We are delighted to offer our clients another note-perfect set of Rieslings from this flawless Rheingau grower. The wines look as exciting as any we have shipped in recent memory. The 2023 dry wines are a thing of Riesling beauty. A best-of-both-worlds kind of year where ripe and pristine fleshy fruit is counterbalanced to perfection by visceral, cool-climate energy and mouthwatering structure—low pHs and high tartaric were also a feature of the year. You could say they taste like a distillation of the best elements of 2021 and 2022, and they only become finer, more luminous and overtly mineral as you scale the heights of the remarkable eye-of-the-needle purity and mineral steel of the Turmberg Erste Lage and Gräfenberg Grosses Gewächs. The spine-tingling, gently sweet Gräfenberg Spätlese is also a total knockout. Bury these wines in a cool, dark place, and you will have a set of diamonds in time. Despite the quality in bottle, 2023 was not a year without jeopardy. In the summer, sunny, dry conditions played tag with rains—a recipe for disease pressure. “Working organically, you have to be on your toes; you have to be in front of everything,” Nicolas Langer-Pfaff of Weingut Robert Weil told us when visiting recently. “You have to act, not react.” The team's precise, timely actions—combined with old vines that regulate water supply by drawing on reserves from the forest above in dry times and slate-rich soils that provide optimal drainage in the wet—were handsomely repaid in ’23. When the growing gets tough, the tough get growing.