Domaine Chermette

2023 & 2024 Beaujolais: “… Among the Finest Values that can be Found in French Wine” [William Kelley]
Domaine Chermette

We had a terrific introduction to Beaujolais’ 2023 vintage earlier this year. Visiting our growers, and many others, it was clear that most producers enjoyed the semi-luxury of making the style of wine they wanted to. Those who preferred pep and freshness started harvesting in the first days of September, capturing freshness to marry the season’s ripeness. Others, favouring power and depth, hung on as sugar levels rose and acidities softened. 

 

Chermette’s flag is nailed to the former camp, and this grower’s wines are even more drinkable and elegant than their 2022 counterparts. All the producers we met felt their 2023 wines were truer to site than the previous years. Reflecting today’s topsy-turvy extremes of making wine in France, 2024 was a different beast altogether. The conditions—a cool, rainy start followed by a textbook end to the season—favoured the kind of delicate, super-vibrant and mouthwatering wines of a classical season. L’Esprit du Beaujolais! 

 

Jean-Etienne Chermette has now assumed the day-to-day running of the Domaine. Not that his parents, Pierre-Marie and Martine Chermette, have gone very far. On the day we visited, Pierre-Marie delivered wine to the Domaine’s clients in Lyon, while Marie hosted a sommelier from Sicily. Jean-Etienne has been working with his parents for almost ten years, so we shouldn’t expect a seismic change in spirit.

The Wines

Domaine Chermette Crémant de Bourgogne Brut NV (Base 2023)
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Domaine Chermette Crémant de Bourgogne Brut NV (Base 2023)

This dry sparkling wine is 100% Chardonnay from a single parcel of vines just north of the Chermette cellars in Le Bois-d’Oingt. It’s a 2.5-hectare, southwest-facing site on limestone/clay soil—perfect for Chardonnay. The wine ages for 18 months in bottle with minimal sulphur .  It is neither fined nor filtered, and very little dosage is added (4 g/L). The current disgorgement is a blend of 2021, 2022 and 2023. As always, we love the combination of juicy orchard fruit, fine airy bubbles and the wine’s fresh, sculpted energy. If you don’t know this wine, do yourself a favour; quality methode champenoise at this price is a rare bird.  
Domaine Chermette Crémant de Bourgogne Brut NV (Base 2023)
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Domaine Chermette Beaujolais Les Griottes 2023
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Domaine Chermette Beaujolais Les Griottes 2023

This mouthwatering crowd-pleaser is named after a grove of cherry trees that flank the vineyard. The fruit is drawn from 30- to 40-year-old Gamay vines, grown in dark granite soils around the Chermette homestead in Saint-Vérand, southern Beaujolais. In contrast to his age-worthy Crus from Moulin-à-Vent and Fleurie et al., Chermette aims to produce something light-to-medium-bodied, bright and cherry-fruited with reach-for-another-glass charm.

The winemaking has remained unchanged for decades, with traditional whole-bunch, semi-carbonic fermentation in concrete tanks followed by maturation in tank and old oak casks still the order of the day. The nose is so exuberant you could be tasting out of barrel, flush with easy-going, lip-smacking red fruit flecked by red floral notes. The palate tells the same story through waves of vibrant, tangy berries and cherrystone fruit. As always, it is a delicious, moreish wine and fabulous value.

Domaine Chermette Beaujolais Les Griottes 2023
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Domaine Chermette Beaujolais Les Griottes 2024 (375ml)
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Domaine Chermette Beaujolais Les Griottes 2024 (375ml)

This mouthwatering crowd-pleaser is named after a grove of cherry trees that flank the vineyard. The fruit comes from 30- to 40-year-old Gamay vines, grown in dark granite soils around the Chermette homestead in Saint-Vérand, southern Beaujolais. In contrast to his age-worthy Crus from Moulin-à-Vent and Fleurie et al., Chermette aims to produce something light-to-medium-bodied, bright and cherry-fruited with reach-for-another-glass charm.

The winemaking has remained unchanged for decades. Traditional whole-bunch, semi-carbonic fermentation in concrete tanks followed by maturation in tank and old oak casks are still the order of the day. 

Domaine Chermette Beaujolais Les Griottes 2024 (375ml)
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Domaine Chermette Beaujolais Les Griottes 2024 (1500ml)
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Domaine Chermette Beaujolais Les Griottes 2024 (1500ml)

This mouthwatering crowd-pleaser is named after a grove of cherry trees that flank the vineyard. The fruit comes from 30- to 40-year-old Gamay vines, grown in dark granite soils around the Chermette homestead in Saint-Vérand, southern Beaujolais. In contrast to his age-worthy Crus from Moulin-à-Vent and Fleurie et al., Chermette aims to produce something light-to-medium-bodied, bright and cherry-fruited with reach-for-another-glass charm.

The winemaking has remained unchanged for decades. Traditional whole-bunch, semi-carbonic fermentation in concrete tanks followed by maturation in tank and old oak casks are still the order of the day.

Domaine Chermette Beaujolais Les Griottes 2024 (1500ml)
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Domaine Chermette Les Griottes 5 Litre Box Bag 2024 (5000ml Bag-in-Box)
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Domaine Chermette Les Griottes 5 Litre Box Bag 2024 (5000ml Bag-in-Box)

This mouthwatering crowd-pleaser is named after a grove of cherry trees that flank the vineyard. The fruit comes from 30- to 40-year-old Gamay vines, grown in dark granite soils around the Chermette homestead in Saint-Vérand, southern Beaujolais. In contrast to his age-worthy Crus from Moulin-à-Vent and Fleurie et al., Chermette aims to produce something light-to-medium-bodied, bright and cherry-fruited with reach-for-another-glass charm.

The winemaking has remained unchanged for decades. Traditional whole-bunch, semi-carbonic fermentation in concrete tanks followed by maturation in tank and old oak casks are still the order of the day.

Domaine Chermette Les Griottes 5 Litre Box Bag 2024 (5000ml Bag-in-Box)
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Domaine Chermette Brouilly Pierreux 2023
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Domaine Chermette Brouilly Pierreux 2023

Martine Chermette’s grandmother was born and raised among the vines at Pierreux, just outside the small hamlet of Odenas. As Martine puts it: “For sentimental reasons [we] couldn’t resist buying this little plot of vines at the foot of Mont Brouilly.” They chose well. Chermette tends just 1.5 hectares of vines at the base of Mont Brouilly with 60-year-old roots delving deep into the eroded granite and bluestone that has been washed down from the mountain over millennia. The name Pierreux comes from the word pierres (‘stones’), illustrating the makeup of the soil. The new release is already leaping out the glass with oodles of juicy, crisp-edged blue fruits framed by elegant, powdery tannins and that crushed stone minerality that Chermette attributes to the volcanic blue andesite stones. 
Domaine Chermette Brouilly Pierreux 2023
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Domaine Chermette Fleurie Poncié 2023
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Domaine Chermette Fleurie Poncié 2023

The Poncié cuvée is drawn from a beautiful 4.5-hectare site of 45-year-old vines on pink granite soils. It is Chermette’s most seductive and graceful Cru bottling, especially when young. Poncié is one of a handful of celebrated highland terroirs along the ridge situated high above the village (Roche Guillon is another). With good reason, it is one of seven vineyards in Fleurie that has recently been put forward for Premier Cru status. The winemaking remains traditional, with natural, whole-bunch ferments in large, concrete vats and aging in large, old foudres. Beautifully pitched, with flashes of strawberry and goji berry, it’s a fine and almost classical example of a wine Pierre-Marie Chermette likes to describe as “élégant et aérien,” elegant and lifted. 


“Starting direct but opening with an attractive perfume. Fine in the mouth, melting, a little fluid – becoming juicy—another simply excellent—wine—love it !!” Bill Nanson, Burgundy Report

Domaine Chermette Fleurie Poncié 2023
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Domaine Chermette Fleurie Poncié 2023 (375ml)
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Domaine Chermette Fleurie Poncié 2023 (375ml)

The Poncié cuvée is drawn from a beautiful 4.5-hectare site of 45-year-old vines on pink granite soils. It is Chermette’s most seductive and graceful Cru bottling, especially when young. Poncié is one of a handful of celebrated highland terroirs along the ridge situated high above the village (Roche Guillon is another). With good reason, it is one of seven vineyards in Fleurie that has recently been put forward for Premier Cru status. The winemaking remains traditional, with natural, whole-bunch ferments in large, concrete vats and aging in large, old foudres. Beautifully pitched, with flashes of strawberry and goji berry, it’s a fine and almost classical example of a wine Pierre-Marie Chermette likes to describe as “élégant et aérien,” elegant and lifted. 

Domaine Chermette Fleurie Poncié 2023 (375ml)
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Domaine Chermette Fleurie Poncié 2023 (1500ml)
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Domaine Chermette Fleurie Poncié 2023 (1500ml)

The Poncié cuvée is drawn from a beautiful 4.5-hectare site of 45-year-old vines on pink granite soils. It is Chermette’s most seductive and graceful Cru bottling, especially when young. Poncié is one of a handful of celebrated highland terroirs along the ridge situated high above the village (Roche Guillon is another). With good reason, it is one of seven vineyards in Fleurie that has recently been put forward for Premier Cru status. The winemaking remains traditional, with natural, whole-bunch ferments in large, concrete vats and aging in large, old foudres. Beautifully pitched, with flashes of strawberry and goji berry, it’s a fine and almost classical example of a wine Pierre-Marie Chermette likes to describe as “élégant et aérien,” elegant and lifted.

Domaine Chermette Fleurie Poncié 2023 (1500ml)
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Domaine Chermette Saint-Amour Les Champs-Grillés 2023
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Domaine Chermette Saint-Amour Les Champs-Grillés 2023

The newest star in the Chermette firmament, Pierre-Marie’s Saint-Amour comes from a tiny parcel of 50-year-old vines from the Champs-Grillés climat (which covers a total of just three hectares). The parcel was offered to Chermette by an old friend who could no longer manage the Bessay Mountain’s steep aspect . Saint-Amour’s soils include areas of granite, and varying quantities of clay and limestone—a mix said to produce lighter, more delicate wines. Chermette’s vines, however, are all rooted in the classic decomposed granite. The old vines, low yields and high, southeast-facing aspect beget a surprisingly intense wine, which combines the lacy muscle of this grower’s Moulin-à-Vent with the lifted perfume of the Fleurie. It’s a racy, succulent Saint-Amour full of supple, red fruit kissed by blood orange and clove-like spice. With just the right amount of tannin and acidity, this wine shows its class.
Domaine Chermette Saint-Amour Les Champs-Grillés 2023
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Domaine Chermette Moulin-à-Vent Les Trois Roches 2023
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Domaine Chermette Moulin-à-Vent Les Trois Roches 2023

Les Trois Roches is named for the three rocky parcels of vines from which it derives—Rochegrès, Roche Noire and Rochelle. The average age of these vines is now more than 40 years. Pierre-Marie points out that La Rochelle (which overlooks the famous windmill) brings structure, whereas the east-facing Rochegrès contributes finesse and supple tannins, and the Roche Noire grapes bring liveliness and juicy fruit. A common feature of these sites is the concentration of manganese in the soils, which delivers an unmistakable mineral thread that runs through the wine. Unlike Chermette’s other Crus, the Moulin-à-Vent undergoes a portion of barrique aging (15%), which gives you some idea of this Cru’s intense personality. Expect mineral-infused cherry skin and fresh earth sustained by supple tannins and lots of juicy, smoky grip on the finish. This should age beautifully if you can keep your hands off it.

Domaine Chermette Moulin-à-Vent Les Trois Roches 2023
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“Old vines, diligent but traditional vinification and élevage in foudre are the rudiments of the approach. To my palate, some of the cuvées reviewed here number among the finest values that can be found in French wine.”William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

“The wines produced by Martine and Pierre-Marie Chermette at Domaine du Vissoux have been consistently in the top tier of Beaujolais since at least the 1989 vintage, which I first tasted in 1990.”Josh Raynolds, Vinous

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