Vinous Wine of the Year 2024
A true Napa legend, the Philip Togni estate vineyard lies in the remote Spring Mountain District AVA, on the western side of the Napa Valley. Sitting on the eastern slope of the Mayacamas Range, it’s the coolest and wettest region in the valley, partly due to its proximity to the Pacific Ocean (50 kilometres) and San Pablo Bay (40 kilometres). The east-facing, organic, dry-farmed 10-hectare Togni plot lies high up on the mountain itself, above the fog line at just over 600 metres. Mirroring Château Margaux, the vineyard is planted with 82% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Merlot, with the balance comprising Cabernet Franc (2%) and Petit Verdot (1%). The make-up of the wines reflects these plantings. It’s a steeply terraced site, home to old vines (33 years on average) in rocky soils of weathered sandstone and shale.
An essence of old-school classicism, the style of wine here hinges on elegance, refined structure and great ageability. Yields are kept low, and canopies are managed diligently to ensure full ripeness is reached at low alcohols. The Togni family pick early to preserve natural freshness, and the grapes are co-fermented to reinforce and heighten the expression of the site. In the winery, the grapes are sorted, gently destemmed, crushed, and cold soaked for three days. After 20 days’ co-fermenting, the wine was pressed to French oak (40% new Taransaud and Nadalie) where it aged for 20 months before bottling.