Clos des Goisses

The New Releases from “Arguably the Single Greatest Vineyard Site in Champagne”
Clos des Goisses

“During my recent visit, in the company of Charles and his son François, I witnessed this qualitative evolution firsthand, and I must say that the 2015 Clos des Goisses stands out as one of the most precise and impressive of the “modern era,” while their rosé Champagnes are equally splendid. I strongly urge readers who appreciate saline, gastronomic wines to explore the entire range from this outstanding house.” Yohan Castaing, The Wine Advocate

 

“From a top vintage, Clos des Goisses is one of the most exciting experiences Champagne can offer,” argues Champagne authority Peter Liem. Today, we’re delighted to offer another of those top vintages from the jewel in Philipponnat’s crown. The deep, chiselled 2015 certainly marks a change in tone coming after the cooler 2014 and the long, classic season of 2013. But then, as Charles Philipponnat will tell you, Clos des Goisses should not be your first port of call if you prize elegance above all else. “We don’t necessarily search for elegance in Clos des Goisses,” he says. “We want power and balance; we want something with muscle.”


This striking Champagne delivers power, balance and muscle in spades. What makes this site so special is its capacity to retain freshness even in vintages that are, on average, hotter than ever. The wine has signature freshness and a sustained sense of acidity that comes from the pure chalk rock, even in vintages that might appear analytically low in acidity. A protean vineyard, then. More so, the ripeness is matched with a distinctive mineral character. “It’s the special kind of balance we get from very ripe grapes on very, very calcareous soil,” says Philipponnat. “It’s both fruity and fresh at the same time, and it retains sufficient acidity. Because the terroir gives us that, that’s where we take it.”


The 2015 comprises 78% Pinot Noir and 22% Chardonnay. For the first time, every wine in the blend is fermented in oak, and, as usual, no malolactic fermentation occurred. Unlike many in Champagne who picked most of their fruit in August, Charles deliberately held out for an early September harvest. The reward: a great, complete wine from an inimitable vineyard that Philipponnat has firing on all cylinders.
 

Alongside the 2015, we have been offered a precious few bottles of the Clos des Goisses lieu-dit Les Cintres: a single-plot, old-vine Pinot Noir from what is considered the heart of the vineyard. This wine comes from 2012, a much-lauded year that Charles Philipponnat considers one of the best in a century. The clos is also the source of one of Champagne’s rarest and most unique rosés. From a cool, incisive vintage, the 2014 we offer today is as exciting as we have tasted from this grower. Finally, we offer the latest disgorgement from Philipponnat’s far-sighted cellar-release program. If your budget stretches into prestige territory, these wines are some of the greatest and most unique Champagnes money can buy.

The Wines

Champagne Philipponnat Clos des Goisses 2015 (Disg. Mar 2024)
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Champagne Philipponnat Clos des Goisses 2015 (Disg. Mar 2024)

78% Pinot Noir, 22% Chardonnay. The majestic Clos des Goisses vineyard rises steeply from the edge of the Marne River and is planted to 3.5 hectares of Pinot Noir and two hectares of Chardonnay. This historically revered, south-facing slope was the region’s first to be bottled as a single-vineyard wine. With a focus on precise viticulture, old mass-selection vines, moderate yields and ripe fruit at harvest, the wine has never been better.

The slope on this, the so-called Mont de Mareuil, is relatively steep, at between 30 and 45 degrees. The vineyard's altitude climbs from 85 to 130 metres, facing the midday sun and basking in the reflected glory of the River Marne at its foot. The Clos des Goisses' extremely chalky soils, aspect and atypical warmth—the average growing season temperature here is 1.5°C higher than most of Champagne—result in one of Champagne’s most powerful and intense wines.

Be sure to serve these wines in a proper wine glass, ideally not too cold, and don’t be scared to decant them. In short, treat it like a fine white wine—for that’s what it is! It’s also a serious food wine and can stand up to a wide range of dishes, including roast chicken or pork, game birds, sausages, hard cheeses, pâtés, terrines, etc.

Champagne Philipponnat Clos des Goisses 2015 (Disg. Mar 2024)
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Champagne Philipponnat Clos des Goisses 2015 (Disg. Mar 2024) (1500ml)
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Champagne Philipponnat Clos des Goisses 2015 (Disg. Mar 2024) (1500ml)

78% Pinot Noir, 22% Chardonnay. The majestic Clos des Goisses vineyard rises steeply from the edge of the Marne River and is planted to 3.5 hectares of Pinot Noir and two hectares of Chardonnay. This historically revered, south-facing slope was the region’s first to be bottled as a single-vineyard wine. With a focus on precise viticulture, old mass-selection vines, moderate yields and ripe fruit at harvest, the wine has never been better.

The slope on this, the so-called Mont de Mareuil, is relatively steep, at between 30 and 45 degrees. The vineyard's altitude climbs from 85 to 130 metres, facing the midday sun and basking in the reflected glory of the River Marne at its foot. The Clos des Goisses' extremely chalky soils, aspect and atypical warmth—the average growing season temperature here is 1.5°C higher than most of Champagne—result in one of Champagne’s most powerful and intense wines.

Be sure to serve these wines in a proper wine glass, ideally not too cold, and don’t be scared to decant them. In short, treat it like a fine white wine—for that’s what it is! It’s also a serious food wine and can stand up to a wide range of dishes, including roast chicken or pork, game birds, sausages, hard cheeses, pâtés, terrines, etc.

Champagne Philipponnat Clos des Goisses 2015 (Disg. Mar 2024) (1500ml)
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Champagne Philipponnat Clos des Goisses Les Cintres Extra Brut 2012 (Disg. Jun 2022)
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Champagne Philipponnat Clos des Goisses Les Cintres Extra Brut 2012 (Disg. Jun 2022)

100% Pinot Noir. In exceptional years, this pure Pinot Noir cuvée emerges from the heart of Clos des Goisses, from the adjoining plots of Les Petits Cintres and Les Grands Cintres. According to Charles Philliponnat, these are the oldest and best-exposed plots on the entire hill, home to 70-year-old mass-selection cuttings of unknown origins. Known for yielding exceptionally concentrated fruit, the 2012 was fully barrel fermented and underwent no malolactic fermentation. It was disgorged after 10 years on lees and finished with a 4.5 g/L dosage. This cuvée is deliberately crafted in limited quantities and produced using just a third of the harvest volume to avoid weakening the classic cuvée.

Champagne Philipponnat Clos des Goisses Les Cintres Extra Brut 2012 (Disg. Jun 2022)
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Champagne Philipponnat Clos de Goisses Juste Rosé 2014 (Disg. Mar 2024)
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Champagne Philipponnat Clos de Goisses Juste Rosé 2014 (Disg. Mar 2024)

80% Pinot Noir, 20% Chardonnay. Juste Rosé was added to the portfolio in 1999. Rather than creating a flamboyantly bold wine, as might have been expected from the warm south-facing site, Charles Philipponnat opted for a more refined and pale-coloured wine—‘hardly a rosé’, as its name suggests. The wine is based on a similar blend to the Clos des Goisses Blanc, with an addition of Pinot from several Clos des Goisses lieux-dits, including La Dure, Le Collet, Les 28 Verges, Les Petits Cintres and Les Jolivets Noirs. Only 2,000-3,000 bottles are produced each year, and the wine ages for nine years before release. The rosé is now made with 30% saignée to allow control over the wine’s hue and structure, and the winemaking supports a texture that is at once supple and exceptionally graceful.

Champagne Philipponnat Clos de Goisses Juste Rosé 2014 (Disg. Mar 2024)
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Champagne Philipponnat Clos des Goisses L.V. 1999 (Disg. Mar 2024)
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Champagne Philipponnat Clos des Goisses L.V. 1999 (Disg. Mar 2024)

59% Pinot Noir and 41% Chardonnay. Packaged in a solid oak box. The L.V., or Long Vieillissement, is Philipponnat’s extended-aging project. It is widely accepted that the Clos des Goisses is one of the finest wines in Champagne for aging and needs at least 10 to 15 years to unveil its true majesty. For over two decades, Philipponnat has held back a portion of Clos des Goisses to be released over time. While there have already been some late-disgorged wines released over the years, the L.V. range now formalises a yearly release at the same time as the current vintage. Please note, we are talking about maturation on lees here, with late disgorgement for release. The 1999 L.V. is a blend of 59% Pinot Noir and 41% Chardonnay vinified by Charles Philliponnat himself (in his first year) and aged for a quarter of a century in Philipponnat’s Caveau du Trésor.

Champagne Philipponnat Clos des Goisses L.V. 1999 (Disg. Mar 2024)
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“…this clos is a special site, and the wine from it is truly remarkable.” Jamie Goode

“It is arguably the single greatest vineyard site in Champagne…” Peter Liem

“Clos des Goisses has always been one of the most extraordinary jewels in Champagne’s crown.” Tom Stevenson

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