This new wine from Exopto embodies one of the most exciting white wines we have tasted from Spain. Period. It comes from a vineyard of the same name, a tiny plot of 80-year-old Malvasía Riojana rooted in the limestone soils of San Vicente de la Sonsierra (pictured below). To preserve what Tom calls, “the mineral and citric character that this variety can develop in limestone soils of Rioja Alta”, it spent two weeks on skins and fermented with indigenous yeasts in a 950-litre concrete egg, where it also matured for one year before bottling.