Domaine Huet

“Like Clouds of Chenin Floating Over Your Palate.” [Gibb]—Breathtaking Chenin from a Biodynamic Icon...
Domaine Huet
We gate-crashed Domaine Huet on their penultimate day of harvest this year. Timing! Regardless, Benjamin Joliveau was manning the press with a smile on his face when we arrived, and Sarah Hwang, as passionate as ever, took out to take us through the 2022 wines and some notable museum releases.

To cut to the chase, 2022 has delivered a wonderful set of wines at every level and style here. They are incisive, driven, mineral and long, and they are certainly more layered and complex than their 2021 counterparts at the same stage. Deliciously so. Indeed, the only downside for the domaine is that it had to drop a lot of fruit at harvest due to uneven ripening caused by dry weather. So, while volumes were not as initially hoped—especially after losing three-quarters of the crop in 2021—there were plenty of smiles regarding the quality.

Instead of making a long offer even longer, we are omitting our own tasting notes for now. And besides, Rebecca Gibb MW has written some cracking reviews on the wines. Our favourite quote has to be Gibb’s take on the 2022 Clos de Bourg Sec: “If you can't find pleasure in this wine, you're dead.” Boom! Then, on the 2022 Haut Lieu Moelleux: “You'll struggle to find many producers in the world who can achieve this balance.” Kapow! And, of course, the quote used in the title of this offer, which refers to Huet’s wines in general, deserves another mention. Kazam!

This year's museum releases come from a vintage that Huet’s legendary cellarmaster, Noël Pinguet, always believed had great potential: 2003. Twenty years on, Pinguet had every right to be excited about the future of the vintage (as a 100-point Wine Advocate score for Cuvée Constance illustrates). Not only are the wines grippingly complex, but they are also amazingly youthful and bright.

For more details on Huet’s stellar vineyards and the domaine in general, please visit our website.

The Wines

Domaine Huet Vouvray Pétillant Brut 2019
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Domaine Huet Vouvray Pétillant Brut 2019

Only the best grower Champagnes have the kind of interest, sense of place and attention to detail this sparkling wine offers. Bottled at a low pressure of 2.5/3 atmospheres (most Champagnes are between five and six), this wine has a more delicate fizz than most. The fruit is all estate-grown (certified biodynamic) and comes from the youngest vines in Huet’s Première Côte vineyards. Crafted in a hybrid méthode ancestrale style (only natural sugar in the must was used for the second fermentation), it’s made in years that favour dry wine production.

Disgorged in October 2023 following 36 months on lees in the Huet cellars, the 2019 release has just over 1 g/L residual sugar and was dosed with the 2018 Le Haut Lieu Moelleux. To quote sparkling wine authority Peter Liem on the style: “It’s a magical, intensely expressive wine, and ridiculously inexpensive for the quality”. Let’s hear that again: ridiculously inexpensive for the quality. 2019 is a magical, fleshy mineral release for this benchmark Loire sparkling.

Domaine Huet Vouvray Pétillant Brut 2019
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Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu Sec 2022
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Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu Sec 2022

Le Haut-Lieu was the estate’s first vineyard, purchased in 1928. Situated on the Première Côte, it’s a 9-hectare plot on deep brown chalky clay (known as aubuis). Here the yellow limestone (tuffeau) bedrock lies up to four metres down, making for a richer soil that produces round, supple wines that can drink very well young. It generally produces the earliest maturing of the three cuvées and is usually ready to drink first, but, like Clos du Bourg and Le Mont, the wines can be extremely long-lived. We have enjoyed bottles from the ’40s that are still drinking very well!

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu Sec 2022
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Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu Sec 2022 (375ml)
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Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu Sec 2022 (375ml)

Le Haut Lieu was the estate’s first vineyard, purchased in 1928, and is situated on the Première Côte. As the name suggests, the house and the vineyards are located on a plateau with a slight south-facing gradient at one of the highest points of the appellation. It’s a nine-hectare plot on deep, brown, chalky clay (known as aubuis). Here, the yellow limestone (tuffeau) bedrock lies up to four metres down, making for a richer soil that produces round, supple wines that tend to drink well young. It generally produces the earliest maturing of the three cuvées and the first ready for drinking, but, like Clos du Bourg and Le Mont, the wines can be extremely long-lived. We have enjoyed bottles from the ’40s that are still drinking very well!

When young, these dry wines are pent-up, intense, mineral (chalky and/or smoky-fresh) whites that are wonderfully pure and racy. With age, the top examples mature at a snail’s pace to become some of the most intriguing dry whites on the planet. They go from the white flowers, citrus pith and crunchy fruit of youth to something deliciously honeyed, buttery, savoury and autumnal. The younger examples are go-to wines for anything involving seafood or white meat. For the technically minded, Huet’s secs have between 4 and 8 g/L residual sugar depending on the vintage, although the 2022 and 2023 wines dipped closer to the 3 g/L mark.

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu Sec 2022 (375ml)
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Domaine Huet Vouvray Clos du Bourg Sec 2022
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Domaine Huet Vouvray Clos du Bourg Sec 2022

Perched on the Première Côte, just above the town of Vouvray, Clos du Bourg is a monopole and generally regarded as the greatest of the three Huet single vineyards. It has been farmed by the domaine since 1953 and was purchased in 1963. Arguably the region’s greatest vineyard, Clos du Bourg makes some of Europe's most powerful, thrilling and long-lived white wines. With only one metre of topsoil over solid limestone, the vines immediately tap into the mineral resources underfoot. The warmth of the site, combined with the mineral complexion of the soils, results in rich, long-lived wines that seem to effortlessly combine intense, charged minerality with generous texture and concentration.

Domaine Huet Vouvray Clos du Bourg Sec 2022
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Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Sec 2022
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Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Sec 2022

Purchased in 1957, the steep, rocky, eight-hectare vineyard of Le Mont lies on Vouvray’s esteemed Première Côte, part of a bank of limestone-rich hillside vineyards overlooking Tours. This block's argilo-siliceux soils (stony with green mineral clays and flint over limestone) provide the tight structure and pungent minerality that Le Mont is renowned for. With less clay (and a different type of clay) and more stone than Le Haut-Lieu, this site typically produces the nerviest wines of the Huet stable, so mostly dry and off-dry whites are produced from this vineyard.

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Sec 2022
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Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu Demi-Sec 2022
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Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu Demi-Sec 2022

Le Haut-Lieu was the estate’s first vineyard, purchased in 1928. Situated on the Première Côte, it’s a 9-hectare plot on deep brown chalky clay (known as aubuis). Here the yellow limestone (tuffeau) bedrock lies up to four metres down, making for a richer soil that produces round, supple wines that can drink very well young. It generally produces the earliest maturing of the three cuvées and is usually ready to drink first, but, like Clos du Bourg and Le Mont, the wines can be extremely long-lived. We have enjoyed bottles from the ‘40s that are still drinking very well!

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu Demi-Sec 2022
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Domaine Huet Vouvray Clos du Bourg Demi-Sec 2022
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Domaine Huet Vouvray Clos du Bourg Demi-Sec 2022

Perched on the Première Côte just above the town of Vouvray, Clos du Bourg is a monopole and generally regarded as the greatest of the three Huet single vineyards. The domaine has farmed it since 1953 and purchased it in 1963. Clos du Bourg is arguably the greatest vineyard in the region, producing some of the most powerful, thrilling, long-lived white wines in Europe. With only one metre of topsoil over solid limestone, the vines tap almost immediately into the mineral resources underneath. The warmth of the site, combined with the mineral complexion of the soils, results in rich, super long-lived wines that seem to effortlessly combine intense minerality with generous texture and concentration.

Huet’s demi-secs typically fall between 18 and 25 g/L residual sugar (give or take a few grams), but the acidity makes the wines appear only just off-dry. These wines manage finesse and diamond-cut clarity, yet they are somehow open and welcoming at the same time. At the table, these wines pair beautifully with the spices of many Asian cuisines but are also brilliant with French or modern Australian cooking (from seafood through game and white meats to cheese).

Domaine Huet Vouvray Clos du Bourg Demi-Sec 2022
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Domaine Huet Vouvray Clos du Bourg Demi-Sec 2022 (375ml)
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Domaine Huet Vouvray Clos du Bourg Demi-Sec 2022 (375ml)

Perched on the Première Côte just above the town of Vouvray, Clos du Bourg is a monopole and generally regarded as the greatest of the three Huet single vineyards. The domaine has farmed it since 1953 and purchased it in 1963. Clos du Bourg is arguably the greatest vineyard in the region, producing some of the most powerful, thrilling, long-lived white wines in Europe. With only one metre of topsoil over solid limestone, the vines tap almost immediately into the mineral resources underneath. The warmth of the site, combined with the mineral complexion of the soils, results in rich, super long-lived wines that seem to effortlessly combine intense minerality with generous texture and concentration.

Huet’s demi-secs typically fall between 18 and 25 g/L residual sugar (give or take a few grams), but the acidity makes the wines appear only just off-dry. These wines manage finesse and diamond-cut clarity, yet they are somehow open and welcoming at the same time. At the table, these wines pair beautifully with the spices of many Asian cuisines but are also brilliant with French or modern Australian cooking (from seafood through game and white meats to cheese).

Domaine Huet Vouvray Clos du Bourg Demi-Sec 2022 (375ml)
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Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Demi-Sec 2022
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Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Demi-Sec 2022

Recognised since the 15th century as being one of the most distinguished sites in the appellation, Le Mont was also known locally as Perruches, a local name for the greenish-tinged clay soils flecked with perrons, fist-sized pebbles of flint. Purchased in 1957, the steep, rocky, eight-hectare vineyard lies on Vouvray’s esteemed Première Côte, part of a bank of limestone-rich hillside vineyards overlooking Tours. This block's argilo-siliceux soils (stony, with green, mineral clays and flint over limestone) provide the tight structure and pungent minerality Le Mont is renowned for. With less clay (and a different type of clay) and more stone than Le Haut-Lieu, this site typically produces the nerviest wines in the Huet stable, so this vineyard mainly produces dry and off-dry whites.

Huet’s demi-secs typically fall between 18 and 25 g/L residual sugar (give or take a few grams), but the acidity makes the wines appear only just off-dry. These wines manage finesse and diamond-cut clarity, yet they are somehow open and welcoming at the same time. At the table, these wines pair beautifully with the spices of many Asian cuisines but are also brilliant with French or modern Australian cooking (from seafood through game and white meats to cheese).

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Demi-Sec 2022
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Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu Moelleux 2022
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Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu Moelleux 2022

Le Haut-Lieu was the estate’s first vineyard, purchased in 1928. Situated on the Première Côte, it’s a 9-hectare plot on deep brown chalky clay (known as aubuis). Here the yellow limestone (tuffeau) bedrock lies up to four metres down, making for a richer soil that produces round, supple wines that can drink very well young. It generally produces the earliest maturing of the three cuvées and is usually ready to drink first, but, like Clos du Bourg and Le Mont, the wines can be extremely long-lived. We have enjoyed bottles from the ‘40s that are still drinking very well!

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu Moelleux 2022
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Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux 2022
Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux 2022
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Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux 2022

Purchased in 1957, the steep, rocky, eight-hectare vineyard of Le Mont lies on Vouvray’s esteemed Première Côte, part of a bank of limestone-rich hillside vineyards overlooking Tours. This block's argilo-siliceux soils (stony with green mineral clays and flint over limestone) provide the tight structure and pungent minerality that Le Mont is renowned for. With less clay (and a different type of clay) and more stone than Le Haut-Lieu, this site typically produces the nerviest wines of the Huet stable, so mostly dry and off-dry whites are produced from this vineyard.

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux 2022
Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux 2022
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Added
Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux 2022 (375ml)
Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux 2022 (375ml)
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Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux 2022 (375ml)

Recognised since the 15th century as being one of the most distinguished sites in the appellation, Le Mont was also known locally as Perruches, a local name for the greenish-tinged clay soils flecked with perrons, fist-sized pebbles of flint. Purchased in 1957, the steep, rocky, eight-hectare vineyard lies on Vouvray’s esteemed Première Côte, part of a bank of limestone-rich hillside vineyards overlooking Tours. This block's argilo-siliceux soils (stony, with green, mineral clays and flint over limestone) provide the tight structure and pungent minerality Le Mont is renowned for. With less clay (and a different type of clay) and more stone than Le Haut-Lieu, this site typically produces the nerviest wines in the Huet stable, so this vineyard mainly produces dry and off-dry whites.

Huet’s succulent moelleux wines (moelleux translates to ‘marrow-like’ and is pronounced ‘mweh-luh’) typically have between 40 and 60 g/L residual sugar. They are made mainly from grapes that have dried on the vine (passerillage) rather than those affected by botrytis. Huet’s moelleux wines can be remarkably fine and delicate—think of a great Mosel rather than a Sauternes for an idea of weight—and pair brilliantly with cheeses and a range of savoury meat dishes (only wines from the richest years work with fruit-based desserts).

Occasionally, in the top years, the sweeter première trie level is made from a berry-by-berry selection of the very ripest (often botrytis-affected) grapes. The balance is dumbfounding, and these mouthwatering, racy, transparent wines represent some of the greatest whites of France. The première trie wines can also work with desserts—but nothing too sweet (they’re better with cheeses).

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux 2022 (375ml)
Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux 2022 (375ml)
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Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu Moelleux Première Trie 2022
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Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu Moelleux Première Trie 2022

Le Haut Lieu was the estate’s first vineyard, purchased in 1928, and is situated on the Première Côte. As the name suggests, the house and the vineyards are located on a plateau with a slight south-facing gradient at one of the highest points of the appellation. It’s a nine-hectare plot on deep, brown, chalky clay (known as aubuis). Here, the yellow limestone (tuffeau) bedrock lies up to four metres down, making for a richer soil that produces round, supple wines that tend to drink well young. It generally produces the earliest maturing of the three cuvées and the first ready for drinking, but, like Clos du Bourg and Le Mont, the wines can be extremely long-lived. We have enjoyed bottles from the ’40s that are still drinking very well!

Huet’s succulent moelleux wines (moelleux translates to ‘marrow-like’ and is pronounced ‘mweh-luh’) typically have between 40 and 60 g/L residual sugar. They are made mainly from grapes that have dried on the vine (passerillage) rather than those affected by botrytis. Huet’s moelleux wines can be remarkably fine and delicate—think of a great Mosel rather than a Sauternes for an idea of weight—and pair brilliantly with cheeses and a range of savoury meat dishes (only wines from the richest years work with fruit-based desserts).

Occasionally, in the top years, the sweeter première trie level is made from a berry-by-berry selection of the very ripest (often botrytis-affected) grapes. The balance is dumbfounding, and these mouthwatering, racy, transparent wines represent some of the greatest whites of France. The première trie wines can also work with desserts—but nothing too sweet (they’re better with cheeses).

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu Moelleux Première Trie 2022
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Domaine Huet Vouvray Clos du Bourg Moelleux Première Trie 2022
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Domaine Huet Vouvray Clos du Bourg Moelleux Première Trie 2022

Perched on the Première Côte just above the town of Vouvray, Clos du Bourg is a monopole and generally regarded as the greatest of the three Huet single vineyards. The domaine has farmed it since 1953 and purchased it in 1963. Clos du Bourg is arguably the greatest vineyard in the region, producing some of the most powerful, thrilling, long-lived white wines in Europe. With only one metre of topsoil over solid limestone, the vines tap almost immediately into the mineral resources underneath. The warmth of the site, combined with the mineral complexion of the soils, results in rich, super long-lived wines that seem to effortlessly combine intense minerality with generous texture and concentration.

Huet’s succulent moelleux wines (moelleux translates to ‘marrow-like’ and is pronounced ‘mweh-luh’) typically have between 40 and 60 g/L residual sugar. They are made mainly from grapes that have dried on the vine (passerillage) rather than those affected by botrytis. Huet’s moelleux wines can be remarkably fine and delicate—think of a great Mosel rather than a Sauternes for an idea of weight—and pair brilliantly with cheeses and a range of savoury meat dishes (only wines from the richest years work with fruit-based desserts).

Occasionally, in the top years, the sweeter première trie level is made from a berry-by-berry selection of the very ripest (often botrytis-affected) grapes. The balance is dumbfounding, and these mouthwatering, racy, transparent wines represent some of the greatest whites of France. The première trie wines can also work with desserts—but nothing too sweet (they’re better with cheeses).

Domaine Huet Vouvray Clos du Bourg Moelleux Première Trie 2022
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Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux Première Trie 2022
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Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux Première Trie 2022

Recognised since the 15th century as being one of the most distinguished sites in the appellation, Le Mont was also known locally as Perruches, a local name for the greenish-tinged clay soils flecked with perrons, fist-sized pebbles of flint. Purchased in 1957, the steep, rocky, eight-hectare vineyard lies on Vouvray’s esteemed Première Côte, part of a bank of limestone-rich hillside vineyards overlooking Tours. This block's argilo-siliceux soils (stony, with green, mineral clays and flint over limestone) provide the tight structure and pungent minerality Le Mont is renowned for. With less clay (and a different type of clay) and more stone than Le Haut-Lieu, this site typically produces the nerviest wines in the Huet stable, so this vineyard mainly produces dry and off-dry whites.

Huet’s succulent moelleux wines (moelleux translates to ‘marrow-like’ and is pronounced ‘mweh-luh’) typically have between 40 and 60 g/L residual sugar. They are made mainly from grapes that have dried on the vine (passerillage) rather than those affected by botrytis. Huet’s moelleux wines can be remarkably fine and delicate—think of a great Mosel rather than a Sauternes for an idea of weight—and pair brilliantly with cheeses and a range of savoury meat dishes (only wines from the richest years work with fruit-based desserts).

Occasionally, in the top years, the sweeter première trie level is made from a berry-by-berry selection of the very ripest (often botrytis-affected) grapes. The balance is dumbfounding, and these mouthwatering, racy, transparent wines represent some of the greatest whites of France. The première trie wines can also work with desserts—but nothing too sweet (they’re better with cheeses).

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux Première Trie 2022
Added
Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu Moelleux 2003 (Museum Release)
Added

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu Moelleux 2003 (Museum Release)

Le Haut Lieu was the estate’s first vineyard, purchased in 1928, and is situated on the Première Côte. As the name suggests, the house and the vineyards are located on a plateau with a slight south-facing gradient at one of the highest points of the appellation. It’s a nine-hectare plot on deep, brown, chalky clay (known as aubuis). Here, the yellow limestone (tuffeau) bedrock lies up to four metres down, making for a richer soil that produces round, supple wines that tend to drink well young. It generally produces the earliest maturing of the three cuvées and the first ready for drinking, but, like Clos du Bourg and Le Mont, the wines can be extremely long-lived. We have enjoyed bottles from the ’40s that are still drinking very well!

Huet’s succulent moelleux wines (moelleux translates to ‘marrow-like’ and is pronounced ‘mweh-luh’) typically have between 40 and 60 g/L residual sugar. They are made mainly from grapes that have dried on the vine (passerillage) rather than those affected by botrytis. Huet’s moelleux wines can be remarkably fine and delicate—think of a great Mosel rather than a Sauternes for an idea of weight—and pair brilliantly with cheeses and a range of savoury meat dishes (only wines from the richest years work with fruit-based desserts).

Occasionally, in the top years, the sweeter première trie level is made from a berry-by-berry selection of the very ripest (often botrytis-affected) grapes. The balance is dumbfounding, and these mouthwatering, racy, transparent wines represent some of the greatest whites of France. The première trie wines can also work with desserts—but nothing too sweet (they’re better with cheeses).

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu Moelleux 2003 (Museum Release)
Added
Domaine Huet Vouvray Clos du Bourg Moelleux 2003 (Museum Release)
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Added

Domaine Huet Vouvray Clos du Bourg Moelleux 2003 (Museum Release)

Perched on the Première Côte, just above the town of Vouvray, Clos du Bourg is a monopole and generally regarded as the greatest of the three Huet single vineyards. It has been farmed by the domaine since 1953 and was purchased in 1963. Arguably the region’s greatest vineyard, Clos du Bourg makes some of Europe's most powerful, thrilling and long-lived white wines. With only one metre of topsoil over solid limestone, the vines immediately tap into the mineral resources underfoot. The warmth of the site, combined with the mineral complexion of the soils, results in rich, long-lived wines that seem to effortlessly combine intense, charged minerality with generous texture and concentration.
Despite the warm and dry growing season, 2003 was a stellar year for Huet’s sweeter styles, and the Clos du Bourg Moelleux is beautiful today. While we cannot find a review for this label, to give you some idea of the quality on offer from this vintage, The Wine Advocate’s Stephan Reinhardt rated the 2003 Moelleux 1er Trie from the same vineyard 98+ points (while the Cuvée Constance received a perfect 100-point score). Twenty years of age and going strong, the palate is mind-blowing and decadent, with a kaleidoscopic array of honey, brioche, orange zest, and spicy/mineral notes washing across the palate. With such purity, spicy intensity and perfumed length, it is a pure joy to drink and—take it from us—the bottle disappears almost as quickly as it is opened. The balance and complexity here are geared towards simple, delicious desserts—it would be hard to beat a great apple pie or the best cannelés bordelais you can lay your hands on.

Domaine Huet Vouvray Clos du Bourg Moelleux 2003 (Museum Release)
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Added
Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux 2003 (Museum Release)
Added

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux 2003 (Museum Release)

Purchased in 1957, the steep, rocky, eight-hectare vineyard of Le Mont lies on Vouvray’s esteemed Première Côte, part of a bank of limestone-rich hillside vineyards overlooking Tours. This block's argilo-siliceux soils (stony with green mineral clays and flint over limestone) provide the tight structure and pungent minerality that Le Mont is renowned for. With less clay (and a different type of clay) and more stone than Le Haut-Lieu, this site typically produces the nerviest wines of the Huet stable, so mostly dry and off-dry whites are produced from this vineyard.

Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux 2003 (Museum Release)
Added

“No matter what the vintage or the wine style (including sparkling), the quality is always extraordinary and clearly reflects the excellence of their terroirs. The chiseled, contoured mouthfeel and precise minerality are unique in the Loire.” *** 2023 Guide Vert, La Revue du Vin de France (one of only eight domaines with the highest three-star rating).



“‘Domaine Huet’ means ‘I make the best damn Chenin Blanc on the planet’ ...”
Mike Steinberger



“No matter the site or the sweetness level, there is an ethereal and elegant quality to these wines that defies scientific analysis”
Rebecca Gibb MW, Vinous

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