Organic. This is Pibarnon’s top wine, and one of the great ‘mountain Bandols’. It’s a blend of 90% Mourvèdre and 10% Grenache drawn from the estate’s high-altitude restanques. The altitude, the influence of the sea and the limestone/clay soils all bring a freshness and purity that is rare among Mediterranean reds.
This cuvée is based only on the fruit of the oldest vines and finest terraces of Château de Pibarnon, including Bel-Air, La Grande Paguette, La Falaise, Les Pointes Blanches, Le Col and Les Dolmens. Pibarnon’s rouge has always been a wine of finesse, and in recent years the style has been evolving further, becoming ever more refined. Under the young chef de culture Éric Schladenhaufen, the organic and biodynamic vineyard management has progressed, while in the cellar, cellarmaster Marie Laroze avoids winemaking artifice, working only with wild yeasts, large-format oak, low sulphur and micro-batching based on terroir.
The current vintage was fermented with indigenous yeasts in concrete tanks—with approximately 25% whole bunches retained to lift the aromas—then aged in a mix of new and used oak foudres (larger vats) for 20 months.
The 2021 has a balance and youthful drinkability that is rare for such an age worthy wine; but it also has more than adequate stuffing. It’s a super-bright and juicy Mediterranean red with lively, wild berry compote fruit, loads of fresh sage and tarragon notes and some meaty, charcuterie characters. It’s deep yet fresh and vibrant with a driven, iodine-rich finish. A superb Mediterranean red from a producer that is a joy to represent.