Previous tasters will already know that although this wine is actually 100% Chenin Blanc from Vouvray it is not permitted to be labelled as such—simply because it is fermented and aged across the river in Montlouis. It’s therefore labelled as Vin de France, a change in circumstances that has not bothered Chidaine clients one jot.
This magnificent bottling is drawn from a series of clay-rich Vouvray sites (argiles=clay) that surround the Clos Baudoin. These include l’Espagnole, la Chatterie, l’Homme, la Reugnières and le Haut-Lieu (the same site of Huet fame). Set away from the river, these sites are mostly populated with 40-year-old bush vines, which grow on deep, chalky clay over a subsoil of limestone. With this cuvée, the Chidaine family harness the best of both worlds: on the one hand, the density, the fruity and sensual generosity of the clays, on the other, the vertical and spicy energy of the limestone.
The combination of a warm and dry vintage with Chidaine’s precise, old-school winemaking has conveyed a predictably top-flight dry, chalky and savoury Chenin Blanc. Glistening bright gold, it opens with scents of lemon curd, poached apples and quince. Brown spice and mineral notes emerge with air, while the palate is serenely sculpted and filled with citrus fruit and mirabelle plum. The interplay between the sleek texture, energising acidity and long saline finish is pure Chidaine. Time will tell us just how great this Vouvray will be—for now, it’s a deep and compact Chenin bursting with potential. And with a light grip on the finish, it’s made for food.