With spring comes Semillon. The 2024 season went by in a flash, and the wines are raring to go. Andrew Thomas can't recall an earlier harvest in his four decades making wine in the Hunter Valley. “It was a season to hold your nerve and wait for the flavour,” he told us. “Our focus is on flavour and acidity. After so many years in the valley, we’ve dialled in the picking dates; we wait until the fruit pushes through the herbal spectrum into vibrant, delicious citrus.” Windy weather at flowering meant crops were down by 40% in 2024, but Thomas couldn’t be happier with fruit quality and these fresh, vibrantly structured Semillons. Andrew cemented his reputation long ago as one of the Hunter’s great producers, yet his standing continues to rise. The 2024 vintage marks the 25th edition of Braemore, his flagship Semillon. The Cellar Reserve from this iconic vineyard, released after six years in bottle, has just been awarded Three Merit status in The Real Review Wine Classification of Australia. This places it in prestigious company alongside Giaconda Chardonnay, Mount Mary Quintet and Wendouree Shiraz. The only other Semillon to hold this rank is Tyrrell’s Vat 1. Thomas has been extolling the virtues of young Hunter Valley Semillon for years. “People should rediscover the beauty of Hunter Semillon in its youth,” he told us. “These 2024s have so much brightness and early appeal; they show you don’t have to age Hunter Semillon to enjoy it.” Alongside the 2024 Braemore and Fordwich Semillons, we’re also releasing the 2018 Braemore Cellar Reserve. From a similar warm and dry season, a stylistic comparison can be drawn between the two wines. They’re a fascinating pair–broad-shouldered and powerful, with beautiful freshness, fine detail and striking, ageworthy structure.