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International Fine Wines
International Fine Wines
International Fine Wines
International Fine Wines

Domaine Hubert Lamy

“How does he do it?” Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy

One of Burgundy’s best-kept secrets is barely a secret anymore. Olivier Lamy is making some of the purest and most mineral white Burgundies of the Côte (and some damn handy reds)—and demand now far exceeds supply. For those more interested in what’s in the bottle than what’s on the label (in terms of the commune), the wines of Domaine Hubert Lamy offer some of the most exhilarating white wines in Burgundy. Those who know the wines will already know that Olivier (winemaker here and son of Hubert) is one of the most respected white wine producers across the Côte, producing racy, intensely mineral and floral whites of the highest quality. These are wines that showcase the very best aspects of St Aubin’s rocky, bony, chalky soils. They are “l’eau de Roche” as the French like to say.

A pioneer of high-density planting and Poussard pruning amongst many other things, Lamy’s attention to detail and innovation in the vineyard is now an inspiration to knowledgeable growers across the Côte and even the world.

Olivier took over his family Domaine from his father Hubert in 1995. He immediately stopped supplying négociants and the following year, grubbed up or sold off under-performing vines and vineyard sites, and kept only the best and oldest vineyards for the Hubert Lamy wines. Not many know that Olivier worked with Henri Jayer and Meo Camuzet in the early 90s where he experienced many quality practices that he then brought back to his Domaine. Lamy, therefore, became one of the very first producers to introduce the kind of stringent quality controls in the Côte de Beaune that started off in the Côte de Nuits. For example, this was one of the first Domaine’s of the Côte de Beaune to introduce sorting tables (in the early 90s).

Meanwhile, in the cellar, he continues to refine his work to maximise the ever-increasing quality he is capturing at harvest time. Currently, most of his barrel inventory is 600-litre demi-muids, including some Stockinger. A recent advancement has seen Olivier working with foulage (where grapes are crushed before they are pressed) and longer press cycles, “in order to obtain the right texture” and bring more dry extract and structure to the wines.

And when it comes to mitigating the impact of climate through work in the vineyard, Lamy is far ahead of the curve. In simple terms, the attention to detail and innovation, higher densities that provide greater shading of both soil and fruit and, in general, the slavishly hard work in the vineyard are of course key.

The Range

Domaine Hubert Lamy Santenay 1er Cru Clos des Gravières Rouge 2023
$406.00
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Domaine Hubert Lamy Santenay 1er Cru Clos des Gravières Rouge 2023

Like the white from this unique vineyard, these grapes come from a tiny 0.28-hectare parcel of 50-plus-year-old vines in the clos itself (see the note on the white for more details on this terroir). Like the white, it is a brilliant example of the commune with a finesse and purity (and sheer deliciousness) that is unmatched in our drinking experience. The planting density is now 20,000 vines per hectare. The vines are not trimmed but wrapped down (tressage) and yield tiny berries and bunches. Vinified with 80% whole bunches—bringing oodles of perfume and fine structure—the 2023 is another wonderful example. It’s super classy, with seductive flesh and a racy, vibrant close. It’s a wine that would undoubtedly sell for considerably more if it were located in the Côte de Nuits.

The 2023 Santenay Clos des Gravières Vieilles Vignes comes from vines that undergo tressage and saw 100% whole bunch this year (incidentally, there will be an Haut-Densitée cuvée of this at some point in the future when the younger vines mature). This was my preferred nose amongst the four reds that Olivier Lamy poured: the best delineation and purity, perfumed raspberry and wild strawberry, white flowers and crushed stone. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, cranberry and strawberry to the fore, fine acidity with quite a structured though not grippy finish. I would afford this a couple of years in bottle.
91+ points, Neal Martin, Vinous
"From a site planted in 1999, the 2023 Santenay Clos des Hâtes rises from the glass with aromas of dried plum, orange peel and spice, followed by a medium-bodied, taut palate with a rich core of fruit, underpinned by tangy acidity and framed by powdery tannins, concluding with a slightly stemmy finish."
89 points, Kristaps Karklins, The Wine Advocate
“Some spiciness from the whole bunches. Larger in scale – crushed red fruit, similar energy but more width and intensity – all framed with an extra tannin – grainless though slightly drying. Lovely finishing intensity. Tannin is present in the finish – so keep this 5-8 years, but it will amply reward your patience. What a super wine…”
Bill Nanson, The Burgundy Report
Domaine Hubert Lamy Santenay 1er Cru Clos des Gravières Rouge 2023
$406.00
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Domaine Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière chez Edouard Vieilles Vignes Rouge 2023
$314.00
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Domaine Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière chez Edouard Vieilles Vignes Rouge 2023

This has long been one of Olivier Lamy’s finest reds. It comes from just under a hectare of vines on the lower slope of Derrière chez Edouard, where the soils have more clay and historically been planted to Pinot. In fact, the vines here are over 50 years old, producing small, ripe and intensely flavoured bunches. This wine is simply stunning and a wonderful example of the heights that Lamy reds are now capable of reaching. Incredibly aromatic, it is loaded with red fruits and florals on both the nose and palate, with the same finesse and minerality we find in the whites. Don’t miss this.

"The 2023 Saint-Aubin Derrière Chez Edouard 1er Cru (Rouge), which contains around 80% whole bunch, has an entrancing bouquet with cranberry and raspberry, wilted rose petal and light rosehip scents. The palate is medium-bodied with a sapid opening. Quite an insistent grip, a light underlying pepperiness leads to a harmonious and energetic finish that draws you back for more. This should age well in bottle."
92 points, Neal Martin, Vinous
"From a site planted in 1959, where Lamy practices tressage—with vine shoots woven together at the top of the trellis rather than trimmed—the 2023 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière Chez Edouard Rouge is expanding aromatically with notes of red plum, cherry, spice and woodsmoke. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied, taut and a little austere this year, framed by chalky tannins."
89 points, Kristaps Karklins, The Wine Advocate
“A larger scale to this aroma and of more inviting, cushioned red fruit. Vibrant flavour – there’s a lovely energy here. Faintly cushioned, slightly creamy from the barrel. Slowly holding in the finishing. Delicious wine…”
Bill Nanson, The Burgundy Report
Domaine Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière chez Edouard Vieilles Vignes Rouge 2023
$314.00
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Domaine Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière chez Edouard Cuvée Haute Densité Blanc 2023
$1,640.00
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Domaine Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière chez Edouard Cuvée Haute Densité Blanc 2023

This rare, singular wine comes from 0.7 hectares planted at a density of 30,000 vines per hectare more than 20 years ago. The vines are at the top of the vineyard, where the soil is incredibly rocky and the mesoclimate is at its coolest. They are spaced 30cm apart along the axis of the row, and the row width is one metre. At such a density, Lamy typically gets a maximum of three tiny bunches per vine (sometimes one or two, and sometimes none!). The entire plot only yields enough juice to fill the contents of a barrel or two. This plot produces completely different wines from the rest of the vineyard and it was this (initially experimental) site that subsequently led Lamy to increase his density in most of his other parcels, including Les Tremblots (22,000 vines/ha) and Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet (24,000 vines/ha).How does this differ from the other white cuvée from the same site? More intensity, more salinity, more mineral, rocky concentration. It’s like the vines are sucking even more from their rocky soils, and the result is something totally unique. It’s no exaggeration to call this a wine of immense historical importance. Like a lot of Lamy’s work in the vines (recall that this vigneron brought Poussard pruning back to Burgundy), it has given many growers pause for thought, helping them reflect much more deeply on the ways that their vines are planted and managed.  The 2023 is a heroic release, with the added depth of the year and intense structure and length we expect. If it had Grand Cru on the label you could be sure it would get a score in the high 90s.

"The 2023 Saint-Aubin Derrière Chez Edouard Haut Densité 1er Cru comes from vines planted at 22,000 per hectare that, Lamy explained, need to extract less water—two times less—from the soil in order to ripen the berries. It has an intense sea caves and oyster shell-scented bouquet that blossoms in the glass. The palate is tensile and driven by its mineral core on the entry, with fine weight and depth and a precise nervous finish that gets the saliva flowing. Superb."
94 points, Neal Martin, Vinous
"From the top of the slope, planted at densities of 20,000 and 30,000 vines per hectare in almost equal proportions and aged in 350- and mostly 600-liter demi-muids, Lamy’s 2023 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière Chez Edouard Haute Densité expresses itself from the glass with a bouquet of white flowers, lemon peel, oyster juice, pear, peach and toast mingled with nuances of smoky reduction. On the palate, it is medium- to full-bodied, deep and layered, with a crystalline core of fruit, formidable concentration and tension, ample structuring chalky extract, mouthwatering acidity and a long, saline finish. This is a superb wine that will richly reward patience."
97 points, Kristaps Karklins
“More complexity, extra depth and perfume – not more volume. Incisive and mineral – I’m searching to use that word ‘ultra’ again – but how often can I use it(?) Intense with a shimmering vibration of energy. Wonderful finishing – ultra complex – but, such a baby too. Keep it for 10 years.”
Bill Nanson, The Burgundy Report
Domaine Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière chez Edouard Cuvée Haute Densité Blanc 2023
$1,640.00
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AT-A-GLANCE

• This formidable Burgundy grower is based in Saint-Aubin, a village nestled between Chassagne and Puligny.

• The Lamy family traces its Saint-Aubin roots back centuries, but the domaine was established in 1973.

• Since 1995, it has been run by second-generation Olivier Lamy.

• The estate covers 18.5 hectares of mostly Chardonnay vines (small plantings of Pinot Noir).

• Holdings are predominantly in Saint-Aubin, with modest parcels in Chassagne, Puligny and Santenay, plus a prime slice of Grand Cru Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet.

• Viticulture is organic in practice, soils are limestone-rich, and planting densities are very high–often 14,000 vines/ha and up to 30,000/ha in some plots; yields are consequentially quite low.

• White vinification includes barrels, occasionally Wineglobes and no new oak; reds incorporate 50-100% bunches and, again, no new oak.

• The wines are in high demand and sold on allocation.

• Occasionally, we receive an allocation of large-format bottlings.

IN THE PRESS

“Sometimes I contemplate what I think might be the easiest way to make enemies in Burgundy: A Michelin Guide-style ranking, out of three stars, of the region's best domaines. Olivier Lamy would be one of three white wine producers in the Côte de Beaune to whom I would unquestionably award three stars. Last year, I wrote that I ran the risk of exhausting superlatives if I attempt to articulate just how much I admire these wines, and this year is no different.” William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

“How does he do it?” Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy 

“… one of the best winemakers in the Côte de Beaune.” Neal Martin, The Wine Advocate

Country

France

Primary Region

Côte de Beaune

People

Winemaker: Olivier Lamy

Availability

National

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