The domaine crafts two Barbara wines, both sitting at what we could call ‘the serious end’ of the Barbera spectrum. In a Bibendum setting, this means closer in style to the structured, ageworthy style of Cavallotto, rather than, say, the approachable and seductive character of Sandrone or Massolino. This wine is the more fruit-forward of the two and is drawn from the Majano vineyard in Neive, sitting at 190 metres on sandy clay. The oldest vines here have reached 50 years of age, bringing uncommon depth and vinosity. The wine was matured in stainless steel for 12 months before bottling.

This is superb; bloody and ferrous yet with lovely florals and a pure, dark cherry core. It immediately speaks as to why we love this producer. There’s depth yet great finesse and it’s loaded with character.

Stefanetto comes from mature vines in Busso’s San Stunet vineyard (see notes for the Barbaresco San Stunet below). The higher altitude (380m above sea level), age of vines (25 to 50 years old) and limestone rich soils all contribute to a deeper and more structured Barbera than the Majano. Accordingly, this wine is raised in neutral barrels of various sizes for at least 12 months. It is also released with one extra year of age.

This has more overt flesh, more plummy fruit, wilder notes and powdery tannins. In short, it’s a dark and layered Barbera of enormous character and length.

On the western hills above Neive, Albesani is one of the shining stars of Barbaresco. In his Barbaresco MGA, Masnaghetti writes that here, “…the combination of soil, stature and exposure creates one of the greatest vineyards of the Langhe”. The vines were planted between 30 and 70 years ago at 260 metres above sea level on soils of limestone, clay and marl with an ideal southwest exposure. This was naturally fermented in tank, then aged in 25-hectolitre cask for 26 months.

Again, this is old-school classic in terms of its fruit profile and structure. It’s medium- to full-bodied, with sweet fruit suggesting fresh plum with hints of leather, honey and iodine complexity, clove and nutmeg spice and a cool freshness. It’s intense yet elegant, with flesh and complexity. Lovely stuff. 

On the western hills above Neive, Albesani is one of the shining stars of Barbaresco. In his Barbaresco MGA, Masnaghetti writes that here, “…the combination of soil, stature and exposure creates one of the greatest vineyards of the Langhe”. The vines were planted between 30 and 70 years ago at 260 metres above sea level on soils of limestone, clay and marl with an ideal southwest exposure. This was naturally fermented in tank, then aged in 25-hectolitre cask for 26 months.

Again, this is old-school classic in terms of its fruit profile and structure. It’s medium- to full-bodied, with sweet fruit suggesting fresh plum with hints of leather, honey and iodine complexity, clove and nutmeg spice and a cool freshness. It’s intense yet elegant, with flesh and complexity. Lovely stuff.

San Stunet is the only Busso vineyard not in Neive, and instead is in the village of Trieso. Busso farms 1.5 hectares of vines, which sit at 400 metres in altitude on a steep gradient (16%). San Stunet soils are mostly yellow marl with a lot of limestone. The Busso vines lie on the southeast face of the ridge which delivers the deepest and most articulate Nebbiolo of this cru. The site is late ripening, usually picked 10 days after the estate’s other vineyards.

The winemaking is identical to the Albesani Vigna Borgese above, but this has both more flesh and is punchier, suggesting both more tannins and acidity. Decant it and serve it in a Burgundy glass and you’ll be rewarded with a wonderful Nebbiolo loaded with character (dark cherry, honey, leather), depth and structure. It would ideally get 10 to 15 years bottle age, but if not, then lots of air.

San Stunet is the only Busso vineyard not in Neive, and instead is in the village of Trieso. Busso farms 1.5 hectares of vines, which sit at 400 metres in altitude on a steep gradient (16%). San Stunet soils are mostly yellow marl with a lot of limestone. The Busso vines lie on the southeast face of the ridge which delivers the deepest and most articulate Nebbiolo of this cru. The site is late ripening, usually picked 10 days after the estate’s other vineyards.

The winemaking is identical to the Albesani Vigna Borgese above, but this has both more flesh and is punchier, suggesting both more tannins and acidity. Decant it and serve it in a Burgundy glass and you’ll be rewarded with a wonderful Nebbiolo loaded with character (dark cherry, honey, leather), depth and structure. It would ideally get 10 to 15 years bottle age, but if not, then lots of air.

Purchased in 1999, the domaine farms 1.3 hectares of what is possibly the best-known MGA of Neive (made famous by Bruno Giacosa). Sitting at 240 metres altitude on a low and twisting ridge opposite the Albesani Cru, Busso’s vines are south-west exposed and face the river. It’s a windy microclimate despite not being particularly high. The soil here is the limestone-rich Sant’Agata marl with sandy and calcareous layers. In 2015 Piero began to separate his oldest vines here (planted in the 1950s), for a separate old vine bottling (see below). The vines for this wine were planted between 25 and 50 years ago. Aging is the same as for the other crus (two years in Slavonian oak casks), but the wine is kept an extra year in bottle before release.

This is clearly the most hedonistic Barbaresco in the line-up, with waves of plush fruit and very fine tannins. It offers, deep, plummy characters and all kinds of spice (cinnamon, cardamom, star anise, etc.) and a lingering, sappy close. An excellent 2018.

Purchased in 1999, the domaine farms 1.3 hectares of what is possibly the best-known MGA of Neive (made famous by Bruno Giacosa). Sitting at 240 metres altitude on a low and twisting ridge opposite the Albesani Cru, Busso’s vines are south-west exposed and face the river. It’s a windy microclimate despite not being particularly high. The soil here is the limestone-rich Sant’Agata marl with sandy and calcareous layers. In 2015 Piero began to separate his oldest vines here (planted in the 1950s), for a separate old vine bottling (see below). The vines for this wine were planted between 25 and 50 years ago. Aging is the same as for the other crus (two years in Slavonian oak casks), but the wine is kept an extra year in bottle before release.

This is clearly the most hedonistic Barbaresco in the line-up, with waves of plush fruit and very fine tannins. It offers, deep, plummy characters and all kinds of spice (cinnamon, cardamom, star anise, etc.) and a lingering, sappy close. An excellent 2018.

Introduced in 2015, Busso’s Gallina Viti Vecchie is drawn from a small parcel of 1953 vines planted in the heart of the Gallina cru. The soil in this part of the vineyard is rich in calcareous clay (bluish-grey marl), but there is also some sand. Piero Busso describes this wine has having more depth, structure and enveloping fruit than the younger-vine cuvée. Consequently, the grapes are macerated for up to 60 days with a submerged cap and the aging is in large Slavonian oak casks for 36 months, prior to another 36 months in bottle.

The result is an exceptional, old-school Barbaresco that gets better and better with air. It’s dark, brooding and tightly wound now, yet with air there are more and more florals and pretty red and dark fruits. The finish is long and savoury with a deep structure that say’s “stick me in the cellar!”