Larmandier-Bernier

Vertus Signalling: Some of the Most Exciting Wines in all Champagne
Larmandier-Bernier

“We’re in a new period for Champagne,” Vouette et Sourbée’s Bertrand Gautherot said several years ago. “Before, it was all about image; now, it is all about wine.” Gautherot’s statement—pointing out how much progress has been made in Champagne—is well illustrated by a humorous anecdote Rob shared with us this week. When Pierre Larmandier took over the vines from his mother and decided to abandon herbicides, he bought a plough from Burgundy and took it to a local mechanic to assemble. The mechanic proceeded to put the tines, or prongs, on upside down—he had never seen a plough before! That was in the late 1980s when viticulture in Champagne couldn’t hold a torch to regions like Burgundy or Bordeaux. That the region today produces wines fit to stand alongside the greatest of the world owes much to the Pierre Larmandiers of this world. 

 

You would have heard us talk about how the wines of this foundational grower continue to evolve and improve. They still have the energy and intense minerality they have always offered, and now there is even more intensity and layered complexity. Part of this evolution can be explained by what William Kelley terms “the aggregation of marginal gains”. From little things, big things grow. This might include higher trellising, the longer lees aging cycle, or that today, half of Larmandier’s production is made in large foudre, and it now uses 5000-litre Stockinger casks to store the reserve wines (see Key Points at the bottom of the offer). 

 

However, if such marginal gains take time to appear in the glass, a more profound evolution will be served by the arrival of Pierre and Sophie’s sons, Arthur and Georges. Arthur returned in 2017, followed by his younger brother Georges in late 2021. We’ve heard Pierre talk about how proud he feels working alongside his sons, and the feeling is mutual. “I have to say thank you to my parents. They have been devoting everything for 30 years and built something special,” says Arthur. “With my brother and I now working full-time, there is more time for us all to pay more attention to detail and focus on bringing more precision to our work.” You can see the benefit of the family’s collaborative approach in the transparency and diamond-cut beauty of the wines—those on the market now and those maturing in Champagne.

 

Peter Liem’s précis of the family style is as solid as the day it was written: “Larmandier-Bernier is one of the finest estates in the Côte des Blancs, producing wines of unusual detail and clarity of expression. The style is for Champagnes that are dry, minerally and terroir-driven, emphasising purity and finesse over richness or sheer power.” Another way of thinking might be to imagine a textural and racy white Burgundy with bubbles. The Egly-Ouriet of the Côte des Blancs, even. Just as in Burgundy, fastidious farming and harvesting low yields of ripe fruit remain the pillars of the quality and personality this grower achieves regardless of the year. “You just have to ensure the fruit is ripe,” says Arthur, “and the rest will follow.” 

 

I’m sure it is not quite that straightforward, but then Larmandier has a way of making it look serene: almost 30 years after Pierre and Sophie took the reins of a then little-known grower in Vertus, today, Larmandier-Bernier sits at the pinnacle of France’s most famous wine region. These new releases explain just why that is. 

The Wines

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Grand Cru Les Chemins d'Avize 2016 (Disg. Apr 2024)
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Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Grand Cru Les Chemins d'Avize 2016 (Disg. Apr 2024)

Disg. Apr 2024. Les Chemins d’Avize debuted in 2009. For this cuvée, the Larmandier family vinifies fruit from two tiny plots in the heart of Avize (Chemin de Plivot, planted in 1955, and Chemin de Flavigny, planted in 1960). Both are chalky parcels with very little topsoil and lie on the lower slopes of Avize, not far from Agrapart and Selosse’s La Fosse vineyard. “Initially, it was really tough for the vines to grow here, the soil is so hard,” Arthur Larmandier told us. “Now, they make really, really great wines.” 

The winemaking is similar to the other cuvées, save for the use of smaller, neutral barrels due to the smaller quantities of wine produced. The wines age in bottle for a minimum of five years and are then disgorged by hand with only 2 g/L dosage. It’s a stunning, racy example of Avize, a little deeper than Terre de Vertus, though more delicate and less fleshy than this grower’s Vieille Vigne du Levant.

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Grand Cru Les Chemins d'Avize 2016 (Disg. Apr 2024)
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Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Grand Cru Les Chemins d'Avize 2015 (Disg. Sep 2022)
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Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Grand Cru Les Chemins d'Avize 2015 (Disg. Sep 2022)

Disgorged September 2022. The Larmandier family vinifies fruit from two tiny plots in the heart of Avize (Chemin de Plivot planted in 1955, and Chemin de Flavigny planted in 1960) for this cuvée. Both are chalky parcels with very little topsoil, and both lie on the lower slopes of Avize (not far from Agrapart and Selosse’s La Fosse vineyard).

The winemaking is similar to the other cuvées, save for using smaller neutral barrels for the fermentations because of the smaller quantities of wine produced. The wines age in bottle for a minimum of five years and are then disgorged by hand with only 2 g/L dosage. It’s a stunning, racy example of Avize, a little deeper than Terre de Vertus, though more delicate and less fleshy than this grower’s Vieille Vigne du Levant.

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Grand Cru Les Chemins d'Avize 2015 (Disg. Sep 2022)
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Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Terre de Vertus Blanc de Blancs 2017 (Disg. May 23)
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Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Terre de Vertus Blanc de Blancs 2017 (Disg. May 23)

Terre de Vertus is one of three single-terroir Blanc de Blancs produced at this estate and is certainly the most famous. It is from a parcel of vines on the chalky mid-slope of Vertus, traversing the 1er Cru lieux-dits of Les Barillers and Les Faucherets. These sites produce intensely mineral wines that recall the best of Le Mesnil (to the north) in their chalky raciness and drive.

This fermented naturally, with roughly 60% fermented and aged in neutral barrique and the other 40% in large Stockinger casks. Malolactic conversion began spontaneously, and the wines were left on their lees for nearly a year. After the second fermentation, the wine aged in bottle for another six years before being disgorged. There is no dosage in order to respect the purity of the terroir. The result is one of the most distinctive and mineral wines of the entire Champagne region—and one of the benchmark wines of the great grower movement. 

Since the mid-‘90s, this wine has always been non-dosé—long before it was fashionable. The Larmandiers made the decision because this particular terroir (when farmed in their way: old vines, biodynamics, low yields, etc.) works best without any additions. Still very young and brimming with textural richness and energy, the new release shows a little more flex than the previous vintage. Courtesy of an especially low-yielding year high in dry extract, the palate is buoyed with freshness and the chalky finish is incredibly long and scintillating. Try it with oysters, terrine, hard cheeses, roast chicken or grilled white fish. 

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Terre de Vertus Blanc de Blancs 2017 (Disg. May 23)
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Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Longitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 20 Disg. Feb 24)
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Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Longitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 20 Disg. Feb 24)

Like this grower’s Latitude, this is 100% Côte des Blancs Chardonnay (the vineyards are in Cramant, Avize, Oger and Vertus), yet the vineyards have thinner topsoils so the vine roots plunge straight into the chalky bedrock. The name refers to the vertical nature of the geographic locations of the vineyards as well as the style of wine resulting from the chalky soils of these sites. While Larmandier’s Latitude is expansive across the palate, the Longitude is all about minerality, line and raciness. William Kelley has called this wine “one of the finest non-vintage bottlings to be found in Champagne”, and the high ratio of reserve wines should leave you with little doubt as to the quality on offer. This bottling is based on the 2020 vintage, with 40% reserve wine drawn from a ‘perpetual’ reserve started in 2004. 

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Longitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 20 Disg. Feb 24)
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Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Longitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 17 Disg. Sept 2022) (1500ml)
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Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Longitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 17 Disg. Sept 2022) (1500ml)

An extended aging release, disgorged in September 2022. Like this grower’s Latitude, this is 100% Côte des Blancs Chardonnay (the vineyards are in Cramant, Avize, Oger and Vertus), yet the vineyards have thinner topsoils and so the vine roots plunge straight into the chalky bedrock. The name here refers to the vertical nature of the geographic locations of the vineyards as well as the style of wine resulting from the chalky soils of these sites, i.e. a more linear, mineral wine. While Larmandier’s Latitude is expansive across the palate, the Longitude is all about minerality, line and raciness.
William Kelley has called this wine “one of the finest non-vintage bottlings to be found in Champagne”, and the high ratio of reserve wines (40% from their ‘perpetual’ reserve started in 2004) should leave you with little doubt as to the quality on offer. This special aged release is based on the 2017 vintage and has therefore spent considerably more time on lees than the traditional release. 

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Longitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 17 Disg. Sept 2022) (1500ml)
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Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Blanc de Noirs 2015 (Disg. May 2022)
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Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Blanc de Noirs 2015 (Disg. May 2022)

Disgorged May 2022. Larmandier-Bernier tends just 1.2-hectares of old-vine Pinot Noir in Vertus, grown on the southern side of the village where the soil is a little richer, with higher clay content. These vines are best known as the source for the domaine’s pioneering Rosé de Saignée. Over the years Pierre Larmandier has also made a little still wine from these vines—in the past, Vertus Rouge was as famous as the red wines of Bouzy—but, until now, never a Blanc de Noirs.

2015 was a beautiful year for Pinot Noir in Vertus, leading Larmandier to vinify a white Champagne from these grapes alongside the rosé. It’s made in the same way as the domaine’s Terre de Vertus, with the base wine naturally fermented and raised in a mixture of large cask and vat for 11 months on lees and tiraged in July 2016. Following almost six years in bottle, it was disgorged in May 2022 with zero dosage to preserve the natural richness of the Pinot Noir.

The result is wonderfully complex and vinous Blanc de Noirs. A scintillating cocktail of red apple, sour berry compote and rushing minerals introduces a powerfully structured palate balanced by a rigid spine of freshness and tense, holding grip. It’s very Larmandier and very delicious; a Champagne of exceptional detail and vinous depth. A wow wine. Unfortunately, this release is very limited, and the next vintage, from 2019, is a good four years away. Make hay while the sun shines!

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Blanc de Noirs 2015 (Disg. May 2022)
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“Larmandier-Bernier numbers among the Côte de Blanc's—and Champagne's—finest estates. Based in Vertus, the Larmandier family farms organically and harvest late, vinifying the resulting wines in wood. The result is vinous, elegantly muscular Champagnes that are concentrated but precise. In a region that still produces far too many meager, brittle wines, Larmander-Bernier reminds us of the plenitude and texture of which great Champagne is capable.” William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

“Pierre and Sophie Larmandier craft dramatic, vinous wines of real personality and class. Sustainable farming practices, indigenous fermentations and aging in cask are some of the cornerstones of an approach that yields distinctly potent, textured wines full of character.” Antonio Galloni, Vinous

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