These are later-picked wines from riper fruit, but with pretty much no botrytis involved, so the style remains pure, fresh and finely drawn. There is a clear step up from Spätlese in depth, flesh and persistence, yet the wines still feel poised and digestible. The 2018 is immediate and seductive: a wine from a warm-vintage generosity, with exotic fruit, floral lift and remarkable texture, yet still carrying the freshness and acidity that are among the signatures of this maker.