Les Fuées is a truly great 4.38-hectare terroir sandwiched between Les Cras to the south and Les Bonnes Mares to the north. The finest examples are wonderfully expressive, textural wines full of wild fruit, floral perfume and, with thyme, forest floor/autumnal notes and exotic spice. Barthod farms a quarter-hectare of 90-year-old vines, well-positioned on the mid-slope where the soil is white marl with fossilised oysters, and the mother rock resembles part of Bonnes Mares. Like all Barthod wines, it can live and live, and typically needs 15 years to hit its drinking window. Like all of Barthod’s 2023’s, this will also be wonderful, hedonistic drinking young (although we can’t guarantee it won’t shut down at some point for a few years).