Clos Larrouyat

Pristine Organic Whites from France’s South West

Our long, drawn-out search for a second Jurançon Domaine came to an emphatic end in March 2021 when we came across a young producer celebrating just its 10th anniversary. Clos Larrouyat is a tiny, family-run Domaine with pristine mineral whites that are the first to hold a torch to the quality and style of the wines we have tasted from Benjamin Dagueneau’s Jurançon outpost, Les Jardins de Babylon. The three-hectare Domaine lies in Gan in the commune of La Chapelle de Rousse. Just south of Pau, it’s a beautiful town well-known to lovers of the Tour de France as the staging post to the Pyrenees, with its panorama-dominating skyline.

After graduating from Bordeaux (where he studied under the learned Denis Dubourdieu), in 2011 Maxime Salharang and his wife Lucie began planting their vineyard on a block of land belonging to Maxime’s grandfather. The terroir here is some of Jurançon’s most interesting and sits on a rare band of Triassic limestone that runs through this part of the appellation. Atop the limestone bedrock lies a blanket of poudingue, a mixture of clay with chalk, crushed pebbles and large galets stones—the legacy of the nearby Ossau Valley.

Jurançon’s Petit Manseng forms the lion’s share of the plantings, followed by Gros Manseng and the rare, underused Camaralet; all planted on sheltered, east-facing slopes in the coolest part of the appellation. Paul Strang has written [in South-West France: The Wines and Winemakers] “The wines from this area are said to be more minerally and lively, to have what the French call toupet, real nerve.” This observation is certainly borne out in Salharang’s strikingly bright wines, which seldom ripen to 13° potential.

Sitting on a rare band of Triassic limestone that runs through their part of the appellation, Larrouyat’s terroir here is one of Jurançon’s most interesting. The dry wines are bursting with energy and vim, with crystalline drive and mouth-wateringly salty length.

Certified organic, Maxime and Lucie’s farming borrows elements from biodynamics to achieve harmony in the local ecosystem. Natural grasses left between the rows soak up excess moisture and force the young vines’ roots deep towards the bedrock; a flock of Pyrenean sheep helps with the weeding and promotes soil health.

In the cellar, fermentations are wild, and the wines are raised in old oak barrels (purchased from Smith-Haut Lafitte). In cooler years, Salharang stirs the lees to promote depth and texture. The wines always pass through malo, which is needed to balance the extraordinary acidity gained in this cool terroir. Added sulphur is kept under 40 mg/L and the wines are seldom fined before bottling. This three-hectare Domaine only makes 1,000 cases of wine a year, so our allocations are never going to be large.

Kermit Lynch has stolen our thunder by noting: “the small but historic Jurançon appellation… is perhaps not where one would expect to find racy, mineral-infused white wines that have more in common with Chablis than with other southern whites.” You could also add the very finest Muscadet by way of comparison. The dry wines are bursting with energy and vim, with crystalline drive and compelling rocky characters. Meanwhile, the estate’s moelleux is really anything but—moelleux means ‘marrow’ and refers to the unctuous, fatty texture of Jurançon’s sweet wines—Larrouyat’s Phoenix is a more delicate and uplifting manifestation of this famous wine style.

The Range

Clos Larrouyat Jurançon Sec Météore 2022
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Clos Larrouyat Jurançon Sec Météore 2022

Météore is this domaine’s core wine and is a 60:40 blend of Gros and Petit Manseng rooted in the soils of Gan in the commune of La Chapelle de Rousse. The terroir here is some of Jurançon’s most austere and sits on a rare band of Triassic limestone. Atop the limestone bedrock lies a blanket of poudingue, a mixture of clay with chalk, crushed pebbles and large galet stones—the legacy of the nearby Ossau Valley. In the tiny cellar, no larger than a medium-sized garage, the grapes are pressed as whole bunches and ferment naturally in stainless steel before aging in used oak barrels from Pessac-Léognan. Brimming with the energy the Salharangs bring to this remote corner of southwest France, it’s a layered yet compact white with a swathe of juicy texture flecked by notes of tarragon, pollen and orange rind and a mouth-wateringly succulent, mineral-infected finish.

“In Météore 2022, the gros manseng, still under the influence of wood during its tasting, also presents a fair balance and a precision which reveals the salinity of the soil.”
92 points, La Revue du Vin de France
“2022 was a challenging year at Clos Larrouyat: after the hail on June 20th, there were four heat waves during the year, according to Maxime Salharang. The 2022 Météore, a blend of 40% Petit Manseng and 60% Gros Manseng, reveals a brilliant, pure and complex bouquet with aromas of white flowers, spring flowers, jasmine, menthol and pear. Medium to full-bodied, chiseled and energetic, it’s layered and textural with bright acids and a long, mineral and saline finish.”
91 points, Yohan Castaing, The Wine Advocate
Clos Larrouyat Jurançon Sec Météore 2022
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Clos Larrouyat Jurançon Sec Comète 2022
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Clos Larrouyat Jurançon Sec Comète 2022

Comète is a blend of 75% Petit Manseng and 25% Camaralet. The latter variety is hardly seen in Jurançon vineyards today, although it speaks volumes that many of the appellation’s more progressive domaines are invested. Maxime and Lucie Salharang’s Camaralet (which covers 10% of the vineyard) brings spicy/citrus cut to the juicier Manseng. The Manseng itself is drawn from a small canton of the vineyards facing southwest. Salharang explains that these vines deliver more power, and he uses only the first press juices that bring the most purity and finesse. In the cellar, fermentation is spontaneous, and the wines are raised in old oak barrels (purchased from Smith-Haut Lafitte). In cooler years, Maxime stirs his lees to promote depth and texture. The wines always pass through malolactic conversion, which is needed to balance the extraordinary acidity gained in this cool terroir. Added sulphur is kept under 40 mg/L, and the wines are seldom fined before bottling. The 2022 is the most potent Comète we have yet shipped, yet even so, there’s a refreshing spine of racy freshness offsetting the wine’s grainy texture and juicy orange and white peach-scented fruit. Unfortunately, we have very little.

“The 2022 vintage of Comète sticks to both the warm vintage and the terroir, the acidity is perfect, the salinity jovial and the balance remarkable, the coldness of the exposure gives the wine all its tonicity.”
94 points, La Revue du Vins de France
“Instantly brilliant in the glass, the 2022 Comète, a blend of 75% Petit Manseng and 25% Camaralet, reveals a pure bouquet of spices, menthol, ripe orchard fruits and spring flowers. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and sappy, it possesses a delicate core of fruit with a saline, mineral finish enhanced by racy bitterness. This wine is eminently suitable for gastronomic purposes, but it will benefit from three to five years of cellaring before revealing its full potential.”
92 points, Yohan Castaing, The Wine Advocate
Clos Larrouyat Jurançon Sec Comète 2022
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Country

France

Primary Region

Jurançon

People

Winemakers: Maxime & Lucie Salharang

Availability

National

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