Toolangi

The Yarra Valley’s Best Kept Secret?

This long-established, yet relatively undiscovered Dixon’s Creek gem has entered a new and exciting chapter and are well on their way to receiving the accolades and recognition a site and team of this calibre deserve. The fruit and wines from this respected vineyard have always been highly respected and sought after, and in the past, the winemaking was outsourced to a gamut of respected and talented Australian winemakers, including Rick Kinzbrunner of Giaconda.

Back in 2017 Helmut Konecsny, the owner of Rochford Wines, purchased Toolangi Vineyards and immediately started ringing in the changes. Under this new, hands-on ownership and with talented young winemaker Kaspar Hermann at the helm, Toolangi have the wind in their sails. In Hermann, the Toolangi vineyard has found its winemaking Prince Charming. In addition to Mount Mary, where he worked as assistant winemaker for eight years before joining Toolangi. Hermann’s CV includes stints at Seville Estate, Coldstream Hills and Punch. Working alongside Hermann is viticulturist Brian Heslop. A Kiwi by birth, Brian cut his teeth in some of Aotearoa's most venerated and visionary Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vineyards: Pyramid Valley and Bell Hill. He also brings to the table a commitment to sustainability and biodiversity, embracing organic, biodynamic and regenerative practices in the vineyard.

Although Toolangi is a vineyard and label steeped in of history the region, in recent years new ownership and confident viticultural and winemaking changes have breathed new life into this Yarra Valley gem.

Together, the pair’s chief goal is to bring the vineyard back to the heart of the Toolangi story, with the focus on rejuvenating and upgrading the work in the vines. This was, after all, one of only two Yarra producers to engage the services of renowned soil scientist Claude Bourguignon, when Bibendum Wine Co. brought him out to Australia in 2018. Bourguignon’s recommendations have already begun to be implemented, including the transition to under vine cultivation and the reduction of inputs in the vineyard… And the work continues.

Hermann is steering the winemaking towards a less worked style, ensuring further purity, finesse, structure and elegance. It didn’t take this talented craftsman long to develop a distinctive and cohesive identity as compared to those of Toolangi 1.0, which, as mentioned, was the product of a roster of external (if very talented) winemakers. In the vines, Ammerlaan presides over some prime Yarra Valley real estate. First planted in 1995, the Toolangi now boasts 13 hectares under vine. An ideally situated vineyard, located right next to the Toolangi State Forest—its well-drained, gentle slopes and a coveted north-east orientation only begin to tell the story of this appealing, unique and characterful vineyard.

When Helmut Konecsny arrived in 2017, the original plan was to condense the range into just two tiers of wine—the Toolangi and Toolangi Paul’s Lane labels. But the vineyard had other ideas—in searching to revive the unique DNA of this site, the team quickly realised the individual personalities and quality coming from the vineyards’ exiting Block parcels was simply too great to pass up. These ‘Block’ wines are produced from the most privileged, low-yielding parcels of Dixon’s Creek vineyard. In particular, the F-Block Chardonnay is cropped from the vineyard’s highest and coolest area, abutting the Toolangi State Forest. The soils here are relatively shallow and rockier, resulting in low yields of intensely flavoured, bright and finely structured fruit. We’ve tasted many a Puligny of lessor quality. And so it goes with the E Block Pinot Noir sourced from two rows of 18-year-old MV6 vines.

What a difference just a few years can make. Taking nothing away from Toolangi’s fine history, the triple whammy of new ownership, full control of winemaking and the introduction of a talented new winemaker has breathed new life into this already fabulous grower. If you do not know the wines, we strongly suggest you take a look.

The Range

Toolangi F Block Chardonnay 2022
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Toolangi F Block Chardonnay 2022

Toolangi’s F Block is a one-hectare plot perched on the highest, easternmost sector of the 11-hectare Dixon’s Creek vineyard. Nestled in the corner, within touching distance of the Toolangi State Forest to the northeast and in the afternoon shadow of a large hill to the south, it’s a well-sheltered plot. This position helps preserve the high levels of natural acidity critical to maintaining balance from a site famed for powerful flavour. The soils are shallow and rocky, with more white clay than lower down, which Kaspar Hermann credits with the wine’s sculpted, chalky personality. Yields are always low, rarely providing more than seven or eight barrels, and in this poor flowering year, Hermann had enough for just five. The 19-year-old vines are Gingin clone and produce thick-skinned, full-throated fruit with plenty of spicy nuance and phenolic structure. F Block Chardonnay is Hermann’s favourite wine to make; he even prunes the block himself. Pressed as whole bunches to oak (20%) for fermentation with full solids, the wine underwent partial malolactic conversion (60%) and matured for nine months on lees in barrel before bottling. Once again, Hermann has struck an exciting balance between depth, texture and finesse. It’s a wonderfully aromatic Chardonnay, evoking floral-accented stone fruits, wispy reduction and a warming spice mix. The palate is fleshy and powerfully structured with a seam of salty minerals and citrus zest on the long, coiled, chalky finish. This is another formidable release for Kaspar & Co.

“It’s a richer style, with some oatmeal savoury flavours, a viscous and glossy feel, but has bright well-integrated acidity. There’s some cinnamon and pastry dough, nectarine and a little spice, some chalkiness to texture, with a smooth finish of excellent length. It’s a full Chardonnay experience, but also shows such fine balance. I like this a lot.”
95 points, Gary Walsh, The Wine Front
Toolangi F Block Chardonnay 2022
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Toolangi Pauls Lane Chardonnay 2023
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Toolangi Pauls Lane Chardonnay 2023

Established in 1995, Toolangi Vineyard is in the Dixons Creek subregion of the Yarra Valley, adjoining the Toolangi State Forest. This sheltered, low-cropping site is planted to the Gingin, Mendoza and I10V3 Chardonnay clones that sit in fine clay-loam soils. Year after year, this unique vineyard produces wines with a distinctive personality and strong sense of place. Pauls Lane Chardonnay comes from just 20 rows within the D Block on the 11-hectare property. It is all I10V3 planted in 1995 when the vineyard was first established. The fruit was handpicked on 29th March, a full month later than in 2021 (when this wine was last released). The fruit was destemmed and pressed to French oak (20%) for fermentation and nine months’ maturation. Winemaker Kaspar Hermann shies away from malolactic conversion for Pauls Lane, finding natural acid/flavour balance in the I clone without it. The 2023 season produced excellent wines in the Yarra Valley; it’s just a pity yields were so low. Bunches were small and packed with flavour, a trait conveyed clearly in the glass. It’s aromatic, rich and weighty with zesty acid cut and ripe, pure fruit flavours balanced by lovely sweet spice and a delicate saline flick on the finish. Full-throttle Chardonnay.

Toolangi Pauls Lane Chardonnay 2023
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Toolangi Pauls Lane Chardonnay 2021
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Toolangi Pauls Lane Chardonnay 2021

Established in 1995, Toolangi Vineyard is in the Dixons Creek subregion of the Yarra Valley, adjoining the Toolangi State Forest. This low-cropping vineyard is planted to the Gingin, Mendoza and I10V3 clones and sits on fine clay loam. Year after year, it produces wines with a distinctive personality and strong sense of place. The Paul’s Lane Chardonnay is the product of just 20 rows of the original 1995 plantings on the property: I1OV3 and Gingin clones in D block. The fruit was handpicked on 27th February and pressed as whole bunches to barriques and puncheons (20% new) for fermentation. There was no malolactic conversion, and the wine matured without lees for 10 months. 2021 was a long, classic season, allowing for brilliant flavour definition. It’s a fairly dense yet racy Chardonnay with layers of ripe pear, yellow jube and nectarine fruit, nutty complexity and a clean, powdery close.

“From a single block of 26-year-old vines. Whole-bunch pressed to barriques and puncheons (20% new) with no mlf. A bright, deep-ish green gold. Enticing aromas of lightly spiced apples and stone fruits with hints of mint and pink grapefruit. Generous and giving on the front palate, I like how this fine-boned wine finishes taut and long. A stylish wine that should age gracefully.”
95 points, Philip Rich, Halliday Wine Companion 2024
“Well, yes please. Flint, struck match, white peach and nectarine flavours with fennel, green pineapple, cedar and cream characters purring persuasively throughout. It’s complex, ripe, mouthwatering and lengthy. It’s delicious.”
94 points, Campbell Mattinson, The Wine Front
Toolangi Pauls Lane Chardonnay 2021
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Toolangi Pinot Noir 2023
Toolangi Pinot Noir 2023
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Toolangi Pinot Noir 2023

Kaspar Hermann has now been at the Toolangi helm for six years. Under Hermann’s site-first approach—allowing the place and vintage to dictate the result rather than forcing a particular style—the true character and quality of Toolangi’s vineyard are starting to reveal themselves. At Toolangi, 2023 was another in a string of low-yielding vintages. Thankfully, the lack in quantity was more than recouped in quality, and the wines are marked by vibrancy, pure flavours and textural finesse. Drawn from 20+-year-old vines, the estate Pinot Noir was handpicked over two days in the third week of March. The fruit was partially destemmed and fermented as whole berries, with a small portion of whole bunches included (10%). After 14 days, the wine was pressed to oak (10% new) for nine months’ maturation.We don’t need to tell you about Kaspar Hermann’s serious winemaking chops. And we really don’t need to tell you how much bang for your buck you get from this diligently farmed single-vineyard bottling. This release says it all.

“All estate fruit with a small portion of whole bunches (5%) and 10 months in French puncheons and barriques (5% new). A very bright crimson. Leaps out of the glass with its aromas of strawberries, cranberries, blackcurrant pastilles and some spice. Juicy-fruited, quaffable and still attractively priced.”
91 points, Philip Rich, The Wine Companion
“Juicy raspberry and cherry a bit of spice, a little floral too. It’s medium-bodied, bright red fruit flavour, the stony feel of the tannin is maybe unexpected, but altogether pleasing, and while it’s maybe ever so slightly breathy, it does deliver plenty of gently sappy Pinot satisfaction, along with solid length.”
91 points, Gary Walsh, The Wine Front
Toolangi Pinot Noir 2023
Toolangi Pinot Noir 2023
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Toolangi Chardonnay 2022
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Toolangi Chardonnay 2022

Established in 1995, Toolangi Vineyard is in the Dixons Creek subregion of the Yarra Valley, adjoining the Toolangi State Forest. This low-cropping vineyard is planted to the Gingin, Mendoza and I10V3 clones and sits on fine clay loam. Year after year, it produces wines with a distinctive personality and strong sense of place. At Toolangi, 2022 will be remembered for two things: the tiniest yields in a decade (resulting from poor flowering) and outstanding wines. The Chardonnay was picked by hand on 4th March and whole bunch-pressed directly to French oak barriques and puncheons (10% new). The wine rested for 10 months before being bottled. The result is a layered wine of concentration and finesse, punching well above its weight when considering the price. 

Toolangi Chardonnay 2022
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Toolangi Shiraz 2021
Toolangi Shiraz 2021
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Toolangi Shiraz 2021

The Toolangi Vineyard in Dixon's Creek, established in 1995, is one of the Yarra Valley's hidden secrets. The soils are fine clay loam and the low yielding site produces wines with distinct character and a strong sense of place. Fruit for the estate Shiraz is sourced from clone PT23 vines in Blocks D and A. The grapes were hand harvested on the 26th of March and was naturally fermented with 10% whole bunches and 90% whole berries. It was then matured in French oak and spent 10 months on lees. The 2021 vintage was a welcome return to ideal growing conditions in the Yarra Valley. The season was prolonged, with cool nights and warm days providing long and even ripening and excellent definition of flavour. 

“This is often something of a steal and it is again here. Peppery spice notes, sweet-sour red cherry characters, slips of darker berries and smoky oak. It’s a frisky red but it has just enough depth to give it a satisfying feel, and the spice notes have a bit of come-hither about them. Personally I’d buy/drink this in a heartbeat.”
92 points, Campbell Mattinson, The Wine Front
Toolangi Shiraz 2021
Toolangi Shiraz 2021
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“A producer that demonstrates a deep commitment to terroir in producing Australia’s finest and most distinctive wines.” Nick Stock, Good Wine Guide

Halliday Red 5 Star Winery - Outstanding winery regularly producing wines of exemplary quality and typicity.

Country

Australia

Primary Region

Yarra Valley, Victoria

People

Winemaker: Kaspar Hermann

Availability

National

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