Dubbed “just impeccable, especially within its peer group” by Galloni, Laherte’s Meunier-led ‘entry-level’ Champagne comes from eight different parcels across the Coteaux Sud d’Épernay and Vallée de la Marne. The blend of 60% Meunier, 30% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir represents the diversity of the Estate’s plantings. Some 40% of the blend these days is drawn from the two preceding vintages.
The juice naturally ferments in a mixture of vessels, including two 50-hectolitre Rousseau tronconique casks, old barrels, foudre and concrete. The wines were always aged on lees and see partial malolactic conversion (around 60-70% on average). It’s taut and juicy, with loads of delicious, racy redcurrant and apple-skin Meunier fruit fused with citrus and a saline tang from the Chardonnay. As fun is it is to drink, it’s a serious and complex wine for the price.