Mas de Libian

Pure Loveliness: The New 2024 Vin de Pétanque, Rosé & Friends
Mas de Libian

Talk about snatching glorious victory from the jaws of defeat. There were times during the 2024 season that Hélène Thibon worried she would not make any wine at all. Through sheer resilience, Mas de Libian harvested a decent crop, and one full of promise. Several growers in France, including a couple we work with, were not so fortunate.  Bertrand and Héloïse Gautherot at Champagne artisan Vouette et Sorbée couldn’t save any Pinot Noir at all; their story is one of many.

Twenty-twenty-four was THE most difficult vintage we’ve had in our careers!” Hélène told us. Fortunately, in today’s France, every challenging vintage has a silver lining. In 2024, that silver lining is vibrancy. Across France and Italy, earlier this year, we tasted young wine after young wine bursting with brightness and potential. We don’t know how the top cellaring wines will pan out, but we know that allocations will be small.

What we can talk about is the early drinking wines, which are drop-dead delicious: perfumed, bright and crunchy with moderate alcohol and alluring drink-me-now personalities. And few come more soulful than the new releases from this biodynamic Ardèche star. The headline acts are the feel-good, vivacious Vin de Pétanque and joy-in-a-bottle Rosé. But if you ask us, all the wines from this wonderful grower are worthy of their own front page. Each shows the Ardèche’s vocation for elegance and clarity in its purest form. They taste, if you will, like a beauty spot on the cheek of the Southern Rhône. “Our heart is in wine, and for most of the time it works,” says Hélène. It works, Hélène; don’t worry about that!

The Wines

Mas de Libian Vin de France Buve Z'en Rosé 2024
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Mas de Libian Vin de France Buve Z'en Rosé 2024

Biodynamic. This disarmingly pretty rosé is drawn from the estate’s younger vines—spread across a selection of Mas de Libian’s rocky terroirs—and comprises one-third each of Grenache, Counoise and Syrah. In our opinion, it is simply one of southern France's most appealing, mineral and delicious rosés. Absolutely nothing fancy in the winemaking. All three varieties are slowly pressed into tank after a short maceration and then fermented with wild yeasts. We’ve often said that drinking this wine is like drinking the landscape of the Ardeche in a bottle; garrigue-flecked cherry and wild strawberry fruit giving way to vibrating cranberry and ripe pink-grapefruit tang. There’s silky texture but also the crunch of bright acidity and mouthwatering, mineral-licked close. Think of it as Mas de Libian’s love letter to the world.
Mas de Libian Vin de France Buve Z'en Rosé 2024
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Mas de Libian Vin de France Vin de Pétanque 2024
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Mas de Libian Vin de France Vin de Pétanque 2024

Biodynamic. Sourced from an assortment of different terroirs—clay/limestone, galets roulés and sandy parcels—Mas de Libian’s airborne vin de soif is based on high-grown Grenache (75%) with roughly equal amounts of Mourvèdre and Syrah (all destemmed). There is also a little fruit from the estate’s decade-old plantings of two southern Rhône natives, Counoise and Vaccarèse and a splash of Couston (the natural offspring of Grenache and Aubun Noir).

Pétanque refers to the popular Provençal game of boules, and this wine is correspondingly built for splashing around with friends in casual settings. There’s a short, five-day maceration, and the wine is raised exclusively in concrete tanks. Bottled unfiltered, with only a smidge of sulphur employed, Delicious, crunchy freshness is the name of the game here.

The new release is a typically vivacious Vin de Pétanque (is there any other?) and born to go with anything off a smoking grill. With more crunch this year, you get the wine’s silky sweet cherry and garrigue-laced huckleberry fruit folded up in snappy juiciness and superfine wispy tannin. A cracking release of the most irresistibly gulpable red we ship from France.

Mas de Libian Vin de France Vin de Pétanque 2024
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Mas de Libian Vin de France Cave Vinum Blanc 2023
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Mas de Libian Vin de France Cave Vinum Blanc 2023

Biodynamic. Hélène Thibon’s small-batch white comes from a blend of low-cropped, hand-harvested Roussanne, Viognier and old vine Clairette planted in the 1940s. For freshness, there’s even a little Vermentino and Chenin blended in these days. The Clairette and Roussanne are raised in Stockinger cask after a brief maceration on skins for tang and structure.

The latest release is another example of how sophisticated the whites from this part of France can be in the right hands. It’s a wonderfully aromatic release, full of yellow florals and orchard fruit aromas and a pulpy, refreshing mouthfeel sporting food-friendly savoury notes and grip on the juicy, whistle-clean finish. Lovely stuff. Hélène Thibon suggests serving this with “chèvre, fleshier cheese, or classic Mediterranean fish dishes. This is a white wine that can hold its own against a bit of garlic (though don’t get carried away).” From experience, we’ll throw terrine and grilled fish into the mix. Bon appétit.

Mas de Libian Vin de France Cave Vinum Blanc 2023
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Mas de Libian Côtes du Rhône Bout d'Zan Rouge 2023
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Mas de Libian Côtes du Rhône Bout d'Zan Rouge 2023

Biodynamic. This gem has become one of the smartest buys in our portfolio. It’s drawn from 40-year-old biodynamically managed vines rooted in a range of Mas de Libian’s highland Ardèche soils: some galets roulés (rolled alluvial ‘pudding stones’), some sandy clay and some lower-lying parcels on limestone soils. Give or take a few bunches, the blend is 75% Grenache with 25% Syrah. The varieties co-ferment—current generational custodian, Hélène Thibon’s father once told her, “The earlier you consummate the marriage, the better the relationship!”—and raised in a mix of Stockinger foudre and cement vats. Thibon included some ripe Syrah stems in this year's ferment to add freshness and lift.

Bout d’Zan is always packed with flavour and tongue-rolling texture offset by wonderful energy, poppy-edged freshness and high-country finesse. The new release is particularly easy to love: the silky waves of liquorice-spiked blackberry fruit; the creamy core woven with savoury minerals and finely spun tannin; and the energetic, smoky red berried lift on the finish. Another beauty spot on the cheek of the Southern Rhône.

Mas de Libian Côtes du Rhône Bout d'Zan Rouge 2023
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Mas de Libian Côtes du Rhône Khayyâm 2022
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Mas de Libian Côtes du Rhône Khayyâm 2022

Biodynamic. This wine is named in honour of the 11th-century Persian poet, philosopher, booze hound and mathematician Omar Khayyam. This vibrant, supple bottling comes entirely from a single highland plot above the house at the top of the Saint Marcel d'Ardèche plateau. Surrounded by forest, the site is littered with galets roulés and was planted between 1960 and 1980—mainly to Grenache, with 15% Syrah and 15% Mourvèdre. Some 50% of the wine aged in large casks on lees, bringing a seductive, supple, layered texture to the bright, food-friendly structure.

We’re gonna hypothesise that old Omar, a card-carrying hedonist, would appreciate this vintage. It’s an opulent, fleshy release loaded with dark cherry, dusky florals and Moroccan spice notes framed by sufficient tannins to give shape to the fruitiness. Hélène introduces this wine as her most oriental, the spiciest, the sultriest; it makes perfect winter drinking paired with stews and slow-cooked braises. If you're feeling adventurous, hunt down some caul fat from Jerome and Annabelle Hoban and tackle the region’s delicacy, Caillette. P.S. Decant for at least an hour (the longer, the better) before serving. 

Mas de Libian Côtes du Rhône Khayyâm 2022
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