Biodynamic. Hélène Thibon’s small-batch white comes from a blend of low-cropped, hand-harvested Roussanne, Viognier and old vine Clairette planted in the 1940s. For freshness, there’s even a little Vermentino and Chenin blended in these days. The Clairette and Roussanne are raised in Stockinger cask after a brief maceration on skins for tang and structure.
The latest release is another example of how sophisticated the whites from this part of France can be in the right hands. It’s a wonderfully aromatic release, full of yellow florals and orchard fruit aromas and a pulpy, refreshing mouthfeel sporting food-friendly savoury notes and grip on the juicy, whistle-clean finish. Lovely stuff. Hélène Thibon suggests serving this with “chèvre, fleshier cheese, or classic Mediterranean fish dishes. This is a white wine that can hold its own against a bit of garlic (though don’t get carried away).” From experience, we’ll throw terrine and grilled fish into the mix. Bon appétit.