the origins and conditions of the year.” In other words, the first rule of Farvie is high-definition viticulture. The second rule is precise analogue winemaking. There is no third rule.
 
Much of Farvie’s success can be attributed to the Swinney family’s meticulous methods in the vineyard. Each member of the team—from Matt and Janelle Swinney to winemaker Rob Mann, viticulturist Rhys Thomas and everyone in between—works towards a singular goal: to craft benchmark Australian wines that stand toe-to-toe with the world’s greats. Their efforts reap exceptional rewards; the reviews and commentary leave no doubt that this is a very special set of wines.

The Wines

Swinney Farvie Grenache 2023
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Swinney Farvie Grenache 2023

Take a walk through Swinney’s untrellised Grenache bush vines, and things change about halfway down the block planted in 2004 on the estate’s upper northeast-facing hillside crest. The gravel gets deeper, and there is less clay. “That’s Farvie,” says Rob Mann. This fruit is different, too; it is more ferrous and mineral with fine, velvety tannins and so much complexity. Vines are picked over multiple passes, with only the best bunches from each vine—those sitting in the dappled light of the vine’s architecture—set aside for Farvie.

The bunches are berry sorted, then gravity-fed to French oak for natural fermentation, incorporating 30% bunches. Small bunches and berries in 2023 resulted in fruit of intense colour and concentration, so this year, the wine is 100% Grenache (previous releases have included small amounts of Mourvèdre). The wine spent 11 days on skins before being pressed to large, fine-grained, seasoned French oak vessels, where it matured for 10 months. Rob Mann was happily surprised with the depth of colour in this year’s release: “The bunches were loose, and the berries were small in 2023, so the colour is this amazing deep purple. It’s a freak of a wine,” he told us, “but a very exciting one.”


Swinney Farvie Grenache 2023
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Swinney Farvie Syrah 2023
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Swinney Farvie Syrah 2023

The 2023 Farvie was hand-harvested from a parcel of vines planted to Jack Mann’s heritage mass-selection Syrah. In the relatively cooler conditions of 2023, the wine is marked by a distinct Szechuan pepper, Cornas-like spice and structure, according to Mann. The fruit was sorted berry by berry in the winery, and again, in response to the cooler conditions, the bunch component was kept at a well-judged 55% (warmer years have seen up to 65% inclusion), to highlight the wine’s lightness of texture while also encouraging bright, spicy aromatics. Everything was gravity-fed to a French oak vat and demi-muids for wild fermentation. The wine spent 15 days on skins before being pressed to large, fine-grained, seasoned French oak, where it rested for 10 months before bottling.

Mann fosters the Farvie plot’s innate savoury, ironstone and ferrous character, pushing it to take a lead role in the wine. Importantly, no new oak is used in the Farvie Syrah. “I’m more interested in perfume, florals and personality than I am in the wine having heavy density and richness,” he explains. “By using no new oak, you have to think a bit harder about how to build complexity, structure and perfume in Syrah,” he goes on. “We build that complexity through viticulture, bunches and time on lees.”

Swinney Farvie Syrah 2023
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Swinney Farvie Mourvedre 2023
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Swinney Farvie Mourvedre 2023

Winemaker Rob Mann says this is “the most audacious, emotive wine” of the trio. It’s crafted from a draconian selection of dry-grown bush-vine bunches on the same kidney-shaped patch of dirt as the vines for the Farvie Grenache in the Wilson’s Pool Vineyard. The vines here face northeast on leaner topsoil and with a higher percentage of coarse lateritic gravel; the roots have now made it down into the clay beneath. Meticulous fruit-thinning and selective hand-harvesting over multiple passes ensures Swinney achieves fruit that is as close to perfect as possible.

As was the case in 2022, bunches and berries were small, requiring a moderation in the use of whole bunches in the ferment. Where this wine can sometimes be 100%, the proportion was a well-integrated 66% this year. According to Mann, the Farvie Mourvèdre works beautifully with stem inclusion. “It helps to balance the wildness, gaminess and rustiness of the fruit while accentuating the spice element of the wine.”

The wine spent 11 days on skins before being pressed to large, fine-grained, seasoned French oak vessels, where it matured for 10 months. It’s the wildest, most intoxicating of the three Farvie wines, compared evocatively by the maker to a deep dive into a 600-page novel.

Swinney Farvie Mourvedre 2023
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“Swinney’s Farvie wines are a tale of greatness.” James Halliday, The Weekend Australian, January 2024

“These top-tier wines, in just five vintages, have re-shaped the Australian wine landscape.”
Nick Ryan, The Weekend Australian

“In 2023 the Farvie trio has done something near-impossible. They have already taken three wines at the highest level and improved their lot. It is easy to loosen the wheel nuts on a car but almost impossible to tighten them further. This Swinney has done.”
Matthew Jukes, matthewjukes.com

“Swinney is in the process of making a very powerful statement about the Frankland River region via the delivery of these world-class wines.”
Erin Larkin, The Wine Advocate

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