Bryan Martin is king of his hill. He’s been making some of Australia’s most compelling and highly sought-after wines for 20-plus years, first at Clonakilla, then at his own organic Ravensworth estate perched high in Murrumbateman. After so many great wines and high praise from press and trade, many might be tempted to rest on their laurels. Not Bryan. Here is a grower making some of the best wines of his career, as this 2022 Estate range makes clear. Bryan’s reputation was forged on the back of his exceptional, standard-setting Shiraz Viognier, Riesling and Sangiovese wines. This year, Gamay joins the Estate ranks. In recent years, top producers like Meadowbank, Bannockburn and Lethbridge have joined the growing pack of Aussie Gamay exponents. Quiet achiever that he is, you may not know that Bryan Martin has been a champion of the variety since 2015. Counting on a depth of experience producing Gamay from the wider Canberra District and with the variety’s ideal soil type―granite―prevalent at the Ravensworth farm, it was only a matter of time until an Estate edition popped up. In Mike Bennie’s words, the 2023 is a wine with “all the pleasure elements in place”. It’s a fabulous (though very limited) addition to this esteemed range. Since giving up his day job and going all-in at Ravensworth in 2018, Bryan has focused on getting his set-up to the point where the Estate wines―Riesling, Shiraz Viognier, Sangiovese, Grainery and Seven Months―rest for at least two years in vessel before being released. “That extra year is really important,” he told us. “It intensifies the aromatics, gives resolve to the texture and gives the wine a chance to come together.” Where many these days are rushing to release, Bryan has strolled in the opposite direction. It’s another feather in the cap of this experienced and committed grower, and the wines have found another gear. As Mike Bennie’s notes below highlight, these are wines worth getting excited about. They are captivatingly complex wines and offer incredible value, considering the quality. Contact Paul for more information or to make a purchase.