Spellbinding Tokaji from a Benchmark Estate
Back in its glory years of the 16th and 17th centuries the vineyards flowing down the Disznókő hill had the kind of reputation afforded to Le Montrachet in more recent times. Since those days, history has not been quite so kind to Tokaj’s great vineyards or its famous (Tokaji) Aszú sweet wines—once famously immortalised by France’s King Louis XV as the “Wine of Kings, King of Wines”. To cut a long story short, phylloxera, followed by the two World Wars, put the brakes on Tokaj’s reputation, before the rise of Communism really stuck the boot in.
In a nutshell, the style of wine that this terroir gifts is one of great aromatic purity, freshness and cloud-like delicacy with racy, citric acidities balancing the wine’s inherent natural sweetness.
It is only in the last twenty years or so—instigated by outside investment—that Tokaj has begun to recapture the quality, if not the former fame, of its once legendary sweet wines. Disznókő—the name of the estate and the vineyard, which lies just south of the wonderfully named town of Mád—has been one of the preeminent growers leading this rebirth. In this case, we have an “AXA-funded resurrection” with the dynamic combination of MD Christian Seeley (who has also overseen the revivals of Château Suduiraut and Quinta do Noval) and an inspirational winemaker in László Mészáros driving the renaissance. We have these men and their excellent team to thank for bringing back this once revered vineyard and its wines from the brink. They have a purpose-built, state-of-the-art cellar to work with, perfectly situated on the edge of the vineyard. And what a glorious vineyard it is. The arc and gradient of this dramatic site give Mészáros & Co. a full range of favourable exposures to allow the necessary ripening and hang time of grapes this far north.
Just as important are their warrens of underground springs that result in levels of humidity that encourage the onset of Botrytis cinerea, the noble rot essential to concentrating the Aszú berries’ juice to astonishing, nectar-like levels. Unusually for the region, all Disznókő’s wines are 100% estate grown and produced. The Aszú wines crafted here are not only prime examples of one of the world’s great sweet wine styles, but they are also some of its most individual and profound examples of the genre. In a nutshell, the style of wine that this terroir gifts is one of great aromatic purity, freshness and cloud-like delicacy with racy, citric acidities balancing the wine’s inherent sweetness. This contrasts strongly with many of the region’s more unctuous, viscous, honeyed styles. If you think purity, clarity, and raciness suggest the kind of wines we typically search for across Europe—you’d be exactly right. It was these very characteristics that drew us to Disznókő in the first place.
The short aging has kept Furmint's pungent and fruity aromas and flavours intact and guarded its energy and freshness. On the palate, there is a fine balance of candied fruit, honeycomb sweetness and acacia. This wine finished with a residual sugar level of around 130 g/L, which is well-balanced by punchy acidity and gentle grip, leaving us with a vibrant and modern expression of Tokaji. The balance and freshness mean that you don't necessarily have to serve this with dessert. In fact in Hungary, this kind of wine is often consumed as an aperitif or with goat’s cheese or pâté on toast.
“Twenty years after its AXA-funded resurrection, one of Tokaji's historic estates is delivering on the promise of its privileged site. The focus may have sharpened and shifted from dry to sweet Aszú wines, but even amongst these, the differences in techniques and vintages are resulting in a range of thrilling variety.” Margaret Rand, The World of Fine Wine, Issue 58.
“Experience is the crucial word. You don't drink truly great Tokaji—you experience it.” Neal Martin, The Wine Advocate
Country
Hungary
Primary Region
Tokaj
People
Winemaker: László Mészáros
Availability
National