Oratoire Saint Martin

Elegance over Power: A New Chapter for one of the Greatest Estates in the Southern Rhône

Oratoire is simply one of the greatest Estates in the Southern Rhône, a pioneer in biodynamics; low sulphur; the retention of old vines; and a producer of stupendous wines of depth, intensity, purity and terroir expression

While this Domaine can trace its winegrowing lineage back to 1692, it was tenth generation Frédéric and François Alary who turned Oratoire Saint-Martin into one of the most exciting estates in the Southern Rhône. A pioneer in biodynamics and low sulphur additions, all the while retaining a stock of old vines, this producer’s wines almost single-handedly elevated Cairanne to Cru status in 2016—putting it on a par with Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas and Crozes-Hermitage. Nearing retirement age and with their children taking other career paths, Frédéric and François Alary began looking for a like-minded buyer in 2019. They found their new keyholder in the Abeille-Fabre family, owners of the impressive Château Mont-Redon in Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

Taking over the reigns, in 2019, Mont-Redon has, according to main man Pierre Fabre, got hold of the “best terroir in Cairanne”.

The vineyards of Oratoire Saint Martin are hand tended and managed organically with biodynamic preparations. The vineyards are regularly ploughed, with some plots done by horse. This is a costly, time-consuming and difficult practice but it is one that offers a range of benefits over the tractor alternative. Very low crops also play their part, with the Oratoire vineyards typically yielding less than 30hl/ha on average.

In the winery, large wooden foudres, as well as two egg-shaped fermenters (one concrete, one in wood) and a gravity-fed cellar, allows the fruit to be handled gently. There are no additions and very little sulphur is used. Of course, what truly makes these wines so good are fantastic vineyard holdings high up on the hill behind Cairanne and the continuous ownership of these sites adds to the quality factor—they have been in the Alary family's hands since the 1600s. Most Southern Rhône wines come from vineyards on the flats whilst Oratoire’s are on the slopes near Rasteau and look out to Gigondas and down at Châteauneuf-du-Pape. They have a soil profile rich in limestone and clay which lends elegance and complexity to these full-bodied, powerful reds.

In Oratoire you get arguably the finest producer in Cairanne. If you accept the often-heard claim that Cairanne is the supreme Village in the Côtes du Rhône (and we do!) then you know we are offering something special. In short, these are delicious and very naturally made wines that offer outstanding value year in, and year out.

The Range

Oratoire St Martin Cairanne Haut Coustias Rouge 2020
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Oratoire St Martin Cairanne Haut Coustias Rouge 2020

Biodynamic. Crafted from 50% Mourvèdre, 35% Grenache and 15% Syrah, the Haut Coustias was always the Alary brothers’ tour de force—the most distinctive wine of the Domaine (even if we often rate Les Douyes just as highly). The wine is made from the fruit of 65-year-old vines planted in the rocky, complex soils (limestone-rich with blue clay, 40% active limestone and some alluvial stones as well) of the estate’s highest plots. Only 8,000 bottles are produced each year.The grapes are sorted three times (in the vineyard, then pre- and post-destemming) and the wine is naturally fermented in concrete before spending 10 months in large, 22-hectolitre wooden foudres. One of the Rhône’s few remaining Mourvèdre-dominant yardsticks, this shows all the animal and dark spice that you expect of a great cuvée.There’s more red than black on the nose, with the fruit offset by chalky, mineral scents. Driven by citrusy drive, the palate fuses red fruit sweetness with black olive and an amaro-like lift, finishing with finely polished tannins and impressive chalky length. Such is the balance and digestibility, it’s already approachable, though will be at its best ten years from now.

There’s more red than black on the nose, with the fruit offset by chalky, mineral scents. Driven by citrussy drive, the palate fuses red fruit sweetness with black olive and an amaro-like lift, finishing with finely polished tannins and impressive chalky length. Such is the balance and digestibility, it’s already approachable, though will be at its best ten years from now.

Oratoire St Martin Cairanne Haut Coustias Rouge 2020
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Oratoire St Martin Cairanne Les Douyes Rouge 2020
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Oratoire St Martin Cairanne Les Douyes Rouge 2020

Biodynamic. Around 60% Grenache and 40% Mourvèdre with just a touch of Counoise. The cuvée Les Douyes is drawn from a single limestone-rich terroir with vines co-planted in 1905. In qualitative terms, this wine stands toe-to-toe with the domaine’s cult rouge bottling Haut Coustias, though this wine spends a shorter time (12 to 15 months) aging in large old foudre.The vines are now well over 100 years old and yield between 18 and 25 hl/ha—one of the reasons this wine offers extraordinary power and value for money. Expect layers of black fruits with drive and clarity, a slick of creamy tannin and a lingering cool, bright tone on the finish. Unlike Haut Coustias, it needs a bit of time to fuse and unfurl. In the meantime, a T-bone steak and a decanter are your friends.  

Expect layers of black fruits with drive and clarity, a slick of creamy tannin and a lingering cool, bright tone on the finish. It needs a little time to fuse and unfurl, but in the meantime, a T-Bone steak and a decanter are your friends.

“A seductive and well-made Cairanne with crunchy berry character. On the nose cherries, forest berries and herbs dominate. The medium-bodied palate reveals a harmonious structure and poised character. Delicious and vivid.”
92 points, James Suckling, jamesuckling.com
Oratoire St Martin Cairanne Les Douyes Rouge 2020
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Oratoire St Martin Côtes du Rhône P'tit Martin Rouge 2022
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Oratoire St Martin Côtes du Rhône P'tit Martin Rouge 2022

Biodynamic. An impressive Côtes-du-Rhône, this is taken from Oratoire’s younger vines, which mainly lie just 300 metres from the commune of Rasteau. The 2020 blend is two-thirds Syrah and one-third Grenache with small amounts of Counoise and Vaccarèse. This packs a serious punch for the money—touchstone Côtes du Rhône here. Despite the younger vine source, the domaine’s signature low levels and nuanced biodynamic farming means this wine consistently over-delivers.  This year’s wine hits the Côtes du Rhône sweet spot—juicy wild blackberry fruitiness, spiciness and supple drinkability—right out of the park. 

Oratoire St Martin Côtes du Rhône P'tit Martin Rouge 2022
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Oratoire St Martin Cairanne Haut Coustias Blanc 2020
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Oratoire St Martin Cairanne Haut Coustias Blanc 2020

Biodynamic. 30% Clairette, 30% Roussanne, 30% Marsanne and 10% Grenache Blanc. This wine achieved cult status in France after Olivier Poussier (Sommelier du Monde 2000 and La Revue du Vin de France’s Rhône specialist) compared its quality to a white Hermitage. Haut Coustias is a selection from the Estate’s oldest, lowest-yielding white vines, which mostly face east in the chalkiest, coolest part of Oratoire’s La Montagne terroirs (the name given to the steepest area of Cairanne). The average age of the vines is 75 years, and these venerable plants produce a tiny 20 hl/ha on average. Each variety was harvested and vinified separately in concrete eggs before blending. This is layered, complex and confidently full-bodied in the best spirit of this benchmark wine. Opening with a hint of reduction, the palate is long and tongue-coating, and embedded with deep citrus, aniseed and sweet herbal flavours (not dissimilar to the scent of the local gorse that frames the vineyards). The finish is powerful and long, underpinned by a nip of food-friendly phenolics. There is so much going on; you want to pour it into a decanter and see it evolve as you contemplate the bottle. We’ve said many a time that we know of very few Rhône whites that can match the depth, complexity and sheer presence on offer here. The price is misleading in the best sense.

This is layered, complex and confidently full-bodied in the best spirit of this benchmark wine. Opening with a hint of reduction, the palate is long and tongue-coating, and embedded with deep citrus, aniseed and sweet herbal flavours (not dissimilar to the scent of the local gorse that frames the vineyards). The finish is powerful and long, underpinned by a nip of food-friendly phenolics. There is so much going on; you want to pour it into a decanter and see it evolve as you contemplate the bottle. We’ve said many a time that we know of very few Rhône whites that can match the depth, complexity and sheer presence on offer here. The price is misleading in the best sense.

Oratoire St Martin Cairanne Haut Coustias Blanc 2020
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Oratoire St Martin Cairanne Haut Coustias Rouge 2021
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Oratoire St Martin Cairanne Haut Coustias Rouge 2021

Biodynamic. Crafted from 45% Mourvèdre, 45% Grenache and 10% Syrah, the Haut Coustias is this vineyards tour de force red—the most distinctive wine of the domaine, even if we often rate Les Douyes just as highly. It is made from 65-year-old vines planted in the rocky, limestone-rich, blue clay soils of the estate’s highest plot. Only 8,000 bottles are produced each year.Befitting the domaine’s flagship red, grapes are sorted three times (in the vineyard, then pre- and post-destemming), and the wine naturally ferments in concrete before spending ten months in large, 22-hectolitre wooden foudres. Hewn from tiny yields of intensely flavoured fruit, the palate is refined, flowing and full-bodied, sculpted into silky shape by great, powdery tannin and lifting acidity, with a lovely note of freshly ground coffee on the long finish. Haut Coustias is the priciest of the l’Oratoire offerings yet offers fiendishly good value. Although the style is more ‘limestone’, tapered and fine, it’s a wine that would happily take on many a Châteauneuf-du-Pape at twice the price. There is no hurry here, but thanks to the balance and lucid freshness of the year, it already shines at the table. 

“The bouquet is reserved, but carries potential, has a brewed tone to its dark fruit, the non-Grenache varieties emphasised, with a dab of blood-mineral within. The palate holds nicely sustained matter, is well centred, elegant, with some inner drive in the tannins. It has enough stuffing to pair well with beef dishes, and lasts with a little iron, droiteur, into the extended close. There’s plenty here to get into.”
John Livingstone-Learmonth, Drink Rhône
Oratoire St Martin Cairanne Haut Coustias Rouge 2021
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Oratoire St Martin Cairanne Haut Coustias Blanc 2021
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Oratoire St Martin Cairanne Haut Coustias Blanc 2021

Biodynamic. 30% Clairette, 30% Roussanne, 30% Marsanne and 10% Grenache Blanc. This wine achieved cult status in France when Olivier Poussier (Sommelier du Monde 2000 and La Revue du Vin de France’s Rhône specialist) compared its quality to a white Hermitage. Haut Coustias is selected from the estate’s oldest, lowest-yielding white vines, which mostly face east in the chalkiest, coolest part of Oratoire’s La Montagne terroirs (the name given to the steepest area of Cairanne). The average age of the vines is 75 years, and these venerable plants produce low yields of 20 hl/ha. Each variety is harvested and vinified separately in concrete egg or old foudre before blending. We’ve often said that we know of very few Rhône whites that can match the depth, complexity and sheer presence on offer here. Seductive and textured, there’s a brew of ripe pear, garrigue and anise on the nose, joined by fleshy peach skin on the palate. The wine’s shapely richness is deftly controlled by deep-rooted energy (no malolactic conversion this year) and mouth-watering phenolics. Despite the wine’s power, its classy subtlety, balance and length of flavour set it apart. If a hot white Burgundy grower made wine this far south, it might look like this... (wax cap and all).

“A fresh and precise white with aromas of white peaches, cooked lemons and fennel. It’s medium body with poise and vitality. Saline and succulent with a flavorful finish.”
92 points, James Suckling, jamessuckling.com
Oratoire St Martin Cairanne Haut Coustias Blanc 2021
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“This is possibly the best domaine in the entire Côtes du Rhône-Villages area.  The wines are full, intense and concentrated, surprisingly sophisticated.  At less than half the price of a top Châteauneuf this domaine offers splendid value for money.” Clive Coates MW

“Domain de l'Oratoire St-Martin is one of the Southern Rhône Valley's most conspicuous overachievers, making wines that are far above their humble appellations. All of their wines go into the bottle with no filtration and only a light fining. This is the type of estate that brings smiles to consumers who happen upon their wines. They are reasonably priced and qualitatively equivalent to wines selling at two or three times the price.” Robert Parker

“Leading name, STGT (soil-to-glass-transfer) leanings, highly skilled commitment to quality in vineyard and cellar, with the ability to adapt to whatever a vintage throws at them.” John Livingstone-Learmonth, drinkrhone.com

“…the wines remain an inspiring picture of balance and harmony amid a region of heat and turmoil.” The Wine Advocate

Country

France

Primary Region

Southern Rhône

People

Winemakers: Pierre Fabre & Geoffrey Guigue

Availability

National

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