Cavallotto

Sure-Fire Greatness—The New Barolo Releases
Cavallotto

This brilliant, traditionally-minded grower has carved a striking pair of Riserva wines from 2018, wines that sit effortlessly alongside the more hyped vintages surrounding it. Both are classically powerful releases that do not comfortably fit the stereotype of a lighter Barolo vintage. This will come of no surprise to anyone who knows this producer and its vineyards. Much like Chavignol for Sauvignon Blanc, the Gräfenberg for Riesling, and Burgundy’s Grand Crus, Bricco Boschis is one of Barolo’s more profound terroirs; rarely does the vintage outshine the vineyard.

 

Challenging growing seasons tend to dampen expectations, yet, for Alfio Cavallotto, there is no question that 2018 will be a bridesmaid vintage. He told us that if he were offered more vintages like 2018, he would take them. “It’s a great vintage,” he expressed, safe in the knowledge that his wines—whose grapes were harvested in October—walk the walk. Cavallotto’s glowing assessment of the year only heightened as the wines evolved in both barrel and bottle. Time has been very kind to Barolo’s 2018 vintage. Tasting the wines today makes you appreciate why many of Europe’s top growers seek to release their principal wines with more age.

 

Low yields played a key role, as they often do. The Bricco Boschis yielded just 28 hl/ha, a consequence of this vineyard’s old vines and old clones as well as strict selection. So, where the Riserva Vignolo has a little more perfumed lift and mineral-tinged red fruit in this vintage, the Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe is textbook: full of alluring intensity, spice and carved texture. The young wines remind us of 2012 and 2015 at the same stage, two years now looking exceptional from bottle. Barolo lovers will be very pleased to have both in their cellar!

 

And as we discovered in Castiglione Falletto earlier this year, Cavallotto did it again in 2020. Sandwiched between the two dominant vintages of 2019 and 2021, we would happily bet that Cavallotto’s lucid, red fruited 2020 Bricco Boschis will offer more pleasure than the same wine from either vintage if drunk within five years. The moral? Don’t follow leaders; watch yer parking meters.

The Wines

Cavallotto Barolo Bricco Boschis 2020
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Cavallotto Barolo Bricco Boschis 2020

The Bricco Boschis Cru is a truly profound vineyard: an amphitheatre-shaped site producing this estate’s most emblematic Barolo. This wine comes from vines with an average age of 50 years, primarily situated in two parcels within this vineyard. The first is Punta Marcello, which lies at the top of the slope next to the cantina. This cool terroir is known for its fragrant, pale juice and long, angular tannins. Then, there is the Vigna Colle Sudovest parcel, facing south at a lower elevation. This is the vineyard's warmest microclimate, and the fruit from these vines produces fleshier, more accessible wines with darker, more richly flavoured juice and softer tannins. The renowned Vigna San Giuseppe vines also contribute something to the blend, and together, these three components form a complete picture of the Cru, complementing each other and building aromatic and structural complexity. The 2020 saw between 28 and 30 days on skins, followed by three years in large Slavonian oak casks, ranging in size from 20 to 100 hectolitres. It was bottled unfiltered. 


Cavallotto Barolo Bricco Boschis 2020
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Cavallotto Barolo Bricco Boschis 2020 (1500ml)
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Cavallotto Barolo Bricco Boschis 2020 (1500ml)

The Bricco Boschis Cru is a truly profound vineyard: an amphitheatre-shaped site producing this estate’s most emblematic Barolo. This wine comes from vines with an average age of 50 years, primarily situated in two parcels within this vineyard. The first is Punta Marcello, which lies at the top of the slope next to the cantina. This cool terroir is known for its fragrant, pale juice and long, angular tannins. Then, there is the Vigna Colle Sudovest parcel, facing south at a lower elevation. This is the vineyard's warmest microclimate, and the fruit from these vines produces fleshier, more accessible wines with darker, more richly flavoured juice and softer tannins. The renowned Vigna San Giuseppe vines also contribute something to the blend, and together, these three components form a complete picture of the Cru, complementing each other and building aromatic and structural complexity. The 2020 saw between 28 and 30 days on skins, followed by three years in large Slavonian oak casks, ranging in size from 20 to 100 hectolitres. It was bottled unfiltered.

Cavallotto Barolo Bricco Boschis 2020 (1500ml)
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Cavallotto Barolo Riserva  Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe 2018 (3000ml)
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Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe 2018 (3000ml)

Vigna San Giuseppe is a 3.7-hectare parcel on a steep slope behind the cantina. It has long been considered the sweet spot for this vineyard, consistently delivering one of the region’s greatest Barolos. You get the best of everything: altitude, but not too much; excellent drainage, but enough water retention thanks to the clay, so the vines don’t stress in dry conditions; and a complex mixture of soils. These soils include blue-tinted clays, which bring power, limestone, adding freshness and mineral drive and sand, that delivers the prettiness and perfume. Once you add especially small bunches from the 60-year-old vines, unique clonal material and southwest exposure, the stars align to produce something magnificent.

Clearly one of the wines of the vintage, this 2018 spent 28 days on skins followed by five years in large cask. Where the Riserva Vignolo has a little more vertical lift and minerality in this vintage, the Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe is more about ballast and texture.

Cavallotto Barolo Riserva  Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe 2018 (3000ml)
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Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe 2018
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Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe 2018

Vigna San Giuseppe is a 3.7-hectare parcel on a steep slope behind the cantina. It has long been considered the sweet spot for this vineyard, consistently delivering one of the region’s greatest Barolos. You get the best of everything: altitude, but not too much; excellent drainage, but enough water retention thanks to the clay, so the vines don’t stress in dry conditions; and a complex mixture of soils. These soils include blue-tinted clays, which bring power, limestone, adding freshness and mineral drive and sand, that delivers the prettiness and perfume. Once you add especially small bunches from the 60-year-old vines, unique clonal material and southwest exposure, the stars align to produce something magnificent.

Clearly one of the wines of the vintage, this 2018 spent 28 days on skins followed by five years in large cask. Where the Riserva Vignolo has a little more vertical lift and minerality in this vintage, the Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe is more about ballast and texture.


Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe 2018
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Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe 2018 (1500ml)
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Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe 2018 (1500ml)

Vigna San Giuseppe is a 3.7-hectare parcel on a steep slope behind the cantina. It has long been considered the sweet spot for this vineyard, consistently delivering one of the region’s greatest Barolos. You get the best of everything: altitude, but not too much; excellent drainage, but enough water retention thanks to the clay, so the vines don’t stress in dry conditions; and a complex mixture of soils. These soils include blue-tinted clays, which bring power, limestone, adding freshness and mineral drive and sand, that delivers the prettiness and perfume. Once you add especially small bunches from the 60-year-old vines, unique clonal material and southwest exposure, the stars align to produce something magnificent.

Clearly one of the wines of the vintage, this 2018 spent 28 days on skins followed by five years in large cask. Where the Riserva Vignolo has a little more vertical lift and minerality in this vintage, the Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe is more about ballast and texture. 

 


Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe 2018 (1500ml)
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Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Vignolo 2018
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Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Vignolo 2018

In 1989, the Cavallotto family acquired 60% of the historic Vignolo Cru and was the first to bottle this Cru as a single-vineyard wine. Cavallotto’s Vignolo comes from a 1.9-hectare parcel in the Cru, which forms a ridge of southwest-facing vines, along with Codana and Monprivato, that lie between 60 and 80 metres lower than Bricco Boschis. The estate’s only neighbour here is Paulo Scavino.

Vignolo’s soils have some of the highest limestone content in Castiglione Falletto. Cavallotto’s vines were planted between 1948 and 1966, and vine age combines with the terroir and organic farming to give gentle structure, fruit purity and seductive texture. The 2018 spent 25 days on skins, followed by five years in large, neutral cask. This is in no way a lesser wine than the Vigna San Giuseppe; it is simply a different expression of Castiglione Falletto. Generally speaking, Vignolo is the more approachable and youthfully expressive of Cavallotto’s two Riservas, though its cellaring potential should not be underestimated!

Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Vignolo 2018
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Cavallotto Dolcetto d'Alba Vigna Scot 2022
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Cavallotto Dolcetto d'Alba Vigna Scot 2022

Cavallotto’s single-vineyard Dolcetto Vigna Scot hails from 2.3 hectares of 30-year-old vines within Castiglione Falletto’s legendary Monprivato vineyard. These Dolcetto vines face east, meaning it’s a cooler, later-ripening part of the vineyard. The mature vines, low yields and traditional winemaking on these great soils result in a layered, deep, remarkably serious Dolcetto.

While the vast majority of Langhe Dolcetto is raised in stainless steel, the Cavallotto family prefers to use cement tank and 5,000-litre Slavonian botti. This polishes Dolcetto’s tannins and helps to avoid its tendency for reduction. As always, this is a Nebbiolo drinker’s Dolcetto (if you know what we mean), and one that punches well above its weight. It has a juicy, mouthwatering texture bursting with vibrant cherry and spice and cosseted by palate-friendly, polished tannins. Already open for business, yet so lovely and fresh, it is another sophisticated effort that is as deep and multifaceted an expression of this variety as you are likely to find.

Cavallotto Dolcetto d'Alba Vigna Scot 2022
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Cavallotto Barbera d'Alba Vigna del Cuculo 2021
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Cavallotto Barbera d'Alba Vigna del Cuculo 2021

Cavallotto’s Vigna del Cuculo is a major-league Barbera from a parcel of 50-plus-year-old vines on the western side of Bricco Boschis. This parcel is named after the cuckoo bird (cuculo)—we’re not sure why, and neither is Alfio Cavallotto! This wine's unique power and ridiculous quality can be attributed to the mature vines, low yields and powerful terroir of the Bricco Boschis. The western aspect and the preponderance of limestone temper Barbera’s natural acidity, and Alfio Cavallotto explains that this ‘Barolo’ terroir contributes to an aromatic range in Barbera that is closer to Nebbiolo.

The winemaking is also distinctive, with up to 18 days on skins (a long time for Barbera) and then aging for 20 months in the same mature Slavonian casks as the Nebbiolo wines. 2021 is a wonderfully fleshy and perfumed year for this benchmark wine. It’s got that core of pure, sweet, plummy fruit so particular to this Barbera, here infused with nuances of anise, dried flower and earthy minerals. The tannins are supple and elegant, the acidity ripe yet racy, and the wine finishes with unusual depth, finesse and complexity for the variety. Equally deep, complex and textural—not all Barbera is created equal.

Cavallotto Barbera d'Alba Vigna del Cuculo 2021
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“Cavallotto may very well be the greatest Barolo producer few people have ever heard of, something that continues to mystify me. Truth is, it isn’t just the Barolos here that are impressive, the entry-level wines are every bit as delicious and well-priced.” Antonio Galloni, The Wine Advocate

"Today, Cavallotto’s powerful yet graceful Barolos are no longer castaways afloat in a sea of internationally styled wines: instead, they are amongst the Langhe’s most distinct bottlings and have become a benchmark for impeccable Barolos that demonstrate tipicità, Barolos that respect both Nebbiolo and their terroir" Kerin O’Keefe, The World of Fine Wine

“The 2018 Barolos I tasted for this year's preview left me elated, energised and excited. With the colour of crushed rubies, the wines are extremely elegant, perfumed and charged with super-fine tannins. Their transparency accentuates in a clear-cut way the distinction between crus and villages and makes these wines almost ephemeral – Barolo like you have never seen before.”  Walter Speller, JancisRobinson.com

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