Champagne Bérêche et Fils

Le Craon de Ludes, Montagne de Reims

It’s been almost 10 years since we first met Vincent and Raphaël Bérêche. The memory sticks in the mind, not only for the striking quality of the wines we tasted. It was one of the few times we had arrived early for an appointment, and both the brothers were out in the vineyards dealing with the consequences of the grisly late-spring weather. After 15 minutes, Raphaël Bérêche rocked up in his tractor, hands covered in dirt and humbly apologetic for his workman-like appearance. Sometimes, you just feel it in your bones; we knew instantly that this was our kind of grower.

Among the producers in our portfolio, Bérêche lies closest to Egly-Ouriet in the Montagne de Reims. The core of its 11 hectares falls in the 1er Cru village of Ludes, a pretty town with excellent soils sheltered by the dense woods of the Montagne. Ludes is sandwiched between Rilly-la-Montagne and Chigny-les-Roses to the west and the Grand Cru of Mailly-Champagne to the east. Bérêche owns small sites in all three of these villages, as well as a parcel of old vines in Trépail. Still in the Montagne, there’s a soupçon of Ambonnay, while in Vallée de la Marne, they work in Aÿ and Mareuil-le-Port, which specialises in Meunier. Together, they farm 20 parcels, and their holdings are complemented by almost academic volumes of fruit purchased from Cramant and Avize in the Côte des Blancs.

The domaine’s history goes as far back as 1847, but it wasn’t until 2004, when brothers Vincent and Raphaël Bérêche began working with their father, Jean-Pierre, that it really started to shine. Inspired by growers like Pascal Agrapart, the siblings immediately began ringing the changes in the search for higher quality. Although there is no official delineation in the brothers’ day-to-day work, you will most likely find Vincent Bérêche in the vines. The quality starts with thoughtful viticulture and low yields, and they benefit from a high percentage of old vines—many planted in the 1960s and ’70s. Upon their arrival, the brothers were among the first in the Montagne to abandon chemical herbicides, returning instead to the labour-intensive manual cultivation of their vines.

Vincent is aided by a team of 11 full-time employees—allowing for around one hectare per person. This is a figure you might expect from a very top Burgundy domaine. By any measure, the work is fastidious and includes restricting yields and ploughing between the rows and the vines. Organic and biodynamic farming methods encourage soil and vine health, and this remains one of few estates in Champagne that perpetuates the work of mass selection from its old vines.

Where Vincent is the quiet one, Raphaël Bérêche is the ‘face’ of the domaine. Not only a marvellous winemaker unafraid to experiment and take risks, he is also sharp as a tack and one of grower Champagne’s most charismatic and outspoken evangelists. “Raphaël Bérêche is young, but his sheer enthusiasm and conviction will likely take him far,” was Antonio Galloni’s astute observation back in 2012. Terres et Vins, the tasting group he founded with Aurélien Laherte, is one of the hottest tickets in town—as well it might be, counting the likes of Agrapart and Chartogne-Taillet among its members. Importantly, this group was the first, and remains one of the few, to show their vin clairs (the still base wines before bubbles enter the story) to the trade each year. This kind of transparency is still almost unheard of in Champagne.

The functional cellar reflects a minimalist aesthetic focused on traditional winemaking. Bérêche employs long, natural fermentations, and critically, due to the low pH and high acidity of the grapes, the wines naturally don’t go through malolactic fermentation. Each parcel is vinified separately, which makes it possible to taste the various parcels from barrel or tank just after the harvest, just like in Burgundy. Three-quarters of the production spends time in used 350-litre barrels, while the reserve wines are held in 600-litre demi-muids. Bottling occurs without filtration. Bérêche is also noted for its extended lees aging under cork, necessitating at least three years in the cellar, where 24 months can be sufficient under crown seal*.

Our aforementioned appointment took place back in 2016. Even then, the brothers’ rocky, tension-fuelled Champagnes had already positioned Bérêche as one of the hottest names in the best wine bars of Paris and Champagne. Fast forward to 2024, and Bérêche has had to close its book to new clients, both private and trade. The commentary at the top of this offer points to how far the brothers have come in a relatively short time. Dense and textured yet savoury and taut, the wines have been among the region’s most vinous and exciting for many years. Today, they are more precise and elegant than ever. The top wines are stunning and comfortably stand up to—and in most cases blow away—the region’s best-known prestige cuvées, while the compact, laser-focused Brut Reserve lives up to its ‘rockstar’ billing. If you are a Champagne lover and don’t know these wines, you are missing out.

* The back label of each bottle of Bérêche contains the phrase, ‘prise de mousse sous liège’. This old method of aging each wine under cork instead of a crown seal largely died out with the arrival of new technology in the 1950s. Aging under cork is far more time-consuming and considerably more expensive—and also requires the highest-grade ‘Fleur’ cork—yet has become a key component of the quality and style of this grower’s wines. Aging under cork “gives more complex, less linear wines”, says Raphaël Bérêche, “The texture of the mousse is creamier, and the wine has more breadth. We have been working this way for 30 years, and the cork has a real impact. Blind tasting, it always comes out the best.” Having carried out his own experiments since the early 1990s, Pascal Agrapart works in the same way. He believes this method allows slightly more oxygen to get to the wine during the second fermentation, resulting in Champagnes with finer bubbles and seamless texture. “It’s a bit like the difference between vinification in stainless steel or barrels.”

The Range

Champagne Bérêche et Fils  Brut Réserve Vieilles Vignes Non Filtrée NV (Base 19. Disg. Jan 2023) (3000ml)
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Champagne Bérêche et Fils Brut Réserve Vieilles Vignes Non Filtrée NV (Base 19. Disg. Jan 2023) (3000ml)

This cuvée has become synonymous with the kind of extreme quality that can today be expected from Champagne’s finest within the younger generation. The current release is based on the 2020 vintage and was disgorged in July 2023. Like its predecessor, the release comprises 65% fruit from the base vintage with the balance from the two previous years. The blend is split between 35% Pinot Noir from Montagne de Reims (specifically Ludes, Trépail and Ormes), 35% Chardonnay from sites across Montagne de Reims and Vallée de la Marne, and 30% Meunier from Mareuil-le-Port in Vallée de la Marne. The average vine age is 40 years.The fruit is hand-harvested, followed by natural yeast fermentation in barrel, 24-36 months sur lattes in the Bérêche cellar, and finally, disgorgement by hand with just under 6 g/L dosage. This is the kind of fastidious attention to detail you would expect from the finest prestige cuvées, and it shines through in the quality of the wine. Antonio Galloni (Vinous) is spot-on when he writes: “Although most readers probably associate Bérèche with some of their higher-end bottlings, the Brut Réserve is a real rock star.” Simply, it’s one of the most compelling introductions to elite grower Champagne on the market.

“The NV Brut Réserve (magnum) is gorgeous. Rich and opulent, the 2019 base captures the natural opulence of the year in its soft curves and engaging personality. Dried pear, crushed flowers, spice and light hazelnut notes. Brut Réserve in magnum is always one of my favorite wines at Bérêche, as it is a hidden gem in the range."
93 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
“Bursting with aromas of orange oil, crisp orchard fruit and fresh bread, it's medium to full-bodied, fleshy and gourmand, with tangy acids and an enveloping, pillowy profile.”
92 points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
Champagne Bérêche et Fils  Brut Réserve Vieilles Vignes Non Filtrée NV (Base 19. Disg. Jan 2023) (3000ml)
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Champagne Bérêche et Fils Brut Réserve Vieilles Vignes Non Filtrée NV (Base 19. Disg Sep 2023) (1500ml)
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Champagne Bérêche et Fils Brut Réserve Vieilles Vignes Non Filtrée NV (Base 19. Disg Sep 2023) (1500ml)

This cuvée has become synonymous with the kind of extreme quality that can today be expected from Champagne’s finest within the younger generation. The current release is based on the 2020 vintage and was disgorged in July 2023. Like its predecessor, the release comprises 65% fruit from the base vintage with the balance from the two previous years. The blend is split between 35% Pinot Noir from Montagne de Reims (specifically Ludes, Trépail and Ormes), 35% Chardonnay from sites across Montagne de Reims and Vallée de la Marne, and 30% Meunier from Mareuil-le-Port in Vallée de la Marne. The average vine age is 40 years. The fruit is hand-harvested, followed by natural yeast fermentation in barrel, 24-36 months sur lattes in the Bérêche cellar, and finally, disgorgement by hand with just under 6 g/L dosage. This is the kind of fastidious attention to detail you would expect from the finest prestige cuvées, and it shines through in the quality of the wine. Antonio Galloni (Vinous) is spot-on when he writes: “Although most readers probably associate Bérèche with some of their higher-end bottlings, the Brut Réserve is a real rock star.” Simply, it’s one of the most compelling introductions to elite grower Champagne on the market.

“The NV Brut Réserve (magnum) is gorgeous. Rich and opulent, the 2019 base captures the natural opulence of the year in its soft curves and engaging personality. Dried pear, crushed flowers, spice and light hazelnut notes. Brut Réserve in magnum is always one of my favorite wines at Bérêche, as it is a hidden gem in the range. Dosage is 5 grams per liter. Disgorged: November 2022.”
93 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Champagne Bérêche et Fils Brut Réserve Vieilles Vignes Non Filtrée NV (Base 19. Disg Sep 2023) (1500ml)
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Champagne Bérêche et Fils Brut Réserve Vieilles Vignes Non Filtrée NV (Base 20. Disg Dec 2022)
Added

Champagne Bérêche et Fils Brut Réserve Vieilles Vignes Non Filtrée NV (Base 20. Disg Dec 2022)

This cuvée has become synonymous with the kind of extreme quality that can today be expected from Champagne’s finest estates. The current release is based on the 2020 vintage and was disgorged in July 2023. Like its predecessors, the release comprises 65% fruit from the base vintage, with the balance from the two previous years. The blend is split between 35% Pinot Noir from Montagne de Reims (specifically Ludes, Trépail and Ormes), 35% Chardonnay from sites across Montagne de Reims and Vallée de la Marne and 30% Meunier from Mareuil-le-Port in Vallée de la Marne. Ludes and Trépail provide the tension, offsetting the depth and texture of the Marne fruit and reserve wines. The average vine age is 40 years.The hard-harvested fruit ferments naturally in barrel before aging in barrel and tank. After bottling, the wine spends 36 months sur lattes in the Bérêche cellar, and finally, disgorgement by hand (!) with just under 6 g/L dosage. This is the kind of fastidious attention to detail you would expect from the finest prestige cuvées, and it shines through in the quality of the wine. Antonio Galloni (Vinous) is spot-on when he writes: “Although most readers probably associate Bérêche with some of their higher-end bottlings, the Brut Réserve is a real rock star.” The style is taut and focused; the wine’s natural density and texture are superbly balanced by crystalline acidity and smoky mineral resonance. Simply, it’s one of the most compelling introductions to elite grower Champagne on the market.

“The NV Brut Réserve is bright and finely sculpted right out of the glass. There's terrific purity and energy running through the Brut Réserve. Crushed red berry fruit, white pepper, crushed rocks and mint all race out of the glass. This release is based on 2020, with a good bit of reserve wine (35%) that serves to create terrific balance. The 5.5 grams of dosage is not at all felt. Disgorged: December 2022.”
92 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Champagne Bérêche et Fils Brut Réserve Vieilles Vignes Non Filtrée NV (Base 20. Disg Dec 2022)
Added
Champagne Bérêche et Fils Brut Réserve Vieilles Vignes Non Filtrée NV (Base 20. Disg Jul 2023)
Added

Champagne Bérêche et Fils Brut Réserve Vieilles Vignes Non Filtrée NV (Base 20. Disg Jul 2023)

This cuvée has become synonymous with the kind of extreme quality that can today be expected from Champagne’s finest within the younger generation. The current release is based on the 2020 vintage and was disgorged in July 2023. Like its predecessor, the release comprises 65% fruit from the base vintage with the balance from the two previous years. The blend is split between 35% Pinot Noir from Montagne de Reims (specifically Ludes, Trépail and Ormes), 35% Chardonnay from sites across Montagne de Reims and Vallée de la Marne, and 30% Meunier from Mareuil-le-Port in Vallée de la Marne. The average vine age is 40 years. The fruit is hand-harvested, followed by natural yeast fermentation in barrel, 24-36 months sur lattes in the Bérêche cellar, and finally, disgorgement by hand with just under 6 g/L dosage. This is the kind of fastidious attention to detail you would expect from the finest prestige cuvées, and it shines through in the quality of the wine. Antonio Galloni (Vinous) is spot-on when he writes: “Although most readers probably associate Bérèche with some of their higher-end bottlings, the Brut Réserve is a real rock star.” Simply, it’s one of the most compelling introductions to elite grower Champagne on the market.

“The NV Brut Réserve is bright and finely sculpted right out of the glass. There's terrific purity and energy running through the Brut Réserve. Crushed red berry fruit, white pepper, crushed rocks and mint all race out of the glass. This release is based on 2020, with a good bit of reserve wine (35%) that serves to create terrific balance. The 5.5 grams of dosage is not at all felt.”
92 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Champagne Bérêche et Fils Brut Réserve Vieilles Vignes Non Filtrée NV (Base 20. Disg Jul 2023)
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Champagne Bérêche et Fils Grand Cru Aӱ 2015 (Disg. Oct 2022)
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Champagne Bérêche et Fils Grand Cru Aӱ 2015 (Disg. Oct 2022)

Champagne authority Peter Liem writes that “among all Champagne villages, Aӱ is the most historically esteemed… Today, its terroir is still just as storied, and its grapes are sought after by winemakers across the region.” Generally speaking, it’s a warmer terrain, and though the Bérêche vines sit at higher, cooler altitudes, they are fully exposed to the sunnier south. From a Grand Cru where Pinot Noir reigns supreme, Bérêche’s cuvée is sourced from less than a hectare of 50+-year-old vines in the parcels of Brise Pot and Froide Terre in Grande Vallée de la Marne, where thin topsoils (30cm at most) lie over dense Campanian chalk. The lion’s share of the blend is Pinot Noir from Froide, with the balance Chardonnay from Brise Pot. Both parcels were picked on 14th September at 10.8% potential alcohol, “in perfect health”, according to the brothers. As is the norm, slow ferments took place in barrel, and the wine spent 72 months on lees in bottle. Dosage was 4 g/L.

“The 2015 Extra-Brut Aÿ Grand Cru captures all the richness of Aÿ and of this dry, sunny vintage. Racy and exuberant, the 2015 offers up an exciting mix of crushed red berry fruit, lemon confit, ginger, cinnamon and dried rose petals. The Aÿ is a blend of Pinot Noir from Froide-Terre and Chardonnay from Brise-Pot, co-fermented, with the Chardonnay lending notable freshness. That is especially evident on the lively finish. Dosage is 4 grams per liter. Disgorged: July 2022.”
94 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Champagne Bérêche et Fils Grand Cru Aӱ 2015 (Disg. Oct 2022)
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Champagne Bérêche et Fils Grand Cru Mailly-Champagne Blanc de Noirs 2017 (Disg. Jul 2022)
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Champagne Bérêche et Fils Grand Cru Mailly-Champagne Blanc de Noirs 2017 (Disg. Jul 2022)

The Bérêche brothers purchased this magnificent plot in 2011. It’s the estate’s first and most prized Grand Cru. Situated between Ludes and Verzenay in Montagne de Reims, Mailly’s chalky subsoil and predominance of north-facing slopes bring out a unique mineral freshness in Pinot Noir. Vincent and Raphaël are no strangers to Mailly; previously, as much as 70% of their Montagne cuvée was drawn from this Grand Cru. Raphaël describes his decision to jump on the offer of a 0.4-hectare parcel of 60-year-old Pinot Fin vines rooted in the rich clay and chalk of the Les Chalois vineyard as the easiest of his life. The wine was vinified with indigenous yeasts in oak barrels up to 600 litres in size. It spent 48 months under cork before disgorgement. The dosage was 3 g/L. This wine is the only independent bottling of the Mailly Grand Cru we have come across, and it gives us a taste of what we have been missing. In style, it’s an incisive and super-pure Champagne with an array of flavours stretching out over citrus oil, stone fruit and herbal notes, as well as a distinctive aniseed/liquorice note.

“The 2017 Extra-Brut Blanc de Noirs Mailly Grand Cru is racy, exuberant and full of character. Intense Pinot notes scream out of the glass in this exotic yet beautifully balanced Champagne. Red berry fruit, spice, kirsch, mint, dried flowers and anise build effortlessly. The purity of the flavors is quite striking. This is a fabulous showing in a very tough year. With air, the 2017 is wonderfully delicate and hugely appealing. Dosage is 3 grams per liter. Disgorged: July 2022.”
93 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Champagne Bérêche et Fils Grand Cru Mailly-Champagne Blanc de Noirs 2017 (Disg. Jul 2022)
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“In the village of Ludes in the Northern portion of the Montagne de Reims, brothers Raphaël and Vincent Bérêche are quietly crafting sophisticated, terroir-expressive champagnes that are poised to rival the region’s best.” Peter Liem, Champagne

“I've been following the wines of brothers Vincent and Raphaël Bérêche since my student days, and it's been thrilling to watch them go from strength to strength." William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

“Brothers Raphaël and Vincent Bérêche have made the family domaine, which dates back to 1847, into one of Champagne’s bright lights with an emphasis on organic and biodynamic farming and structure-building winemaking that leads to wines of power and substance held together by fine balance.Rajat Parr and Jordan Mackay, The Sommeliers Atlas of Taste

“My tasting at Bérêche was one of the highlights of the week I spent in Champagne. Quite frankly, the wines have never been better. Bérêche is among the grower estates that have made a huge leap in both quality and consistency in recent years. Everything feels elevated here of late, as readers will see in gleaning through the notes. Chapeau.” Antonio Galloni, Vinous

Country

France

Primary Region

Champagne

People

Winemakers: Vincent and Raphaël Bérêche

Availability

National

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