First produced in 2013, this idiosyncratic, pulpy, saline white is made from Spain's indigenous Malvar grape. The fruit is drawn from a tiny, 0.44-hectare plot of old, bush vines rooted in the chalky clay soils of Valdilecha in the Madrid mountains, some 730 metres above sea level. Both here and at Bernabeleva, Isart plays a key role in the resuscitation of this variety.
Organic/biodynamic cultivation, meagre yields and old school (very old school!) fermentation with skins and stalks for 50 days are the keys to this delicious, fascinating and very fairly priced white. Aging that included crushed skins and stalks was the traditional way that Spanish farmers made their wines and this just works with Malvar. Following pressing, the maturation occurred in old 300-litre casks.