Again, the step up here is one of power rather than just sweetness. Riper and more intense is a more accurate way of describing what’s happening. The style remains pure and ultra-fine, and while the Spätlese wines revel in juicy intensity, this bracket offers more power, flesh, complexity and length. These wines can sometimes be tricky to understand fully when young—not so for the fruit-forward 2023s; they already have the wow factor. Again, there is a big step up in intensity, and the difference between the vineyards shines through even more.
With such finesse, delicacy and digestibility, these wines are typically too delicate for sweet desserts (although they can work with light, fruit-based dishes that are not overly sweet). Match them with whatever works for you, but don’t forget that this level can work very well with savoury food, matching superbly to pork, game birds, savoury tarts, roast chicken, ceviche, sausage, and venison. They are also brilliant with almost all Japanese and Chinese dishes and terrific with a wide range of cheeses. Spice and fruit-based sauces do not worry them!