“The exceptionally high quality of the Barbarescos here is no longer news, as the wines have been superb for many years… If this were a younger and more fashionable estate, Albino Rocca would be a darling of wine lovers and sommeliers alike, the sort of buzzy estate everyone talks about. The Barbarescos in particular are certainly deserving of that sort of attention.” Antonio Galloni, Vinous Reading Galloni’s words, it’s hard not to think of Angelo Rocca, who passed away suddenly in 2012. In his final years, he had already begun to reconsider the stylistic path briefly explored at the estate. Like many of his contemporaries, he engaged with the modern wave that swept through Piemonte in the late twentieth century, before gently guiding Albino Rocca back toward a more classical expression of Barbaresco—wines of clarity, proportion and quiet authority. Today, his daughters—Daniela, Paola and Monica—have fully realised that vision. The estate feels both grounded and renewed, where tradition serves as a compass rather than a constraint. Large oak botti remain central, with wooden fermenters and longer macerations now playing an increasing role. Under Paola Rocca, working alongside her partner and long-time cellar master Carlo Castellano, the wines have reached an especially compelling place. As Daniela notes, “the expression, elegance and purity have all been heightened.” This progress is mirrored in the vineyards, where the family continues to adapt thoughtfully to a changing climate.The 2022 Barbarescos are a superb reflection of this work. A dry season (just 400mm of rain) and an early harvest—completed by September 29—have yielded wines of striking balance and aromatic lift. There is generosity, but also finesse and beautifully judged tannins that will appeal to traditionalists. They will reward cellaring, yet are already immensely appealing. It’s telling that Galloni himself reportedly left with bottles for his own cellar. The supporting cast is equally impressive. From the cooler, later 2024 vintage (harvest finished October 14), the entry-level wines bring freshness, energy and vivid perfume—wines that speak clearly of place while continuing to offer compelling value.