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International Fine Wines
International Fine Wines
International Fine Wines
International Fine Wines

Pyramid Valley

One of the New World’s Most Exhilarating Producers of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir

Pyramid Valley founders, Mike and Claudia Weersing, were driven to create one of the New World’s great cool-climate vineyards and it took 15 years and a quixotic global journey that included a lengthy stopover in Burgundy. Mimicking the aspect and soils of this region, the Weersings finally found their special place in the southern hemisphere, within a barren chain of limestone-rich scarps at Waikari in North Canterbury. Inspiring all who came into their orbit, over another 15 years Mike and Claudia emerged as New Zealands pioneers of both biodynamic practices and high-density viticulture. Their minute scale and exceptional dedication to their soils and vines led to some incredible wines being produced.

In 2017, Mike and Claudia were moved to make the tough decision to put their magnum opus on the market. Steve Smith MW (previously of Craggy Range) was one of the many affected by what he describes as one of the most compelling and unique vineyards he has ever visited—he and his partner Brian Sheth acquired the estate in late 2017. Pyramid Valley had no shortage of suitors, and that Mike and Claudia chose to accept Smith’s offer speaks volumes. Smith’s blueprint from the outset has been to honour the Weersing’s vision and to build on the authenticity and integrity of the vineyard’s origins.

Building on the vision and authenticity of founders Mike and Claudia Weersing, the new owners look like a dead cert to cement this exceptional estate’s reputation as one of the New World’s most exciting producers of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir

Smith brought in Huw Kinch from Martinborough’s Escarpment as Estate Manager and Winemaker. Kinch was already a huge fan, believing that Pyramid Valley’s Chardonnays were among the most profound examples he had tasted. Nick Paulin then joined from Central Otago, where he had been introduced to biodynamic viticulture under Blair Walter at Felton Road (before stints at Peregrine and Lowburn Ferry).

Since joining the team in the winter of 2018, Kinch (who lives on-site with his family) has spent much of his energy expanding the original blocks, which now extend to 6.8 hectares (still not a lot of vines). Following Mike Weersing’s original vineyard map—which he never got to complete—the new plantings are all on Pyramid Valley’s mid-slope. To add clonal complexity, the new Chardonnay cuttings have included some clone 845 (in addition to the existing Mendoza and 95). The vines are spaced at a slightly lower density of 8,000 vines per hectare to allow more cover cropping and increased soil biodiversity. Kinch is particularly excited about expanding the existing, tiny 0.4-hectare Lion’s Tooth Block.

Pyramid Valley now releases three collections annually. The emblematic, 100% estate Botanical Collection will be released on allocation. For more general release is their Pastures Collection, which sees Pyramid Valley working with a roster of exceptional growers in North Canterbury, Central Otago and Marlborough. This collection is the Pyramid Valley’s negociant arm—a vital part of this project, with the aim to create a set of wines that share the same sense of somewhereness as the wines from the home vineyard. Finally, the Colours Collection comprises the Sauvignon+, Orange and Rosé.

The Range

Pyramid Valley Earth Smoke Pinot Noir 2023
$196.00
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Pyramid Valley Earth Smoke Pinot Noir 2023

Biodynamic. Like the Chardonnay vineyards, Pyramid Valley’s Waikari Pinot Noir sites were planted in 2000 at 11,111 vines per hectare on slopes with clay/limestone soils. Earth Smoke is an expansive slope that faces east and is situated southwest of Lion’s Tooth and north of its sibling Pinot Noir site, Angel Flower. The soils are richer than Angel Flower, described by Steve Smith as “strong and beautifully structured”—there’s a high proportion of clay (30%) over the limestone bedrock. The name comes from the nickname given to fumitory, a plant from the poppy family that thrives in this 0.85-hectare plot. Although both wines share DNA, the later-picked Earth Smoke is typically the more structured and darker of the two, with more fruit weight and savoury undertones to go with its tender, fine tannins.The combination of sunlight, high UV, moderate temperatures and decent humidity is nirvana for temperate plants. Pyramid’s vines respond by harnessing all this energy to ripen grapes that are full of the delicate aromas, beautiful flavours and refined phenolics that are the benchmark for fine, cool-climate Pinot Noir. The 2023 Earth Smoke is resplendent with this energy and the unique stamp of its part of the Waikari vineyard. Made from paltry yields of 11 hl/ha, Huw Kinch has crafted wine that screams of place, composed and pure, with elegant texture and expansive presence—just superb.

“The 2023 Pinot Noir Earth Smoke is tender and transparent, mellow and mouth-filling. Restrained in expression within the context of the New World, it is a little reductive, herbal (with the agave-like flavor of good tequila) and fruity with strawberry and red cherry flavors. The palate is mouthwateringly fresh, with chalky tannins leaving a fine powdery veil. This is pure, satisfying and the essence of its terroir. It does feel rather fragile, and as such, my drinking window is currently set for the next ten years.”
95 points, Rebecca Gibb MW, Vinous
“In other circumstances this wine would command every inch on this page to sing its praises. It’s among the best pinots I’ve tasted all year. A harvest diminished by frost has delivered great complexity, if not quantity. Sour cherries, wild berries and dried porcini, tightening through a fine, granular finish dusted with exotic spice.”
97 points, Nick Ryan, The Australian Weekend Magazine
Pyramid Valley Earth Smoke Pinot Noir 2023
$196.00
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Pyramid Valley Snake's Tongue Pinot Noir 2023
$196.00
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Pyramid Valley Snake's Tongue Pinot Noir 2023

This is the third release of Pyramid Valley’s Snake’s Tongue Pinot Noir from the Estate’s impressive Mānatu vineyard, located in the Lowburn sub-region of Central Otago. Planted in the mid-2000s by Jean and Roger Gibson, the former Lowburn Ferry property sits on a gentle, north-facing slope in the foothills of the Pisa Ranges. A key trait of the site is its soils: loess over deep silts that have developed pedogenic lime deposits. With high pH and suitability for growing world-class Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, these soils proved the main drawcard for winemaker Huw Kinch, viticulturist Nick Paulin and owner Steve Smith, MW. The 10.2-hectare property is home to a patchwork of Pinot Noir clones—Abel, 667, 777, 114, 115, 943, 828, 115 and clone 5—playing into Kinch’s preference for clonal mix in the vineyard and the winery. The Snake’s Tongue block is a 1.9-hectare plot in the southeast corner of the vineyard, with this release drawn from a 0.7-hectare parcel of Abel clone planted in 2007. (The remaining 1.2 hectares comprises new high-density vines—clones 828, 943 and 115—planted in 2018 and 2019.)In contrast to the Pinot fruit from the cooler Waikari property (Earth Smoke and Angel Flower), Mānatu’s Pinot Noir sees more sunshine and gives a wine of immediate pleasure. Focussed on textured and juicy five spice, spiced plums and cherries, it has a core of power and intensity not found in the more delicate and restrained northern fruit. Kinch uses whole bunches (25%) and a measure of new oak in the Mānatu wines (30%) to harness this inherent power; techniques he tells us would overpower the Waikari wines. It is yet another example of his thoughtful, site-based approach. A wine so delicious it may well be laced with dopamine. 

“The 2023 Pinot Noir Snake's Tongue is a remarkably fragrant wine, with a strong floral burst giving way to raspberries, blackberries, red cherries and mint. You could spend a long time just sniffing it. This is supple and sensitively made, generous but not weighty, with fine, succulent tannins and gently refreshing acidity on the calming finish. Though young, the 2023's gentle structure makes it enjoyable from the off and for a decade beyond.”
92 points, Rebecca Gibb MW, Vinous
Pyramid Valley Snake's Tongue Pinot Noir 2023
$196.00
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Pyramid Valley Angel Flower Pinot Noir 2023
$196.00
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Pyramid Valley Angel Flower Pinot Noir 2023

Biodynamic. Angel Flower is the prettiest of many synonyms for yarrow, a grassland and pasture plant with delicate, fennel-like leaves and a brilliant mass of white flowers. Yarrow is the basis of the biodynamic preparation 502 and is strongly associated with mobilising natural sulphur and potassium in the soil. Planted in 2000 at 11,111 vines per hectare, the 0.7-hectare Angel Flower plot is the cooler, more exposed Pinot block on the Pyramid Valley property. It’s a stunning, steeply sloped, north-facing block located at the southern tip of the Estate. The soils are shallow and coarse with less clay (15%) than Earth Smoke, which Huw Kinch says enhances the wine’s aromatic profile. By comparison, you can expect similar weight and shape to Earth Smoke, with heightened floral aromatics and a silky slip through the palate. The winemaking mirrors Earth Smoke, so the difference comes purely from site and soil. It leaps out the glass with scents of peonies, dried herbs and summer berries underscored by a flinty, underbrush savouriness. It is like drinking satin, with flavours of berry compote and fresh sour cherries floating over the palate, seamless structure and a mineral, iodine-spiked finish. It’s a dazzlingly good Pinot and sheer class. 

“The 2023 Pinot Noir Angel Flower is dense yet elegant, with the natural tension of its site restraining its fullness to maintain focus and poise. The 2023 offers an understated nose, concentrated flavors of red cherry and rhubarb and resonant woody herbs on the long, sinewy finish. Light, chalky tannins and fresh acidity meet to provide texture and pull in this soulful New Zealand Pinot.”
94 points, Rebecca Gibb MW, Vinous
Pyramid Valley Angel Flower Pinot Noir 2023
$196.00
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Pyramid Valley North Canterbury Orange 2023
$58.00
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Pyramid Valley North Canterbury Orange 2023

It tastes like Huw Kinch is on a personal mission to make the best dammed orange wine in the southern hemisphere. And he’s getting there! This year’s blend comprises 62% Pinot Gris, 23% Sauvignon Blanc, 14% Pinot Noir (vinified as a white) and the merest seasoning of Gewürztraminer, Muscat and Viognier. The wine brings together four vineyards that are sustainably farmed, free of artificial chemicals or fertilisers: the Course-Choi Vineyard (previously Porters) on Mackenzies Road; the Good Family Vineyard and Fraher Vineyard on Omihi Clay soils in North Canterbury; and Pinot Noir from Pyramid Valley’s Lowburn vineyard in Central Otago. The fruit is primarily vinified as bunches for 12 to 24 days in open-top fermenters with a small amount of ‘Blanc de Noir’ pressings added during fermentation. The wines age in concrete and old barrels for six months without sulphur. “We want to make an Orange that’s balanced between the tannins and fruit weight,” Kinch explains. “So finer, lighter tannins, something that matches our cooler climate.” Max Allen commented on this wine’s premier release: “Oh, if only all orange wines were as downright delicious and as beautiful as this.” It has only kicked on since then. So moreish and tangy with a juicy palate and dry, powdery close licked by Campari-like bitters. Tangerine dream!

“I love the tangerines, cloves, nutmeg, flint, rose petals and smoke. Medium-bodied with lovely density and hints of fine tannins. This is a sophisticated and polished orange wine.”
93 points, James Suckling, jamessuckling.com
“Phwoar! ... this looks and smells wicked. Hazy orange in the glass with aromas of cold peach tea, watered down apricot nectar, pressed wildflowers, souk-like spices, Campari and soda, crushed herbs, amaro, crushed rock and dried tangerine rind. Dry and stony with a swoop of texture, leaving a pithy feel on the tongue and a savoury and endlessly complex exit with plenty of minerally energy.”
93 points, Dave Brookes, Halliday Wine Companion
Pyramid Valley North Canterbury Orange 2023
$58.00
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Pyramid Valley North Canterbury Rosé 2022
$58.00
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Pyramid Valley North Canterbury Rosé 2022

100% Pinot Noir from the Waipara Springs vineyard in Waipara, North Canterbury, which is sustainably farmed with no artificial chemicals or fertilisers. Old-vine 10/5 Clone Pinot Noir was planted in the early 1990s, and the site is managed by Pyramid Valley. The fruit was picked on 11th April. The grapes were pressed as whole bunches before fermenting with indigenous yeasts in a combination of concrete tulips and old puncheons. The wine aged on its ferment lees without sulphur for six months before blending in November. The notes below do not oversell this outstanding wine—we haven’t tasted a more exciting rosé from New Zealand. Structured and vinous it may be, yet it is also seriously addictive. 

“The 2022 Rosé North Canterbury is produced from old vine 10/5 Pinot Noir clones planted in the late 1980s/early 1990s. Dry farmed, managed organically, whole-bunch pressed and fermented in concrete and old puncheons before spending six months on lees, the resulting wine is dry, full and savory. Unlike most rosés, it doesn’t focus on fruit but texture. It is complex and concentrated, firm and serious.”
95 points, Rebecca Gibb MW, Vinous
“Pale, pretty rosé with delicate cherry/berry, raspberry and wildflower flavours. Dry and delicate wine with appealing purity and a crisp, lingering finish. Serious, sophisticated rosé.”
94 points, Bob Campbell, The Real Review
“Good colour, orange-y, ruddy hue, though flavours are lighter than expected if not suggestively tinged with blood orange tang over red cherry and pomegranate juice. The perfume is attractive, more cherry, some flinty mineral notes, a touch of dried herbs. It has a nice, sinewy chew to it all, fine tannins finish the wine, a little juiciness mid palate for some added bandwidth. Decent drinking, but doesn’t deliver a more complex expression, though that’s sometimes not the point too, of course.”
91 points, Mike Bennie, The Wine Front
“Pinot noir clone 10/5 sourced from the Waipara Springs vineyard, planted in the early '90s and managed by Pyramid Valley. Onion skin and salmon in the glass with aromas of red apple, redcurrant, watermelon and raspberry with hints of red berry danish, crushed stone, pressed flowers, soft spice and crème fraîche. Ditto on the palate with a super sapid, salivating acid line finishing dry, savoury and downright delicious.”
93 points, Dave Brookes, Halliday Wine Companion
Pyramid Valley North Canterbury Rosé 2022
$58.00
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Pyramid Valley Central Otago Manata Pinot Noir 2021
$93.00
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Pyramid Valley Central Otago Manata Pinot Noir 2021

Pyramid Valley opened a new chapter of its story in 2018 when it purchased Jean and Roger Gibson’s highly regarded Lowburn Ferry vineyard in Central Otago’s Lowburn sub-region. Already winning national awards by 2003, the site was planted in 2000 on a gentle, north-facing slope with 30% own-rooted vines and a mix of clones—some of the oldest Pinot vines in Otago. A supplement of higher-density Pinot Noir was planted on a lower terrace in 2018 by Pyramid Valley’s biodynamic specialist, Nick Paulin, who lives on and manages the property. Now renamed Manata, paying homage to a romantic Māori legend of this region, soils are predominantly loess over deep silts that have developed pedogenic lime deposits. 2021 was the final year of organic conversion; as of 2022, the site has been certified organic by BioGro NZ. There are two wines made from this vineyard. The Manata Pinot is a selection of blocks, while a single-parcel Pinot Noir called Snake Tongue now forms part of the Botanical Selection. The grapes were hand-picked and fermented with indigenous yeasts in open-top concrete and oak fermenters, with 15% whole bunches included. The wine aged in French oak barrels (25% new) for 12 months before settling in concrete and wooden cuves on light lees for a further six months. All parties involved are clearly besotted by this “special” vineyard whose wine manifests the dark berry plushness and energy of Central Otago, allied to silky structure and impressive ageing potential.

“Manata is a vineyard in Lowburn, Central Otago which has been cultivated as a market garden for 150 years to produce soils that are high in organic matter. Dense, rich and concentrated pinot noir with cassis, ripe plum, and mocha flavours. Seductive, accessible and tantalisingly complex wine with development potential.”
96 points, Bob Campbell, the Real Review
“Sweet cherry and strawberry with cedar, light tar and stone aromas along with some vanilla bean that follows through to a full body with round and polished tannins and a crunchy finish. A savory tone to the fruit makes this very attractive and enticing. Fine and firm tannined finish.”
94 points, Jamessuckling.com
“The 2021 Manata Pinot Noir is distinctly soft, rolling and round—it sort of flows across the palate in a liquid kind of way (despite the fact that it is, actually, liquid). It's all dark chocolate, cocoa, coffee grounds, black pudding, dark cherry, plum skin and bay leaf. This is a soft, pillowy wine that has magnitude and gravitas through the finish, which is a pleasurable offset. A red apple core at the heart of the wine keeps me coming back for more... a good attribute in a wine. “Those dark characters may be the impact of the last five days of harvest, where we had strong warm northwest winds. It hit 30 degrees occasionally," says Steve Smith, MW. 14.5% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.”
93 points, Erin Larkin, The Wine Advocate
“A wonderfully expressive pinot noir from the Manata vineyard in Lowburn that shows effusive, pure dark plum and cherry fruits with an underlayer of fine spice, vanilla essence, mocha, thyme, wildflowers, dried orange rind and crushed rocks. Very calm and composed on the palate. Fruit-pure and ripe, spice and crushed herbs in layers, tannins powdery fine, bright, lacy acidity and an almost ferrous savouriness to its exit.”
95 points, Dave Brookes, Halliday Wine Companion
Pyramid Valley Central Otago Manata Pinot Noir 2021
$93.00
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AT-A-GLANCE

• Pyramid Valley was established by visionary vignerons Mike and Claudia Weersing in Waikari, Canterbury, on New Zealand’s South Island.

• The estate was taken over in 2017 by Steve Smith MW (co-founder of Craggy Range) and business partner Brian Sheth.

• In 2018, Huw Kinch (ex-Escarpment) joined as Estate Manager and Winemaker, while Nick Paulin (ex-Felton Road) looks after the biodynamic viticulture.

• The team manages 80 hectares of vines in North Canterbury, with a further 10 hectares in Central Otago.

• Production focuses on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, with small runs of Sauvignon Blanc.

• There are three collections of wines: the flagship, single-block Botanicals Collection from the property in Waikari; the Pastures Collection from selected vineyards in Marlborough, Canterbury and Central Otago; and the more approachably priced Colours Collection.

• The Botanical range is sold on allocation.



IN THE PRESS

“You may think you know New Zealand wines but I can assure you that until you have tasted Pyramid Valley, you have no idea. The results speak for themselves: astonishingly good, terroir-expressive wines that will challenge all your preconceptions.” Lisa Perrotti-Brown, The Wine Advocate

Country

New Zealand

Primary Region

Canterbury, Waipara and Otago

People

Winemaker: Huw Kinch

Availability

National

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