The finest sites of Chassagne’s 1er Cru Morgeot (where 20 separate lieux-dits can be bottled) lie in the upper sector, above the main road, on the poorer, white soils. Les Fairendes is one of these sites. Thierry Pillot once told us his grandfather used to say that Les Fairendes (situated just below Les Caillerets) was the finest terroir within Morgeot (Pillot has no holding here so we can take his word to be impartial). The wine is typically—as you might expect—far from your average Morgeot. The 2020 is both deep and layered, yet vital and citrus fresh. It glides effortlessly across the palate, but the finish is intense and long with a gentle grip. Superb.