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International Fine Wines
International Fine Wines
International Fine Wines
International Fine Wines

Domaine Denis Mortet

Stellar Gevrey-Chambertin from one of the Finest Addresses on the Côte

A man of the vineyards, Arnaud's “knack”, as critic David Schildknecht puts it, is to be driven to produce perfect Pinot fruit from meticulously tended vineyards. He is without question one of the finest growers of the entire Côte (many of his peers acknowledge as much) and as great wines are the products of great fruit, it is no coincidence that he is producing some of the finest wines in Burgundy today. There is no doubt that the wines are more refined than those produced while his father was alive, yet they share the same intensity and potential longevity.

Arnaud is continuing his father’s dream of producing more refined wines: openly getting stylistically closer to the wines of his uncle, Charles Rousseau, without sacrificing depth and intensity, or consistency across the range. Denis Mortet was already “backing off” the extraction in the pursuit of greater elegance but Arnaud is taking this even further, not only via shorter and gentler macerations but also by reducing the percentage of new oak used. At the same time, the vineyard work at chez Mortet is at the very highest level. A horse is now used to plough all 1er Cru and Grand Cru vineyards (to minimise soil compaction) and organic/biodynamic practice is now being trialled in these sites. Machines are no longer used in any of the sites and all the work, including spraying copper/sulphur is done via backpack.

Recent evolution, including the addition of three more Grand Cru plots, has combined with Mortet’s energy and talent to propel this Domaine to its status as one of the very finest producers of Gevrey-Chambertin.

After almost 20 years as a vigneron, Arnaud Mortet is still progressing like a man possessed. There is the same level of viticultural rigour for which he—and his father—have long been famous, but now there is also a new cellar, with large oak and new concrete fermenters. Significant portions of the grapes are hand-destemmed (with scissors, à la Leroy). This incredibly labour-intensive method—which requires the work of four people for one hour to fill a single barrel—involves cutting out the central axis of each bunch (known as the rachis) to ensure the berries are retained intact on their pedicels. The idea is that you get the value of whole-berry fermentation (the prettiness, fine tannins and perfume) but without the stems (which rob acidity and bring coarser tannins).

Despite these changes, which have become more and more evident in recent years, the last time we saw Arnaud Mortet he spoke with passion about how his desire to honour the memory of his father continues to drive him. Today the wines compare very favourably with those of Arnaud’s uncle, Charles Rousseau, even if the style is not the same. Denis Mortet would have been immensely proud of what his son (with the support of his mother Laurence and younger sister Clemence) has now achieved.

The Range

Arnaud Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin Ma Cuvée 2023 (1500ml)
$768.00
Added

Arnaud Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin Ma Cuvée 2023 (1500ml)

Where Domaine Denis Mortet’s Les Cinq Terroirs comes from the Brochon side of the village, the parcels for Ma Cuvée lie south of Gevrey near several Premier and Grand Crus. Most lie just east of the Combe de Lavaux. Covering just over two hectares, the vineyards are Les Epointures, La Justice, Champs-Chenys, Les Champerriers, En Jouise, Clos de l’Arche and Les Platières. The latter vineyard features 70-year-old vines on gravel and limestone. This wine is mostly destemmed using the new state-of-the-art SOCMA Cube destemmer that leaves the berries whole without the pedicel. There were, however, 40% whole bunches used and just under a quarter new oak.

“The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Ma Cuvée comes from purchased fruit, although Mortet stresses that he works the vineyard. The 2023 used one-third whole bunch and presents a lovely bouquet with a mixture of red and black fruit and hints of wilted rose petal. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, showing a little dark chocolate toward the finish. Smooth and quite seductive, this will drink well for the next decade.”
89-91 points, Neal Martin, Vinous
“The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Ma Cuvée is pure and demonstrative, offering up aromas of orange oil, petals and raspberries, followed by a medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy palate. Readers may remember that its suave style reflects its origins in the southern part of the appellation, as opposed to the more robust wines from the northern part of Gevrey that go into Mortet's Cinq Terroirs bottling for the family domaine.”
89-91 points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
“From the southern part of Gevrey. 40% whole bunch vinification, and 15-20% new wood. Mid crimson ruby. Generous strawberry fruit up front, darker behind on the palate, fine acidity, plenty of energy all the way through to the finish. This is a lovely example. Drink from 2028-2033.”
90-92 points, Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy
Arnaud Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin Ma Cuvée 2023 (1500ml)
$768.00
Added
Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Champonnets 2023
$720.00
Added

Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Champonnets 2023

Hailing from one of Gevrey-Chambertin’s most refined Premier Cru sites, Mortet’s Les Champonnets expresses the deep soils of its site in compelling fashion. Vinified with 50% whole bunches on a quarter new oak.

“A lovely fresh ruby colour. The bouquet is very suave, in a lifted fresh red fruit. The Champonnets seems understated until the exceptional concentration of striking red cherries emerges, along with a light salinity to finish. Drink from 2030-2037.”
93-95 points, Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy
Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Champonnets 2023
$720.00
Added
Domaine Denis Mortet Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 2023
$1,885.00
Added

Domaine Denis Mortet Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 2023

Although Mortet’s 0.32 hectares of vines are in the lower part of this historic vineyard, they are some of the oldest (more than 60 years) and most fastidiously farmed vines in the entire clos. Mortet has always produced one of the vineyard’s finest wines (other growers admit as much), with an intensely floral and Musigny-like style. The 2023 is immensely powerful and hedonistic, comfortably soaking up its (almost) 50% new oak.

“The 2023 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru includes around 40% whole bunch, as the bunches were larger this year. Boasting wonderful delineation and precision, it has a lifted bouquet with dark berry fruit, hints of brown spices and blackcurrant leaf. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-boned tannins. Linear, focused and tensile from start to finish, there is a touch of piquancy toward the finish. Outstanding.”
94-96 points, Neal Martin, Vinous
“The 2023 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru is round and charming, exhibiting aromas of plums, sweet red berries, orange and cinnamon, followed by a medium to full-bodied, supple and fleshy palate. This grand cru may have the reputation for structure and austerity, but this particular wine wears its heart on its sleeve.”
91-93 points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
“One third classic whole bunch vinification and less than half new wood. Bigger grapes here were less suited to pedicel treatment. An even crimson. A little less concentrated than my favourite Gevrey cuvées. The oak behind is well judged in support and there is a rich red cherry burst and excellent length. No rustic tannins here, or anywhere in this cellar. Drink from 2030-2037.”
93-96 points, Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy
Domaine Denis Mortet Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 2023
$1,885.00
Added
Arnaud Mortet Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 2023
$3,619.00
Added

Arnaud Mortet Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 2023

The Chambertin-Clos de Bèze is the only négoce wine in the portfolio, but it comes from an excellent grower whom Arnaud tells us works to his high standards. From vines pushing 80 years old, one third of the fruit was whole bunch (pedicels only), and just under a quarter new oak was used. An incredible wine.

“The 2023 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru has a delightful bouquet with red cherries and wild strawberry fruit, light peppery notes and a touch of incense, a little more exotic but not too much! The palate is medium-bodied and finely delineated with black cherries and cassis fruit. It is quite refined with a slightly confit-like finish. Very fine.”
92-94 points, Neal Martin, Vinous
Arnaud Mortet Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 2023
$3,619.00
Added
Domaine Denis Mortet Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Aux Beaux Bruns 2023
$817.00
Added

Domaine Denis Mortet Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Aux Beaux Bruns 2023

At just 0.22 hectares, Beaux Bruns is Mortet’s smallest parcel, save for Le Chambertin. Our allocation is, therefore, tiny as always. While its name is evocative (the beautiful browns), the original meaning seems to have been lost. It may well refer to the brown clothing of the Cistercian monks who once farmed here. It’s certainly not the soil; facing east on the lower part of the village, the soil here is white marl with plenty of limestone, yet it also has good depth of clay—a key to this wine’s texture. The 2023 was vinified with 80% whole bunch (hand-destemmed).

“The 2023 Chambolle-Musigny Aux Beaux Bruns 1er Cru comes from a warm mesoclimate and was vinified with 80% whole bunch with the central stem removed. This has a clean, precise and focused bouquet with cranberry and wild strawberry fruit, hints of undergrowth manifesting with time in the glass. Taut and fresh, the palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, a core of sensual red berry fruit and lovely mineralité on the persistent finish. Quintessential Chambolle-Musigny.”
93-95 points, Neal Martin, Vinous
“The 2023 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Aux Beaux Bruns exhibits notes of sweet red berries, orange zest, spices and rose petals, followed by a medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy plate, concluding with a licorice-inflected finish. This early-ripening site has put in a strong performance this year.”
91-93 points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
“Made in pedicel fashion. Mid crimson to ruby, quite discreet on the nose, darker fruit with a slightly rougher edge though the black cherries are very attractive, especially in the very long finish. Drink from 2029-2035.”
91-94 points, Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy
Domaine Denis Mortet Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Aux Beaux Bruns 2023
$817.00
Added
Arnaud Mortet Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru 2023
$2,163.00
Added

Arnaud Mortet Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru 2023

Arnaud’s 0.2 hectares of very old vines are well-situated, close to Griotte-Chambertin, on red soil with lots of pebbles and high active chalk content. The winemaking is very similar to the Mazoyères-Chambertin, albeit with a touch less new oak. There was a lot of millerandage (hen and chicken) here, so many tiny berries. Arnaud and his team hand-destemmed over half the fruit. Arnaud’s Charmes is often more red-fruited and spicier than Mazoyères. It brings plenty of red cherry aromas and flavours, whilst maintaining the opulence of classical Charmes and the vibrant, sweet, floral fruit this vineyard is famed for.

“The 2023 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru comes from the north part of the vineyard. It was vinified with 80% whole bunches, with the central stem removed from each cluster. This has a floral bouquet of violet and iris flower, very pure and sensual. The palate is medium-bodied with a cashmere texture that disguises the backbone underneath. Lightly spiced with hints of clove and white pepper, it gently fans out on the persistent finish. Excellent.”
94-96 points, Neal Martin, Vinous
“The 2023 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru exhibits notes of cherries, raspberries, rose petals and wintergreen, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and fleshy palate built around powdery tannins and juicy acids.”
91-93 points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
“Bright ruby to crimson. The Mazoyères is a little bit restrained on the nose, but compensates for that on the palate with a wealth of dark red berry fruit, and a slight mineral crunch. Disciplined throughout. Drink from 2030-2038.”
93-96 points, Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy
Arnaud Mortet Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru 2023
$2,163.00
Added
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AT-A-GLANCE

• Domaine Denis Mortet is a family domaine of great note established by Charles Mortet in 1956 in Gevrey-Chambertin.

• Since 2006, the estate has been in the talented hands of third-generation Arnaud Mortet, with his mother Laurence and sister Clémence.

• Today, the estate spans approximately 16 hectares of vines across Gevrey-Chambertin, Chambolle-Musigny, Clos de Vougeot, Echezeaux, Bonnes Mares, Mazis-Chambertin, Marsannay and Fixin.

• Viticulture is mostly organic, soils are ploughed infrequently to preserve soil structure, grass cover is encouraged, and trimming is done with shears.

• Some whole bunches are retained, otherwise destemming is done by hand to preserve whole berries, and the use of new wood is low.

• The range includes Bourgogne, Village, 1er Cru and Grand Cru wines.

• The wines are in high demand and are sold on allocation.



IN THE PRESS

“Mortet’s wines are often spellbinding creations, thrilling wines that instantly seduce with their seamless texture, filigree tannins and beguiling purity of fruit.” Neal Martin, Vinous 

“The wines are undeniably lovely, with the flesh and charm to drink well in their youth but the concentration and satiny structure to age. They're also impressively consistent. If Mortet can sustain the viticultural attention to detail that was his father's calling card across the entire breadth of his growing palette of appellations, then this domaine's position among the greats of the Côte de Nuits will be assured.” William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

Country

France

Primary Region

Côte de Nuits

People

Winemaker: Arnaud Mortet

Availability

National

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